Ricoh Auto Half

[Cholentpot]

You're fortunate. It's usually sunny here in so-cal, which means harsh shadows that are a pain. Washed out/grey means you can print at grade 3 or 4 with good results.

Grey is usually accompanied by cold wind and snow. But you're right about shadows, only the groundhog sees it.

 

[4season]

How weird to put a lens as fast as 2.8 on it and then not provide a way to even zone focus it.

Not at all: Minolta-16 cameras all had fixed focus lenses, as did some not-cheap panoramic cameras, while Minox and some medium format folding cameras had red-dot markings indicating where focus could be set-and-forgotten. Meanwhile, period emulsions tended to be grainier, and unless you were projecting slides, final output was probably a print smaller than my 640 x 480 JPEGs. These little compromises can work better than you'd think.

About the only way I'd be shooting at f/2.8 with the Ricoh is if I'm shooting with flash, or simply choose to ignore the low-light indicator. Either way, I'm probably not going to see much of anything in the distant background.

 

[BobD]

My Petri half-frame has a 2.8 lens too but it also has zone focusing.

 

[xkaes]

Not at all: Minolta-16 cameras all had fixed focus lenses,

That's what most people assume, but the Minolta 16 EE, EE2, and QT had focusing lenses. And the focusing "issue" is not a big deal on the MG and MG-s either because they had built-in sliding "close-up" lenses. Maybe not as easy as the Mamiya Super 16, but very workable.

 

[henryvk]

Original selenium photovoltaic cell was toast, so I replaced with modern silicon photovoltaic cell. Because the modern part has much higher output, I could get away with using a much smaller replacement. And by the time I placed this behind the plastic lens array and honeycomb grid, I was getting readings which looked decently close to what my handheld meter was indicating.

Hey, OP! I just got an Auto Half and I’d be interested to know what kind/size of cell you swapped the old one for and what the process looks like?

The meter on mine seemed to read a little low so I opened it up and found the interior scale next to the VF and a trim screw that… sets the tension for the needle? I’m not sure but it made the meter more sensitive or at least it increased the amplitude of the needle so that it went all the way to the end of the scale when holding the camera up to a bright lamp.

(I’ll add some pictures of the inside of the camera later.)

However, what this didn’t achieve was make the shutter close all the way to f22 in bright light, it only ever stops down to what I assume is f11. I’m not sure if this is an issue with the light meter itself or with the aperture moderator mechanism.

Another thing that happened is that I think I knocked the frame lines off center by slightly moving the beamsplitter while trying to clean it. Unfortunately, the VF assembly doesn’t come out with just the front cover off so I’ll have to remove the back too, I’m guessing. Everything’s tightly packed in that little camera but I’m looking forward to shooting it eventually… hopefully.

 

[4season]

Hey, OP! I just got an Auto Half and I’d be interested to know what kind/size of cell you swapped the old one for and what the process looks like?

I cut a crystalline silicon solar cell to roughly the correct size using a diamond-tipped glass cutter (~7 USD). Took me a number of tries before I got something usable, as the cells are hard and very brittle. New cell is quite a bit smaller than the original.

 

[gone]

We're always griping about why someone isn't building any new "real" film cameras anymore. But this very attractive and capable camera would sell like hotcakes if it were produced today at a reasonable price. The idea of getting 72 pics would be a huge selling point, and it looks stylish even today.

As soon as I saw rseason's thumbnail I thought, that looks a lot like somewhere in the American S/W. The daytime light is contrasty and clear, and at night you can look up and see what appears to be a million stars twinkling. It's just magical.

 

[henryvk]

I cut a crystalline silicon solar cell to roughly the correct size using a diamond-tipped glass cutter (~7 USD). Took me a number of tries before I got something usable, as the cells are hard and very brittle. New cell is quite a bit smaller than the original.

I just shot a roll of Color Plus with the Ricoh despite my suspicions about the meter, reasoning that even if exposure is somewhat off (in Germany, f22 at 1/125 would be a very bright winter day indeed) most film provides enough latitude to compensate. I just dropped off the roll, hopefully we'll know more in a couple of days.

I'm still considering a cell replacement, though, just because it sounds fun.

I'm afraid I have a potentially stupid question because I know very little about electronics: I researched replacing selenium cells and couldn't help but notice that on some meters the cell only has one lead or contact, while with the Auto Half there's two, one attached to the cell and one to the back plate. Tiny solar cells (15x4mm) can be gotten off eBay and they have solder pads on the back. Do I simply attach the correct polarities? Why do some meters only need one?

Regarding the size, I figure that either I'll "dim" the cell with window film or try some resistors.

Will ordinary solder hurt a silicon solar cell? I got some "wire glue" just in case.

 

[4season]

Do I simply attach the correct polarities? Why do some meters only need one?

Regarding the size, I figure that either I'll "dim" the cell with window film or try some resistors.

Will ordinary solder hurt a silicon solar cell? I got some "wire glue" just in case.

Both + and - are needed, but the metallic chassis of the device might be serving as a substitute for a second soldered wire.

Solder is fine. Probably wire glue would be too, but I have never tried it.

 

[henryvk]

So, I got my scans back. Most are good with a few overexposed ones which makes sense given that the meter is a bit sluggish. DOF seems narrow-ish, another indication that it's measuring low.

However, I'm impressed with how sharp a lot of the images are and, boy, is that camera fun to shoot just for the whirrrr of the clockwork. Mine is a bit tired too, a handful of half-turns only result in enough tension for maybe 5-6 pictures. I'm happy with the viewfinder alignment; it seems just right after I tilted the VF assembly down a smidge with a folded piece of paper wedged under where the back screw is and turning it ever so slightly to the left. Since everything is so small and close together there's virtually no parallax error.

The first picture got me yelled at by some boomer because I had to commit some light trespassing to capture it. The last picture is my boy, Hugh, holding his beloved "poom".

In conclusion: what a great little camera! I think I'll have to buy another one just so I have this first one to tinker with.

 

[Eric5299]

I just shot a roll of Color Plus with the Ricoh despite my suspicions about the meter, reasoning that even if exposure is somewhat off (in Germany, f22 at 1/125 would be a very bright winter day indeed) most film provides enough latitude to compensate. I just dropped off the roll, hopefully we'll know more in a couple of days.

Hi
I just bought a Ricoh Auto Half recently, the light meter is broken, and I am interested in replacing the solar battery. What kind of solar battery did you replace? How small is the cutting size? Have a related article or video?

 

[xkaes]

Do you mean that you want to replace the selenium metering cell? Except for the Auto Half EF & EF 2 (which had built-in electronic flashes), and the Auto Half SL (which had a CdS metering cell) -- the Auto Half cameras did not use batteries.

If you mean the selenium cell, there are a few places that sell cells, but It sounds like a difficult road.

 

[4season]

Hi
I just bought a Ricoh Auto Half recently, the light meter is broken, and I am interested in replacing the solar battery. What kind of solar battery did you replace? How small is the cutting size? Have a related article or video?

First make sure that the galvanometer (aka meter movement) is functional! I test these by connecting a weak camera battery and seeing if there is any movement. 0.5 volts @ very low current, in the microamp range, ought to suffice, but I just use an old LR44 cell.

Fortunately, the gavanometer in my camera tested fine, but the selenium solar cell was dead. I purchased a number of small bare silicon solar cells and cut them to size in this manner:

The cells are extremely fragile, and I needed several tries before I got something usable, and it was not so neat-looking, but it worked! Only maybe 1/4 the size of the original, but this is also fine, because crystalline solar cells are orders of magnitude more efficient than legacy selenium cells. Maximum voltage for either is about the same: 0.5 volts. But silicon produces a lot more amperage (which is no problem at all in this application).

It would have been much easier if I had used some sort of flexible photovoltaic cell, some of which can be cut with an ordinary pair of scissors. But I like old fashioned crystalline cells because they don't degrade much over time.

 

[4season]

Mine is a bit tired too, a handful of half-turns only result in enough tension for maybe 5-6 pictures.

That sounds about the same as mine. IIRC I can actually get 10 or more if I really wind it up, but mostly I'm satisfied with 5-6.

 

[blee1996]

Incidentally, I just shot my first roll of Kentmere 100 on the cute little Ricoh Auto Half. Overall very good experience, and even the exposure is reasonably correct. The lens can be very sharp, but do suffer some glare in extreme highlights. Maybe I should try to clean it, if there is any haze. Or it could be the less effective anti-halation layer on Kentmere 100 film. I will try different film, as well as trying to clean the lens. @4season : how do you keep the shutter open?

Ricoh_AutoHalf_Kentmere100_036_R by Zheng, on Flickr

Ricoh_AutoHalf_Kentmere100_004_R by Zheng, on Flickr

 

[4season]

@4season: how do you keep the shutter open?

I never tried to, because my lens looked reasonably clean. Mine has some "glow" around bright highlights too

 

[Roger Cole]

Incidentally, I just shot my first roll of Kentmere 100 on the cute little Ricoh Auto Half. Overall very good experience, and even the exposure is reasonably correct. The lens can be very sharp, but do suffer some glare in extreme highlights. Maybe I should try to clean it, if there is any haze. Or it could be the less effective anti-halation layer on Kentmere 100 film. I will try different film, as well as trying to clean the lens. @4season : how do you keep the shutter open?

Ricoh_AutoHalf_Kentmere100_036_R by Zheng, on Flickr

Ricoh_AutoHalf_Kentmere100_004_R by Zheng, on Flickr

There are some situations, and your first photo here is one of them, where I actually like some lens flare. I think it gives it a luminous quality that's very appealing.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

There are some situations, and your first photo here is one of them, where I actually like some lens flare. I think it gives it a luminous quality that's very appealing.

I'd chalk the bulk of this look up to the anti-halation characteristics of Kentmere, perhaps somehow attenuated by the smaller frame size. Note the amount of shadow detail in the first image compared to the second -- the highlights are much more heavily exposed in the first example and showcase halation effects along boundaries of high contrast.

 

[4season]

Considering that it's a half-frame 35 mm camera with fixed-focus lens, probably not multicoated, much less nano-coated, and @blee1996's photo is strongly backlit, I think it looks pretty darned good.

 

[blee1996]

Yes, I'm not complaining. This little camera is cute and has character. (and can be very sharp if needed)

 

[henryvk]

The lens flares pretty badly if you let it imo.

Mine has rosewood covers now btw:

 

[Eric5299]

Do you mean that you want to replace the selenium metering cell? Except for the Auto Half EF & EF 2 (which had built-in electronic flashes), and the Auto Half SL (which had a CdS metering cell) -- the Auto Half cameras did not use batteries.

If you mean the selenium cell, there are a few places that sell cells, but It sounds like a difficult road.

Yes, I want to try to replace the selenium cell, a camera with sensitive metering will bring more convenience

The message is translated through google translate, sorry if the meaning is not clear

 

[Eric5299]

First make sure that the galvanometer (aka meter movement) is functional! I test these by connecting a weak camera battery and seeing if there is any movement. 0.5 volts @ very low current, in the microamp range, ought to suffice, but I just use an old LR44 cell.

Fortunately, the gavanometer in my camera tested fine, but the selenium solar cell was dead. I purchased a number of small bare silicon solar cells and cut them to size in this manner:

The cells are extremely fragile, and I needed several tries before I got something usable, and it was not so neat-looking, but it worked! Only maybe 1/4 the size of the original, but this is also fine, because crystalline solar cells are orders of magnitude more efficient than legacy selenium cells. Maximum voltage for either is about the same: 0.5 volts. But silicon produces a lot more amperage (which is no problem at all in this application).

It would have been much easier if I had used some sort of flexible photovoltaic cell, some of which can be cut with an ordinary pair of scissors. But I like old fashioned crystalline cells because they don't degrade much over time.

Thanks for the battery specs and electrical expertise, I don't know anything about these, but I'll look into it and hopefully find the battery material and replacement

Thank you

The message is translated through google translate, sorry if the meaning is not clear

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Thanks for the battery specs and electrical expertise, I don't know anything about these, but I'll look into it and hopefully find the battery material and replacement

Thank you

The message is translated through google translate, sorry if the meaning is not clear

Simplified chinese is one thing, English is another

 

[xkaes]

If you experience "flare" try a lens shade.

Keep in mind that the Ricoh Auto Half was not just ONE model. There were several, and results can vary. They did not all have the same lens, although most used the same fixed-focus, 25mm f2.8 with auto-exposure only. Some had focusing lenses, some were faster. I prefer the Ricoh Caddy which uses the same 25mm f2.8 lens. It was a focusing lens, drops the spring-drive, and adds complete manual-exposure control.

http://www.subclub.org/shop/ricoh.htm