Rollei TLR Buying Guide Advice

[JADoss23]

I'm sure there's been a post like this before but was browsing and didn't see anything as of recent. I was curious as to what is a good entry level Rollei TLR or similar. I used to own a Yashica Mat 124 but sold it and was looking to get another 6x6 camera to compliment my RB67. What's the main differences between the rollei models? Any opinions on best bang for buck? thanks

 

[pthornto]

Probably the best bang for the buck is either a Rolleiflex MX or Rolleiflex MX-EVS. These have really nice f3.5 Tessar lenses and are comparatively lighter than the D, E, F 3.5 and 2.8 Rolleis. I own an MX Automat and it has always worked well and given me great negatives. The downsides are: 1- the focus screen is dim for use indoors. It is useable it just takes some getting used to. 2- No light meter (a positive in a way) 3- focus screens are not easily swapped out and you can't readily use a prism for these. Still extremely well made and reliable. Rolleicord is also a great option. I agree that they complement an RB really well as they are so much easier to bring along on walks or for travel.

Paul

 

[JADoss23]

Probably the best bang for the buck is either a Rolleiflex MX or Rolleiflex MX-EVS. These have really nice f3.5 Tessar lenses and are comparatively lighter than the D, E, F 3.5 and 2.8 Rolleis. I own an MX Automat and it has always worked well and given me great negatives. The downsides are: 1- the focus screen is dim for use indoors. It is useable it just takes some getting used to. 2- No light meter (a positive in a way) 3- focus screens are not easily swapped out and you can't readily use a prism for these. Still extremely well made and reliable. Rolleicord is also a great option. I agree that they complement an RB really well as they are so much easier to bring along on walks or for travel.

Paul

Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely look into those. All of the different Rollei models overwhelm me a little. So many options and I know so little. Light meter is one thing I don't care about so I agree it's a positive not having one!

 

[macfred]

A nice overview :The Wonderful World of Rolleiflex TLR Photography: Buying a Used Rolleiflex TLR https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explor...-tlr-photography-buying-a-used-rolleiflex-tlr
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explor...-tlr-photography-buying-a-used-rolleiflex-tlr

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

2.8E or 3.5E or F variants that will be admittedly more expensive.

I can personally vouch for this shop: http://magicflexcamera.com/

He's more expensive than others but his Rolleis are like new. I have a 2.8E from him and it's amazing.

 

[Dan Daniel]

What do you want out of your camera? I think that there are two major issues with Rolleiflexes. One is condition. Pure and simple. Old cameras need to be cared for.

Second, lens. There are two main classes- the 4-element Tessar/Zenar lens, and the 5/6 element Planar/Xenotar. The Tessar-type is on models like the MX, MX-EVS, and Rolleicords. Almost all 'lettered' Rolleiflexes (C,D, E, and F) are the Planar-type. Your YashicaMat has a Tessar-type lens. The Planar-types tend towards better microcontrast and sharper.

By the time the MX-EVS was being made, Rollei had pretty well established the basic mechnisms through out the camera. There was some finessing of things like the focus adjustment and alignment system and such, and metering and couple metering, but no real structural changes.

Generally a Tessar-type will run you $250-550, a Planar-type will run you $500- 1200 and beyond

I do have an MX-EVS in the classifieds still.

 

[JADoss23]

What do you want out of your camera? I think that there are two major issues with Rolleiflexes. One is condition. Pure and simple. Old cameras need to be cared for.

Second, lens. There are two main classes- the 4-element Tessar/Zenar lens, and the 5/6 element Planar/Xenotar. The Tessar-type is on models like the MX, MX-EVS, and Rolleicords. Almost all 'lettered' Rolleiflexes (C,D, E, and F) are the Planar-type. Your YashicaMat has a Tessar-type lens. The Planar-types tend towards better microcontrast and sharper.

By the time the MX-EVS was being made, Rollei had pretty well established the basic mechnisms through out the camera. There was some finessing of things like the focus adjustment and alignment system and such, and metering and couple metering, but no real structural changes.

Generally a Tessar-type will run you $250-550, a Planar-type will run you $500- 1200 and beyond

I do have an MX-EVS in the classifieds still.

Really just looking for something more portable than my RB67 and square format for something different. The cheaper the better too but want to be realistic.

 

[removedacct1]

Really just looking for something more portable than my RB67 and square format for something different. The cheaper the better too but want to be realistic.

I recently acquired a Rolleiflex Automat 3 with a Tessar lens, for $110. and I find it a very good camera. I used to have a 3.5F model with the Xenotar and the lens performance was better (contrast, flare control) but I honestly like the rendering style of the Tessar lenses better. There's nothing wrong with the less expensive models with the Tessar lenses, as long as you understand their strengths and weaknesses.

Photo made with my Tessar Rolleiflex:

 

[Dan Daniel]

Really just looking for something more portable than my RB67 and square format for something different. The cheaper the better too but want to be realistic.

The Xenar lens in a Rolleicord is a very nice lens. And the Rokkor in a Minolta Autocord is also very nice, probably the 'best' Tessar-type lens in a TLR. And the lever focus is nice, I find. Both of these are built better than YashicaMats. But still, for overall design and quality mechanics and such, the Rolleiflex is the nicest camera to use.

 

[baachitraka]

Rolleicord Va: Bright screen and sharp Xenar lens and light weight.

Rolleicord Vb: Easy to inter-change the screen but I have no idea how bright are they in comparison to Va

But Rollei V and lower have dark screens.

For portraits I personally prefer a Rollei with Triotar ;-)

 

[removedacct1]

The Xenar lens in a Rolleicord is a very nice lens. And the Rokkor in a Minolta Autocord is also very nice, probably the 'best' Tessar-type lens in a TLR. And the lever focus is nice, I find. Both of these are built better than YashicaMats. But still, for overall design and quality mechanics and such, the Rolleiflex is the nicest camera to use.

I concur with Dan: the Minolta Autocord is an excellent camera, and the Rokkor lens is my favorite of all my TLRs - great contrast, sharpness and flare control. Mechanically the Autocord is a bit "coarse" compared to the smooth and sophisticated engineering of the Rolleiflexes, but in terms of quality of output, the Autocord is an exceptional camera, and can be had for far less than most Rolleiflexes.

 

[JADoss23]

I recently acquired a Rolleiflex Automat 3 with a Tessar lens, for $110. and I find it a very good camera. I used to have a 3.5F model with the Xenotar and the lens performance was better (contrast, flare control) but I honestly like the rendering style of the Tessar lenses better. There's nothing wrong with the less expensive models with the Tessar lenses, as long as you understand their strengths and weaknesses.

Photo made with my Tessar Rolleiflex:

Sounds like you got a steal. That's a beautiful photo. Thanks for all of the info. it's helped a great deal!

 

[macfred]

Photo made with my Tessar Rolleiflex:

Paul, this one is beautiful!

 

[removedacct1]

Paul, this one is beautiful!

Thank you Fred!

Sounds like you got a steal. That's a beautiful photo. Thanks for all of the info. it's helped a great deal!

It was an excellent price, yes - but it was inexpensive because it came from a friend who made a very reasonable offer. Don't expect to find one this cheap on the eMarket. And thank you, I'm glad you like the photo

 

[EdSawyer]

Paul, nice shot, no doubt.

I like the 3.5F planar as the best option. It's cheaper than the 2.8s, but still in demand so it will hold value better than the lesser rolleis. Also, as the latest model in that line, it's likely to be the most reliable and is definitely among the most refined of the Rolleis. Lighter than the 2.8 series also. No, it's not the cheapest (I'd expect to spend about $800-1000 for a really mint one), but it will hold value and be useful indefinitely. No need to start with an entry level one and then step up, that's just a waste of time and $. Go for the best from the get-go: buy once, cry once. ;-)

-Ed

 

[jimjm]

The Rolleicords, while being cheaper than Rolleiflexes, will definitely give great results - especially if you are looking to get into Rolleis for a few hundred dollars or so.
I wouldn't consider one older than a Rolleicord III, and with later models the focusing screens got brighter and some features were added. You might also find a Rollieflex Automat for around the same price.
"Cords are a bit lighter than "Flexes, but still very well-made. Check that the film winding and focusing are smooth, taking lens is clear and shutter speeds appear accurate. If the shutter needs servicing, the slow speeds may be sticky.
I've got a 'Cord III and V with Xenar lenses, and a 1949 Automat with the Tessar, and they all give great results. I always use a hood for the taking lens as the Tessar seems prone to flare in some situations.
RolleiClub web site also has a lot of good information.

Here's one with the Rolleicord III with the Xenar lens:

 

[weasel]

It all depends on what sort of money you want to spend, really. I started with a very pristine rollie with a 3.5 tessar, and the results from it were noticebly better than what I got out of a yashicamat I had, or a mamiya c330. I came across an ugly 2.8 E maybe 30 years ago for a good price, and it is the one camera I would keep if you told me I had to give everything else up. The planar lens gives noticably sharper images than the tessar, the extra stop makes focusing easier, ( much more important to me now than 30 years ago for sure.) If money is no object to you, go for a 2.8 model in the best shape you can find, but the 3.5 will not dissapoint you. On these older cameras condition is everything.

 

[ic-racer]

I'd get the newest one available. I don't recall the last year of production. At the time I got mine the "Honeywell" branded ones were the latest ones, so I got one of those. It is still working well today!

Rolleicord is also an option. A clean, unmolested Rolleicord will work better than a beat-to-death 2.8C.

 

[JADoss23]

Thanks for all of the advice. Love looking at these beautiful cameras. I think my budget is more on the low end. 300 USD max since it won't be my main camera but something I can use on the go and such. Would you all recommend places like KEH or the forum and shy away from the auction site? Just curious.

 

[Dan Daniel]

If you aren't experienced on the auction site, it will most likely not lead to a good result. Too many estate sale finds, basement cameras, etc. If you don't what to look for in how something is listed or what is shown in the photos, expect a camera that needs work. For example, if a seller has 5000 sales and lists a camera as 'untested.' that means it is broken- they are doing this full-time and know darn well how to test and value items.

KEH, forums like here, rangefinderforum, etc. I've had the best luck buying from people in places like this. And I know when I sell in a place like this, I want it to work out right for the buyer. Think about throwing up a Wanted To Buy ad, also- people do look at them and might be encouraged to think about getting rid of a camera if they know it will be a simple straight process.

$300 will get you set up with an Autocord or Rolleicord in very good working condition. Rolleiflex is possible with the right seller but you are looking at something like an Automat MX which will need to have been overhauled in the recent past to be a safe purchase. Though don't ignore these- the 1949-51 Xenar is a killer lens.

 

[Alan9940]

Thanks for all of the advice. Love looking at these beautiful cameras. I think my budget is more on the low end. 300 USD max since it won't be my main camera but something I can use on the go and such. Would you all recommend places like KEH or the forum and shy away from the auction site? Just curious.

Personally, I'd stay away from eBay for a Rollei...I've heard too many horror stories. If you do go that route, make sure you can return it. Also, probably best to figure in a CLA, too, what ever you buy. Nothing wrong with KEH (at least you get a warranty); you might want to watch kamerastore.com (I've never bought anything from them, but I've heard good things.) Rolleis popup for sale on here fairly often, too. If my budget was in the $300 - $400 range and I was dead set on getting a Rolleiflex, then I'd recommend the MX-EVS. I've owned one for awhile and it's a great picture taker at a reasonable investment. If I wasn't "Flex brainwashed", I'd recommend the 'Cord Va or Vb.

 

[TheRook]

Was there something you did not like about the Yashica Mat 124? This could help you decide which Rollei best suits your needs.

 

[TonyB65]

I have a Rolleicord VB, I can highly recommend them, simple to use, great for travel and as sharp as you need them to be, they're also good for bulb shooting and double exposures and the lens on mine is remarkably flare resistant. It's as close to medium format in your pocket as your likely to get, aside from folding cameras. You might also want to consider a 6x6 or 6x9 folding camera, they can be picked up even cheaper and there are some gems out there for not a lot of money.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

Paul, nice shot, no doubt.

I like the 3.5F planar as the best option. It's cheaper than the 2.8s, but still in demand so it will hold value better than the lesser rolleis. Also, as the latest model in that line, it's likely to be the most reliable and is definitely among the most refined of the Rolleis. Lighter than the 2.8 series also. No, it's not the cheapest (I'd expect to spend about $800-1000 for a really mint one), but it will hold value and be useful indefinitely. No need to start with an entry level one and then step up, that's just a waste of time and $. Go for the best from the get-go: buy once, cry once. ;-)

-Ed

I tend to agree with this, probably because I have one too. Got a mint one for $400 (some 10 years back) but added another $400 to "Fleenorize" it with Maxwell screen included (it was mint just with unknown history when in hibernation). While I love its mechanical quality, I get just as much joy from using several Yashicas with plain Mat probably my favorite, but the mint never used A topping my collection (originally sold in 1957, repurchased in 2018 with apparent zero use in between).

 

[Deleted member 88956]

Thanks for all of the advice. Love looking at these beautiful cameras. I think my budget is more on the low end. 300 USD max since it won't be my main camera but something I can use on the go and such. Would you all recommend places like KEH or the forum and shy away from the auction site? Just curious.

Craiglist is always an option, eye-to-eye deals are at least on surface safer, but I would not shy away from Ebay. While most of these are generally overpriced, there are still bargains to be head, just a lot more patience is now usually required to find one.