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Roll film backs

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joeyk49

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Jan 13, 2004
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1,325
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I was trolling ebay, when I came upon an auction for a Graphlex 23 filmback for a 4x5 Graphic camera. At first I said, "Neat, this would let me shoot my 120 film with my Crown Graphic... But as I sat here, I couldn't help but think, "Why?" Could someone please explain to me why I would want to use medioum film in an LF camera? Isn't the whole reason for going to LF is to get the bigger negative??? I'm probably going to slap my forehead with the first reply, but go ahead, let me have it....
 
A lot of people go up to LF for the movements/ perspective controls. And I guess if you don't want to carry a lot of holders out in the field, you might want the convenience of rolls.
-Grant
 
Exactly -- lets you use the LF lenses and movements (even the limited movements of a Speed are better than what you don't get with any common MF camera) and still be able to blow through (in this case) 8 exposures in a couple minutes -- is it the lever advance version? Those are uber-cool and fast operating...

Really, originally, they were to let you use convenient roll film on the Speed or Crown you already had. There were roll film backs for 3x4 and 4x5, too -- 4 or 5 inch wide paper backed roll film, on spools like 120! -- and smaller sizes were made in versions that would adapt down, or that would fit the matching size camera directly.
 
Versatility.

It's a handy way to travel light with a lot of film for handheld snapshots. My two most recent APUG gallery shots were with a 6x7 back on my 4x5" Tech V. I was carrying the Tech V on a strap with one lens and the rollfilm back, two lenses in a fanny pack, a compact meter, and a few rolls of film.

Sometimes you might want to shoot with a longer lens than you have or is practical with 4x5", so you might as well shoot rollfilm.

Quick film changing is another attraction, if that's important for a particular subject (portraits, animals, etc.).

Rollfilm processing can be more convenient or cheaper, say for color, so I travel with 4x5" for B&W and rollfilm for color sometimes.

In general, I prefer to shoot the larger neg, but the 6x7 back can come in handy sometimes.
 
Thanks. That makes sense.

Another stupid question: How do you know what part of the 4x5 image being projected onto the film plane is going to be captured by the 120 filmback?
 
Some ground glass has different patterns on them, and on others people will trace the pattern on the screen, if you want to take a look at the various film sizes as they relate to a 4 x 5 ground glass, just take a look at our website and download the 4 x 5 templates that can be traced on the screen.

Dave Parker
Satin Snow Ground Glass
www.satinsnowglass.com
 
joeyk49 said:
How do you know what part of the 4x5 image being projected onto the film plane is going to be captured by the 120 filmback?

The simplest way I know of is to remove the ground glass from the camera, lay the rollfilm holder against the smooth side, line up all the edges properly, and with a sharp pencil trace the opening on the ground side. Use a ruler if you want to make nice neat lines. If so inclined, you can get fancy, with framing extension instead of an actual border line, adding a grid, etc. -- entirely up to you.

Of course, this works best on plain ground glass, and you do have to watch orientation...
 
The reason why I have used roll film backs on my 4x5 is that when I am playing around with different ideas for still life shots, but have not really settled on a composition, it gives me a chance to experiment at a much lower cost per exposure. I can't afford to blow through 15 or 20 sheets of 4x5.
And I still get excellent results with 11x14 enlargements.

gene
 
Is there any noticable problem with the resolution of 4x5 lenses when using a roll film and enlarging to typical roll film print sizes?

I've wanted to move slowly into large format but don't want to jump into tray developing of film yet. For me, a rollfilm back and a cheap monorail camera would be great.
 
The only problem I can envision is if one twisted the bellows into a pretzel shape and the film is outside the image circle. With roll film backs on a 4x5 you are using only the center of the image circle. This should give you the best resolving power of the lens and ample room for the movements a view camera affords you.
To develope my 4x5 film I use a HP Combi Tank with no side affects what so ever. But with my new (to me) 5x7 I will have to learn tray processing! :surprised:
My suggestion: GO for it!! It's great fun. :D

gene
 
A couple of other reason to use roll film on a 4x5: emulsion availability; there are more films available in 120 than in 4x5. Also, shooting a smaller negative allows you to use more greater movements if your lens doesn't throw a huge image circle. (The standard "press camera" 135mm lens doesn't leave much room for movements on a 4x5, but with a 6x7 back you can use extreme movements with the same lens.)

MSchuler - Modern LF lenses (and some not-so-modern lenses as well) capture plenty of information on a 6x7 frame for enlargements up to 16x20. Perhaps more, but I've never tried. Tonalities will be smoother with 4x5, but for learning you could do a lot worse than the setup you've described. One other thing to consider if you don't want to get into tray development would be a print drum on a motorized base. There's a great article at largeformatphotography.info that describes the procedure. You can pick up the drums and bases on eBay at very reasonable prices.
 
3x4 black and white in film holders and then 120 color in a roll film holder.

Oddly enough, my roll film back for 3x4 has the pressure rollers in it--something I thought wasn't made....maybe it is a hack job.
 
Jeremy Moore said:
Oddly enough, my roll film back for 3x4 has the pressure rollers in it--something I thought wasn't made....maybe it is a hack job.
Apparently some were made with the rollers late in the production of the old style (pre-lever wind) backs. I have a 6x9 back that's knob wind but that has the rollers.
 
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