Rolleiflex 2.8 A Type 2 version 2 help identify

[golfpro1518]

Hello. I am new to this forum and seeking the expertise of anyone that can help me to properly identify the camera I have. This is passed down in the family sadly I don't know much about cameras. With the photos below can anyone properly identify this for me and then assist in the following questions.
Price range ?
Worth paying to see if it works before selling? What would that cost?
It sat in its leather case for a long time is the damaged case of value ?
Any other insights or things you feel could help is greatly appreciated. Link to pictures of it below. Thank you!

Album — Postimages

postimg.cc

 

[RezaLoghme]

Account Suspended

This should help identifying the correct model designation.

As for market value, I always consult Ebay's "Sold items" function to see the hammer prices instead of the asking prices.

 

[JPD]

Yes, you are correct that it's the 2.8A, type 2.

Open the viewing hood and look through the viewing lens to see if the mirror looks ok or if the silvering has flaked off in places.

You can easily test the shutter by rotating the crank to cock the shutter and then press the shutter release. A good idea is to start by testing the faster shutter speeds first. You can start by 1/250 and then 1/100, then 1/50 and so on down to 1 sec. The escapement for the slower speeds kick in at 1/10, so by starting at the faster speeds and going down you'll "massage" the mechanisms in the shutter so the slowest speeds will be a little less likely to stick.

The fastest shutter speed is 1/500, but I'm not sure if you have to set this speed before cocking the shutter on the early Synchro-Compur, or if it's only the case for the older Compur-Rapid shutter, so it's safest to just start testing the shutter at 1/250. It's been a while since I looked into this, and perhaps someone else here knows more.

Slow or sticky slower speeds are common for a leaf shutter this old that hasn't been serviced in a long while. Sometimes the shutter blades refuse to close properly. Sometimes the shutter fires at the same speed regardless of setting. These problems just mean that it's time for service.

The big lever next to the viewing lens is for the selftimer. If you want to test it, remember that you must cock the shutter first by winding the crank. If the selftimer refuses to run down and fire the shutter, don't try to force anything. It means that the camera must be sent to a repairman for CLA...

If you want to test the winding and frame counter mechanism you'll need a test roll of 120-film.

Even if everything seems to work fine, I would say that, but still sell it "as is". Someone who wants to buy it as a user camera should be prepared to have a CLA done.

 

[golfpro1518]

Yes, you are correct that it's the 2.8A, type 2.

Open the viewing hood and look through the viewing lens to see if the mirror looks ok or if the silvering has flaked off in places.

You can easily test the shutter by rotating the crank to cock the shutter and then press the shutter release. A good idea is to start by testing the faster shutter speeds first. You can start by 1/250 and then 1/100, then 1/50 and so on down to 1 sec. The escapement for the slower speeds kick in at 1/10, so by starting at the faster speeds and going down you'll "massage" the mechanisms in the shutter so the slowest speeds will be a little less likely to stick.

The fastest shutter speed is 1/500, but I'm not sure if you have to set this speed before cocking the shutter on the early Synchro-Compur, or if it's only the case for the older Compur-Rapid shutter, so it's safest to just start testing the shutter at 1/250. It's been a while since I looked into this, and perhaps someone else here knows more.

Slow or sticky slower speeds are common for a leaf shutter this old that hasn't been serviced in a long while. Sometimes the shutter blades refuse to close properly. Sometimes the shutter fires at the same speed regardless of setting. These problems just mean that it's time for service.

The big lever next to the viewing lens is for the selftimer. If you want to test it, remember that you must cock the shutter first by winding the crank. If the selftimer refuses to run down and fire the shutter, don't try to force anything. It means that the camera must be sent to a repairman for CLA...

If you want to test the winding and frame counter mechanism you'll need a test roll of 120-film.

Even if everything seems to work fine, I would say that, but still sell it "as is". Someone who wants to buy it as a user camera should be prepared to have a CLA done.

Thank you for your help JPD. I have a question about the serial number and how to confirm it's the 2.8A type 2 version 2 . In the picture below the chart shows the serial number I have on my camera as a 2.8 B . serial number I have I believe is 1204402. Can you clarify for me? Thank you.

 

[Dan Daniel]

There are a few different listings of Rolleiflex models and serial numbers out there. I may be wrong, but I am under the impression that none of these are based on direct factory records (I think that Leitz has factory records of serial numbers). So, for example, here is another breakdown of models and serial numbers that does place your number in the 2.8A type 2 batch-

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All Rollei - Rolleiflex - Rolleicord - TLR camera serial numbers - www.rolleiclub.com

Chonological overview of all 6x6 Rollei Rolleiflex TLR cameras

www.rolleiclub.com

 

[JPD]

Thank you for your help JPD. I have a question about the serial number and how to confirm it's the 2.8A type 2 version 2 . In the picture below the chart shows the serial number I have on my camera as a 2.8 B . serial number I have I believe is 1204402. Can you clarify for me? Thank you.

The 2.8A has a Tessar lens and Bayonet II. The 2.8B has a Biometar lens and Bayonet III. So they are very different.

 

[golfpro1518]

Thank you very much very helpful forum and site!

 

[golfpro1518]

The 2.8A has a Tessar lens and Bayonet II. The 2.8B has a Biometar lens and Bayonet III. So they are very different.

Hello back again with a follow-up question. Someone has asked me to take pictures of both lenses with a light through them to check quality of lenses. Do they literally mean point a light into the front of the lenses?
can anyone provide some insight into this or a picture showing what I need to do? Thanks!

 

[JPD]

Hello back again with a follow-up question. Someone has asked me to take pictures of both lenses with a light through them to check quality of lenses. Do they literally mean point a light into the front of the lenses?
can anyone provide some insight into this or a picture showing what I need to do? Thanks!

You just let the light from a lamp shine through the lens so you can see any haze or fungus on the lens elements.

Examples:

https://clevercreations.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/how-to-remove-prevent-camera-lens-fungus-4.jpg

https://kamerastore.com/cdn/shop/articles/1.24.22_-_Dirty_Lens_Article_Featured_Image.png

Hopefully it's not as bad as in those examples.

 

[golfpro1518]

You just let the light from a lamp shine through the lens so you can see any haze or fungus on the lens elements.

Examples:

https://clevercreations.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/how-to-remove-prevent-camera-lens-fungus-4.jpg

https://kamerastore.com/cdn/shop/articles/1.24.22_-_Dirty_Lens_Article_Featured_Image.png

Hopefully it's not as bad as in those examples.

JPD thanks for the quick reply I guess what I'm confused about is I cant take the lense on shine from the back through front or vice versa I can only shine a light into it from the front while lense is still on the camera. This is what you mean? In the second link it looks like the lense if seperated from camera

 

[MattKing]

Open the back of the camera.
Set the shutter to Bulb or Time.
Open the aperture to its largest size.
Shine the light from front or back - it doesn't matter.
Hold the digital camera at the other end of the lens from the light.
Open the shutter and take your digital picture.
And yes, you may need something or someone to help hold things or release the shutters or take the digital photo.

 

[golfpro1518]

Open the back of the camera.
Set the shutter to Bulb or Time.
Open the aperture to its largest size.
Shine the light from front or back - it doesn't matter.
Hold the digital camera at the other end of the lens from the light.
Open the shutter and take your digital picture.
And yes, you may need something or someone to help hold things or release the shutters or take the digital photo.

Thank you for your help. Would this be considered mold or just a dirty lense/mirror?

 

[JPD]

Thank you for your help. Would this be considered mold or just a dirty lense/mirror?

No mold, just some dust and slight haze. The mirror is in good condition with no flaking. Now check the taking lens.

 

[MattKing]

No mold, just some dust and slight haze. The mirror is in good condition with no flaking. Now check the taking lens.

Are you sure that those aren't images from each lens?

 

[JPD]

Are you sure that those aren't images from each lens?

Yes. you can see the "seat" of the mirror in the first image, and the groundglass reflecting in the second. So both are taken through the viewing lens.