Rodinal 1+200?

[jamusu]

I am seriously thinking of using Rodinal 1+200 for a semi-stand development, but first I want to develop it in my regular developer for the regular time, discard, then let it sit in the rodinal for the stand portion.

I have a couple of questions:

1.) What are the dilutions for rodinal 1+200 in a 2 roll tank for 35mm

2.) Am I crazy for thinking of trying it?

Jamusu.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

What do you hope to gain?

- Thomas

 

[jamusu]

What do you hope to gain?

- Thomas

____________________________________________________________________

Thomas.

I really don't know what I am looking for. I am just having fun experimenting, but I do like the look of photos that used this method.

I am hoping the Xtol will push the film to where I want it, and the Rodinal will do the rest. Strictly hit and miss!

Thank you,
Jamusu.

 

[david b]

Rodinal 1+100 and xtol 1+1 are two different beasts.

I've never done 1+200 but 1+100, in the right situation (contrast) is pretty nice

 

[abeku]

I've never done that what you're trying to achieve. However, I've found out that Rodinal diluted 1+200 works really well if one follow a semi-stand development according to: Agitation 30 seconds, and then agitation 10 seconds every 30 minutes, repeated 3 times (total time 90 minutes). But skip the plastic reels, go for a steel tank (and reel) in order to avoid uneven development.
... not sure if that answered your question?

 

[jamusu]

Rodinal 1+100 and xtol 1+1 are two different beasts.

I've never done 1+200 but 1+100, in the right situation (contrast) is pretty nice

___________________________________________________________________

David.

In your experiences what are the differences?

Jamusu.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I'm not David, but I perceive a sharper negative with Rodinal, and finer grain with Xtol. Xtol is probably also a better choice for film speed.

In my mind, and I am rambling now, it would make sense to do a partial development with Xtol, mainly to gain shadow area density. Then wash thoroughly with plain water and then start the Rodinal. For what you're doing, I'd probably even dilute the Rodinal to 1+300. I've used 1+200 and it's about the limit if you're using 500ml per roll of film. 1+300 would cause the developer to exhaust quicker, and might serve you well so you don't blow the highlights.

- Thomas

 

[reellis67]

I've done stand development in a two reel tank - 2ml of Rodinal in 400ml of water with one loaded reel. Agitate for the first minute then let it sit for an hour. I would not suggest doing two reels at the same time with this method though.

What is the point of developing normally and then developing again using stand development? The first development for a standard time will provide normal development, and then the stand development will overdevelop it would seem...

- Randy

 

[jamusu]

Randy.

There really is no point. I just want to try it.

My primary developer is Xtol stock, but I have used rodinal 1+25 a couple of times and loved the sharpness of the negatives, but I like the grain that rodinal produces. I know I will probably ruin the negatives to my dismay because of the four test rolls there is on series of shots that I would really love to see developed correctly to make enlargements from.

Jamusu.

 

[railwayman3]

Errrrrrmmmm....if your film contains important shots, and you know that your usual procedure with Xtol is OK, why ruin them by messing around with experimentation? :rolleyes:

I know it's fun to try things out, but surely a bit masochistic to risk wrecking your good pictures in the process. :confused:

 

[jim appleyard]

I like to experiment as well, but important shots should be treated as such. If you want to experiment, take pics of your garage, the local park, your dog, etc.

 

[Shawn Dougherty]

I just had incredible results using Rodinal with Tri-X at 1:200 semi-stand. There were negatives I'd exposed at night in extreme contrast as well as negs exposed during "normal" sunny conditions on the same roll and all of them looked great. I mixed 2.5ml in 500ml of distilled water, agitated for the first minute then again after 20 minutes. Water bathed after 40 minutes total development and fixed as normal. (I presoaked for about 5 minutes or so). Negatives that I had bracketed in 3s with a full stop in between look identical in the highlights, only the shadows show the difference in exposure.... I'll be doing more experimenting but this is the widest range of contrast I've ever developed on the same roll with the results not only looking like printable negs but GOOD negs. Good luck. Shawn

 

[jamusu]

I like to experiment as well, but important shots should be treated as such. If you want to experiment, take pics of your garage, the local park, your dog, etc.

____________________________________________________________________

Jim.

I understand your point fully, but I love taking chances when developing my film. A test roll will not work in this instance because there is no way I can recreate the lighting or the situation to use as an example.

I have never done a test roll. It's either, "HIT or MISS". Hopefully I will hit it out of the park. If not there is always another day, although I must admit that for the first time, I am a bit nervous to try it which is why I started the thread.

I appreciate your suggestion.

Jamusu.

 

[jamusu]

I'm not David, but I perceive a sharper negative with Rodinal, and finer grain with Xtol. Xtol is probably also a better choice for film speed.

In my mind, and I am rambling now, it would make sense to do a partial development with Xtol, mainly to gain shadow area density. Then wash thoroughly with plain water and then start the Rodinal. For what you're doing, I'd probably even dilute the Rodinal to 1+300. I've used 1+200 and it's about the limit if you're using 500ml per roll of film. 1+300 would cause the developer to exhaust quicker, and might serve you well so you don't blow the highlights.

- Thomas

___________________________________________________________________

Thomas.

That is exactly what I had in mind by using the two, although it is risky it is worth a try.

What are your dilutions for rodinal 1+200 and 1+300 for two rolls of film if you do not mind my asking?

Also, thanks for the tip about washing in between developers.

Jamusu.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Jamusu,

You really have me all geeked out on this thread... I find it exciting! Regardless of how it turns out, you HAVE to post your results.

For one roll of film I use 500ml of developer, regardless of dilution. So for 1+200, you'd use 2.5ml Rodinal per roll. At 1+300 that would be reduced to 1.67ml (give or take a few micro-liters... ).
Using the same volume is the only way to get meaningful information on how much (or how little) developer concentrate you can use to develop one roll of film.

Good luck!

- Thomas

 

[jamusu]

Thomas.

I have tried this method before on a much smaller scale in the past, but never printed the negatives. I think I remember which ones they are. I will take a look at them tomorrow.

My adrenaline is rushing now. I can't wait to remove the film from the tank, and take my annual small peek at the first couple of reels before the film takes it's plunge into the final wash as I always do.

Forget it. I will not take the peek this time. I will wait until after the photo-flo to see the results what ever they may be in their fullness. I only have two options: "HIT or MISS"!!!!

"Hit or Miss". Nothing less...nothing more. I would have it no other way when it comes to photography. It is my motto, the vehicle that drives me in this genre that we all love. In fact, there is no other way in my thwarted opinion.

Jamusu.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

You have one heck of a strange way of looking at this film processing thing, but I guess it takes all kinds to keep the film manufacturers happy... I'm awaiting your results with excitement. It's all good, and in a way I can see how it would be relieving to not care so much about film negatives. They are, after all, just film negatives (depending on who you ask, of course).

- Thomas

 

[dancqu]

For one roll of film I use 500ml of developer,
regardless of dilution.

With more agitation less developer should do.
Say a few inversions each minute, 30 minutes,
one milliliter. Rodinal 1:500! A world record for
someone willing to try. Dan

 

[msdemanche]

hello everyone, new to the thread. check out my gallery ,look in the portfolios under michel demanche. Now to the question, I have a student that now works at a top black and white lab in new york. He came up with the mixture for all of my negs. It starts with HC110 as a first developer,at 1/2 time and 1/2 time in rodinal 1+30. It gives me the contrast I need and full even development. He calls it the moe mixture. Now these are normally dip tank 4X5's but when I do my own mixture here for my 120's I have the same results. I of course am finding rodinol hard to buy these days.
michel

 

[railwayman3]

Thomas.

My adrenaline is rushing now. I can't wait to remove the film from the tank, and take my annual small peek at the first couple of reels before the film takes it's plunge into the final wash as I always do.

"Hit or Miss". Nothing less...nothing more. In fact, there is no other way in my thwarted opinion.

Jamusu.

Well, guess we all get our thrills in different ways. :confused:

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Interesting results with the bleaching, and your series is really strong.

How do your negatives compare to either straight HC110 or straight Rodinal?

I love a negative with lots of contrast for my lith printing, but also for the Fotokemika Emaks and Varycon papers that need a kick in the rear to really start serving up their best performance.

- Thomas

hello everyone, new to the thread. check out my gallery ,look in the portfolios under michel demanche. Now to the question, I have a student that now works at a top black and white lab in new york. He came up with the mixture for all of my negs. It starts with HC110 as a first developer,at 1/2 time and 1/2 time in rodinal 1+30. It gives me the contrast I need and full even development. He calls it the moe mixture. Now these are normally dip tank 4X5's but when I do my own mixture here for my 120's I have the same results. I of course am finding rodinol hard to buy these days.
michel

 

[jamusu]

Well, guess we all get our thrills in different ways. :confused:

___________________________________________________________________

HuH?

Jamusu.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Yeah, that sounded a little bit harsh to me too. You would have to wonder what good that comment did to help advance the thread. Nothing like killing the excitement of others.

- Thomas

 

[Alan Johnson]

Since Mr Mackie first wrote about them 100 years ago, Mackie lines aka edge effects have interested some photographers.Here's my effort from Plus-X semi-stand in Rodinal 1:200 60min 68F, agitate at half time,0.1 in square section of negative. It shows a black card on a gray card and I hope it's possible to make out at the edge a darker line at the black side and a lighter line at the gray side.
Dilute Rodinal will do this but using Xtol first will eliminate the effect.

 

[msdemanche]

Thomas,
Thanks for the comments.
The straight rodinol is to harsh and the negs are bulletproof as they say. The hc110 gives a lower contrast but very even neg. I will try to find an image of the straight rodinol and one of the straight hc110 to show the differences.
The bleached images are 3 stops overexposed when I shoot them, so those negs are solid when developed. The bleach brings out the contrast, which is somewhat predictable, but burns, or blotches etc.
michel