Rodinal (!!)

brofkand · Jul 29, 2009

After using D-76 exclusively for about a year and a half, I decided to try some Rodinal.

I have my Mamiya m645 1000s here that I've been meaning to use before my return period with KEH expires to be certain all is in order, and I decided to develop the Arista EDU Ultra 400 in Rodinal instead of D-76. I was nervous since this was my first time with the new camera AND a new developer, but I wanted to see what was up.

Those negatives are perhaps the most beautiful I've ever produced. I looked at them on my light table with an 8x loupe, and they are absolutely stunning. They're sharp, reasonably contrasty, and dense (perfect for an easy print session). Every other time I'd used EDU Ultra 400 I've gotten poor results, be it 35mm or 120.

I don't know if it's the Mamiya or the Rodinal, but those negatives are wonderful. I can't wait until this weekend so I can print them.

yanboechat · Jul 30, 2009

I want to try the rodinal as well. Show the pictures. I´m curious to see them

Kevin Caulfield · Jul 30, 2009

Not only does it produce stunning results, but it is also one of the most economical developers to use.

insertclevername · Jul 30, 2009

What are you rating the Arista EDU Ultra at? From my experience, it has a true speed of just about 200 in most developers.

Anyway, about Rodinal. It's good stuff, cheap and very versatile. Rodinal is surprisingly good at pushing when used correctly. If you ever get a chance, try stand developing TRI-X rated at 2400. Of course, slower films like Pan-F produce astounding resolution with Rodinal. Overall, it's a really nice developer to have around.

darkosaric · Jul 30, 2009

yanboechat said:
I want to try the rodinal as well. Show the pictures. I´m curious to see them

I use rodinal almost exclusively. Only not good results with adox cms 20, all other films - ok.

Martin Reed · Jul 30, 2009

It's amazing stuff, and the keeping properties are incredible - I've still got a glass 1977 bottle of it that I occasionally check, and it's still going strong. Adding sodium sulphite to round off the graininess is one way of matching it to faster films, but what about this, a mix of Xtol & Rodinal from Sam Elkind?

Xtol = 100 mL
Water = 400 mL
Rodinal = 4 to 5 mL

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html

catem · Jul 30, 2009

Martin, have you tried that mixture?

I've started to use Rodinal also just recently for certain things - I found that link when I was searching for info an wondered about it.
I normally use Xtol. I was thinking to mix could either be the best of both worlds, or neither one thing nor the other..
I know these things are very subjective, but interested to hear about what anyone thinks of it...

Ian Grant · Jul 30, 2009

J.W.Shaw - HYDROQUINONE p-AMINOPHENOL DEVELOPER

Not forgetting another Rodinal concoction

J.W.Shaw - HYDROQUINONE p-AMINOPHENOL DEVELOPER
Warm Toned Print developer. (Using Rodinal)

Solution A

Hydroquinone 16.7 g
Sodium Sulphite 91 g
Citric Acid 6.25 g
Potassium Bromide 3.12 g
Water to 1 litre

Solution B

Sodium Hydroxide 16.7 g
Water to 1 litre

Solution C Potassium Bromide Solution 10% (!00 g/litre)

To Use:
24 ml Soln A
24 ml Soln B
1 ml Rodinal (Agfa)
12 ml Soln C
100 ml Water

Originally formulated for lantern slides this developer works well with warm tone papers.

Ian

Bosaiya · Jul 30, 2009

Rodinal is beautiful, forgiving, and inexpensive. What's not to love?

brofkand · Jul 30, 2009

yanboechat said:
I want to try the rodinal as well. Show the pictures. I´m curious to see them

It'll be a few days. I don't have a neg scanner so I'll have to print the negatives, and it isn't a small affair to set up everything.

Rodinal is awesome. Definitely try it. What developer do you use most often now?

Earl Dunbar · Jul 31, 2009

I have used the Rodinal/XTol combination and like it a lot. I stumbled upon it in the work of Robert Vincent (_Honus_ on flickr & RFF), and he got it from an APUG thread.

One of the beautiful things about Rodinal, IMO, is that for a given concentration most films have the same development time. I've found this the case for 1:100, at least. At that dilution, TX400, TMY2, TMX, APX 100 and FP-4+ all do well @ 20 min/20C. (YMMV, test for individual circumstances, offer not valid in all countries, yadda, yadda.) This makes processing a whole backlog of film a lot easier.

Ian Grant · Jul 31, 2009

Earl Dunbar said:
One of the beautiful things about Rodinal, IMO, is that for a given concentration most films have the same development time. I've found this the case for 1:100, at least. .

I'd have to agree, but it's also pretty much the same with Pyrocat HD

Ian

Willie Jan · Jul 31, 2009

for me also.
my films and pyrocat HD are also the same time developed.
fp4+ / adox chs 100 / fuji acros (all 4x5")

Mike1234 · Jul 31, 2009

Rodinal Is a...

...high acutance developer meaning is resolves fine tonalities well. I love the stuff but it's been years since I've done any wet process B&W work.

Earl Dunbar · Jul 31, 2009

Ian & Willie: Good to know. I've been giving Pyrocat HD some thought recently, especially for LF work. It's just hard for me to balance more than a couple of developers. I'm so used to Rodinal, and I've been doing a bit of work with XTol on its own. Late this year I'll likely be getting some Harvey's 777 for a small tank line. Too many developers, too little time.

Prest_400 · Jul 31, 2009

I may start B&W developing and after knowing that 1l of D76/ID11 may develop just a few films, I'm more interested in rodinal. Seems like a 500ml bottle may be able to develop a good quantity of films; 30, 60?
How good are it's keeping properties after opening the bottle? I've read about a year, and some say even decades!

Bosaiya · Jul 31, 2009

Prest_400 said:
I may start B&W developing and after knowing that 1l of D76/ID11 may develop just a few films, I'm more interested in rodinal. Seems like a 500ml bottle may be able to develop a good quantity of films; 30, 60?
How good are it's keeping properties after opening the bottle? I've read about a year, and some say even decades!

Number of films depends on dilution. Typically 1:25, 1:50, or 1:100. Once opened it will last longer than you might ever imagine. There are tales of many decades, just strain out the chunky crystals that form.

At something like $16 a bottle it's a small investment.

Ian Grant · Jul 31, 2009

Earl Dunbar said:
Ian & Willie: Good to know. I've been giving Pyrocat HD some thought recently, especially for LF work. It's just hard for me to balance more than a couple of developers. I'm so used to Rodinal, and I've been doing a bit of work with XTol on its own. Late this year I'll likely be getting some Harvey's 777 for a small tank line. Too many developers, too little time.

Fomapan films are the only exception, I should have added that earlier, they require about 2/3rds the dev time of other films or end up very contrasty.

Ian

Anon Ymous · Jul 31, 2009

Go for it Prest. At 1+50 and assuming that 300ml of solution is all you need (at least for my Jobo tank) it will process 80+ films (6ml per 135 film). It doesn't cost much and it can be stored for a long time after it's opened. If you ever get bored, just put it at the shelf and you can use it again whenever you want. FYI, it cost me 14,5€ about a year and a half ago. Try it with APX100. Brilliant stuff.

Rodinal (!!)

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