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Rollei ATP 1.1 development questions

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Athiril, yep, that looks awful. It's even bad around the leaves. Was that Rodinal stand development or agitation every 2nd minute?

I like the sidewalk photo. You don't need to crop very much to remove the vignetting. I don't see any halo effect.
 
In terms of development, treat it like Kodak Tech. Panchromatic. It is a bit faster, but it is a similar type of film.

I have tried several things to tame the contrast, and the only one that really kills it enough to give me mostly normal negs is POTA.

The data sheet is worth a read, though it says nothing about POTA to my recollection.

I use the POTA formula in The Darkroom Cookbook for five to seven minutes (six for normal contrast, five for a little less, and seven for a little more). I expose at EI 3.

With a working EI that low in order to get normal-contrast negs, there is a trade off. The benefits in resolution and sharpness over a more standard film have to be balanced by the fact that you likely need to use wide apertures and/or long exposures (i.e. a tripod).

Personally, while I think this film is to die for on a technical level, in most cases T-Max 100 is a more practical choice. The sharpness and resolution benefits of the ATP over T-Max won't be seen until you start enlarging your prints to a notable degree. There are differences in tonality, though.
 
Thanks, 2F/2F. I have only a vague idea of what a lot of that means, but it sounds like valuable information. I'll definitely read about POTA and add it to my list of potential developers for ATP. As for the practicality of other films, I agree, but my goal is a 16x20 or bigger enlargement from 35mm. So far none of the "very fine grain" films I've tried could produce what I would consider a quality print at that size. If I had several thousand dollars to buy a much bigger telescope and a medium format camera, then I could probably get away with something like T-Max.
 
Good examples , the picket fence as it gets further away, by the two windows, really shows the undesired effect.

BTW: Is there any good HDR?

Yes, of course. HDR is just a technique. Anyone who says otherwise is just being ignorant.



Athiril, yep, that looks awful. It's even bad around the leaves. Was that Rodinal stand development or agitation every 2nd minute?

I like the sidewalk photo. You don't need to crop very much to remove the vignetting. I don't see any halo effect.

1+300, Every 2nd minute.


In terms of development, treat it like Kodak Tech. Panchromatic. It is a bit faster, but it is a similar type of film.

I have tried several things to tame the contrast, and the only one that really kills it enough to give me mostly normal negs is POTA.

The data sheet is worth a read, though it says nothing about POTA to my recollection.

I use the POTA formula in The Darkroom Cookbook for five to seven minutes (six for normal contrast, five for a little less, and seven for a little more). I expose at EI 3.

With a working EI that low in order to get normal-contrast negs, there is a trade off. The benefits in resolution and sharpness over a more standard film have to be balanced by the fact that you likely need to use wide apertures and/or long exposures (i.e. a tripod).

Personally, while I think this film is to die for on a technical level, in most cases T-Max 100 is a more practical choice. The sharpness and resolution benefits of the ATP over T-Max won't be seen until you start enlarging your prints to a notable degree. There are differences in tonality, though.



T-Max isn't superpanchromatic though, but Rollei 80s is.

Given the 12 minute time for Rodinal 1+300, you could increase exposure and shorten development. Plenty of other things to try.

I'll be trying this;
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/LatentImageBleach/latentimagebleach.html



Thanks, 2F/2F. I have only a vague idea of what a lot of that means, but it sounds like valuable information. I'll definitely read about POTA and add it to my list of potential developers for ATP. As for the practicality of other films, I agree, but my goal is a 16x20 or bigger enlargement from 35mm. So far none of the "very fine grain" films I've tried could produce what I would consider a quality print at that size. If I had several thousand dollars to buy a much bigger telescope and a medium format camera, then I could probably get away with something like T-Max.

If you do not need superpanchromatic sensitivity, then there is Rollei Pan 25, and then there is Adox CMS 20, which is sharper and finer than ATP.
 
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I don't know if superpanchromatic sensitivity is particularly beneficial when photographing the moon. My choice of ATP was mostly for its extremely fine grain, and I thought extra red sensitivity certainly couldn't hurt. Adox CMS 20 is really finer than ATP? Time to order a few more rolls...
 
Adox CMS 20 is really finer than ATP?

Yes. But CMS20 is even more finicky to develop. Highlights block really fast. The new Adotech II is said to improve that significantly.
 
Both films are very fine grained.
Right now I have no ATP1,1 scans at hand but here are some CMS 20, souped in rodinal, adotech (v1)..
1st - hazed winter sky, late afternoon, Adox CMS 20 shot @ ~ 10ASA, Elmar(1939)50mm @f/4,5, yellow 0, developed in Rodinal 1+300 for 28min, semi-stand, scan from negative, Plustek 7400, Vuescan
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2nd - late spring, noon time, clear sky, Adox CMS 20 shot @ 20ASA, Russar(1958)20mm @f/8, yellow 1, developed in Adotech 1+24 for 5,5min, scan from negative, Plustek 7400, Vuescan
Dead Link Removed
3rd - late autumn, noon time, Adox CMS 20 shot @ ~ 10ASA, Russar(1958)20mm @f/5,6(wide open), yellow 1, developed in Rodinal 1+100 for 17min, semi-stand, scan from negative, Plustek 7400, Vuescan
Dead Link Removed
 
MACO offers for the high resolution photography the traditional superpanchromatic Rollei ATP1.1.

Since years, this film is described by Maco as the primary successor of the Kodak Technical Pan.

The results of the ATP1.1, produced by Agfa, are significantly superior to the former results, because of the new developer.

The handling with highly diluted Rodinal brings acceptable results.

But this is no comparison to the results with the original ATP-DC A/B developer.

Only this is the technic's state of the art.

For the end of August, the photo chemistry producer SPUR, Aachen / Germany will launch the Part B2.

With this developer it will be possible to get results without artefacts in the Format 120.

With kind regards,
Sebastian Junghans
 
MACO offers for the high resolution photography the traditional superpanchromatic Rollei ATP1.1.

Since years, this film is described by Maco as the primary successor of the Kodak Technical Pan.

The results of the ATP1.1, produced by Agfa, are significantly superior to the former results, because of the new developer.

The handling with highly diluted Rodinal brings acceptable results.

But this is no comparison to the results with the original ATP-DC A/B developer.

Only this is the technic's state of the art.

For the end of August, the photo chemistry producer SPUR, Aachen / Germany will launch the Part B2.

With this developer it will be possible to get results without artefacts in the Format 120.

With kind regards,
Sebastian Junghans

How long could I storage ATP-DC A/B2 developer?
 
Do you have experiences with Rollei ATP 1.1 in Diafine, please?
 
I've developed ATP 1.1 in Rollei RLS (old CG-512) with an ISO 32. Negatives are excellent (to my taste, of course) and give powerful prints in a condenser enlarger. If I overexpose two stops, then negatives are beautiful to print using POP.
 
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