I have been using the Rollei recommended times for stock XTOL and replenished XTOL without any problems.
Rollei is, of course, just a licensed brand name.
So I would be cautious about this - the film versions may be quite different.
Historically, some Kodak films had markedly different development times when moving from roll to sheet film, but some of that might have been due to different targeted contrast response.
Or maybe not - the substrate and differences in anti-halation methods can make for significant differences - at least at the engineering stage.
@Andrew O'Neill uses these films -- I think. Perhaps he will chime in.
i use the same times for all the formats, 35mm, 120 and 4x5. I do have issues with the 4x5 film becoming dislodged i whatever insert I use in my paterson tanks, either mod54 or the 20th century. also appliesd to my nikor steel tank, but that issue is the film getting kinked while loading into the slots. the dip and dunk would be a good decision.
john
Hence the reason I use the Jobo 3010 Expert Drum with five tubes that hold two 4"x5" sheets per tube in place securely.
My times for 120 and 4x5 in Pyrocat-HD are the same. The same goes for Xtol-R. The film bases are the same for all formats... "Accurate, tear-proof clear polyester material, 100µm, 35mm, rollfilm and cut sheet film material".
100µm = .1mm.
When I first started using this stuff about 15 years ago, it was interlaced with sheets of paper of the same thickness. Talk about a pain in the butt trying to make sure I was loading film and not paper... and only one sheet per side! I got a box once where the notch codes gradually disappeared as I worked my way into the box. Its confectioning has improved over the years!
I’m interested in getting one of these, as dip and dunk in darkness is getting tedious. I’ve been put off by the price though.
How easy/hard is it to load the film?
Oh wow, that sounds like a pain!
So if you’re using the same times, which end of the range (~11min to 16min) would you recommend I develop at ?
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