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OK...I see now. I had trouble pin-pointing where it was. These are the darker spots on the right edge running down perpendicularly right?
These are happening because as you pour or drop your liquid, it immediately starts getting absorbed in the paper and by the time you put rod on the paper and begin coating, those areas already have additional sensitizer than the rest of the paper. The primary cause of this obviously is a highly absorbent paper so the choice of the paper is the first line of defense. For example, when I was using Arches Aquarelle water color paper, it was quite annoyingly dominant. Recently I started using COT 320 paper (smooth side) and no sign of it, using the classic (2% salt, 2% silver nitrate, 6% citirc acid with no sizing) recipe.
Adding a wetting agent would probably have the opposite effect, I am afraid, as the propensity for absorption into the paper will be even greater. You can alleviate the problem somewhat by reducing the time between pouring and starting the stroke of the rod. Perhaps put the rod on the paper first, then the liquid and start the coating right away (I have a habit of doing the pouring and then looking for the rod.) I would also think, adding a sizing agent should help if you are not already doing so - either on the paper as a pre-treatment or within the salt solution. But now you are changing the process characteristics. Or perhaps you can put an opaque material over the area in question in exposure and develop it out - if you can afford the real estate.
:Niranjan.
Is your rod wide enough to cover the area in one pass?
I have never done that (going in different directions with the rod). Starting in 2000 or so, I have been using a rod for pt/pd prints 4x5 to 11x14. I have used the 'live-edge' idea, also, but usually just for a rare image that calls for it...I usually do not compose in-camera for it. But it does save a little money not printing the full 11x14 negative!
I give the rod a little wriggle after loading it with solution along most its width with a syringe. This helps spread the solution along the rod and seems to reduce the coating from breaking up.
If there is a slight ridge of excess solution at the end of my last pass with the rod, I use a Q-tip to soak it up. Otherwise one ends up with a ridge of dry solution on top of the paper. This ridge increases the density of dry solution along it that can block some UV. This leaves a light line beneath it once the print is developed and that exposed and developed platinum on top of the paper floats off into one's tray. The platinum (and other similarly coated processes) need to be held by the fibers of the paper, not just sitting on top.
For a long while, I made two or three passes with the rod to define the coating area, than finish with a brush to get a even coat. I have gone back to just the rod. What works best depends on a combo of humidity, amount of solution used, the paper, patience, the process, and the phase of the moon, I swear!
My process usually involves coating inside the image area leaving a "live edge" border, so I have to start the pour somewhere inside the image area (ideally).
I'm actually not using any citric acid
Frankly, I don't see how you could ever prevent some sort of marks, density variation etc. by taking this approach. In fact, I think you got about as far as humanly possible the way you're doing it.
For further improvement, I would suggest looking at paper sizing mostly to manage the absorbance and adherence of the silver chloride to the surface. Trying different papers will help as well.
Very nice print BTW! Is that a salt print? It looks like a different kind of sensitizer; Van Dyke Brown perhaps?
Btw, contrary to @Vaughn, I do always do passes in opposite directions with the rod. Using a small excess of sensitizer helps to create a puddle that can be pushed back in the opposite direction after the first pass, filling in any gaps that might have occurred. This is the balancing act, as well: you either run a little lean on the sensitizer/silver nitrate and you run the risk of coating gaps. Or you use a little excess, but then you have a puddle to clean up and the point where that puddle collects after your last pass generally shows up in one way or another on the print. I tend to keep the start and end positions of the rod outside the image area to deal with this. Not an option if you want to coat everything within the image area, of course...
And you get no staining? If you don't, how can you tell if you don't print with masked borders? Just curious; I never managed to make a salt print that did not fog without adding some citric acid to the sensitizer. It doesn't necessarily show unless I mask the borders. It's the only way I know of to ensure I've got the process right.
20 passes and 5 minutes
a lot of the literature says the more silver you can put on the paper the better.
You must be using very resilient paper. If I would try this with my paper, I would seriously compromise the surface, with fibers becoming dislodged etc. And it would also mean much of the silver actually ends up embedded deeply into the paper where the fixer can't reach it very well. I have serious concerns about how well your prints can be fixed without bleaching them. Btw, drying time has very little to do with this.
I would disagree with that. You only need enough silver to reach desired dmax. Any excess will just (hopefully) wash and fix out. Your 40 drops sounds like you're erring slightly on the high side, although not ridiculously so; I need about 0.7ml of silver nitrate to coat a 5x6" area, after which I still need to dab up maybe 20-25% after a couple of passes with the coating rod.
I am using HPR, I had to do a lot of trial and error with paper humidity and sizing so that the paper will lie completely flat. If it does not lie completely flat and retain it's flexibility it will show where the rod has rubbed repeatedly on the surface. I also use very light pressure on the rod, basically no more than the weight of the rod itself.
I am fixing with neutral rapid fix in two baths of 5 minutes each, I have not observed any bleaching. Afterwards I hypoclear for 5 minutes and then wash for 1 hour with continuous agitation and water changes every 5 minutes.
Based on how much solution you are describing is left after a few coats I don't think we are using radically different amounts of solution, but I am basically continuing to push it until it's almost completely gone instead of trying to remove the excess. I also may have exaggerated as to the amount of passes it takes, I have never actually counted or timed it. I am also using a fairly strong size that I do a double coating of, so there is some barrier to the silver soaking in too far.
Have you done a study of how much density you are gaining for doing say 10 passes vs 20 passes, in your particular set of conditions? I have found that after a certain number, it does not change the density much as the limiting factor then is not the amount of silver but the self-masking effect or even bronzing, beyond which there is no gain in the Dmax.
:Niranjan.
I have not observed any bleaching
Is it safe to assume that if I don't notice any deterioration after a few months that it will probably never occur?
No, but I would not be surprised if you are correct that there is very little difference. I mainly started going down that road because I was so concerned (probably without much reason) that any blotting or other methods for removing the excess solution would leave a disturbance in the coating.
I have been doing prints for about 8 months and have a stack of probably 100 of them, I did wrestle with keeping a paper white initially (which would usually show immediately or once fully dried) but after a lot of refinements to my processing I have not notice any issue with the whites keeping clear. I do have a few prints that got some fixer splashed on them which turned an ugly brown / yellow - is that the effect that would happen across the entire print? I am always comparing the white of the non coated paper edge to the highlights in the image to ensure they are a similar brightness / color. Is it safe to assume that if I don't notice any deterioration after a few months that it will probably never occur?
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