Rhdesigns Analyser Pro prints lack of contrast and soft / how to correctly measure highlights and shadows

I' m having difficulties finding the right spots for metering the highlights and the dark tones with the Analyser.
Just made a print. 47.8 seconds on grade 3. I had token the highlights on the horse under the belt, and the dark tones in the upper region (middle) of the image. To my surprise it did give me a relative big tonal range, contrary to the first image.( more then 10 steps). I then increased contrast. But the print was almost completely black.

Could you give me some advice on finding the right metering spots? I find it very hard to find a spot with detail ; since most of is blurred.

silvercloud2323 said:

I find it very hard to find a spot with detail ; since most of is blurred.

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The suggestion was made earlier to try a less compromised negative first. I second that suggestion.

This is a very interesting question and challenge for printing systems that rely on reading light levels projected onto t he easel. You will probably not like my answer, but, before you can benefit from such a system, you need to thoroughly test your materials, film and paper, though in this case, paper testing is more important. Then, you will be able to establish the important (to you) ranges of exposure and contrast. Here's an example of the kind of useful data you can produce. This can be used to program a more sophisticated timer to automate the process even further. I am not sure how your timer works with custom programming. Edit: I uploaded the wrong chart. This one is for the newer Oriental paper:

These charts will then guide you to make decisions regarding choosing the right paper grade (filtration) and exposure, including all the necessary dodging and burning, because they are made specifically for you and your materials. The total work required takes about an hour, but the benefits can be significant. I cannot describe the process in a short forum post, but I encourage you to read Way Beyond Monochrome, Beyond the Zone System, and all the awesome documentation provided on the Darkroom Automation website. You should be able to use your existing timer/analyzer with whatever paper exposure system you choose. They are all very similar, though the details do vary.

Hi everyone,
I am a new user of the RH analyser pro. Though i find it difficult metering the highlights and dark tones with the metering device.
What are your tips in finding the right highlight and dark tone to take a measurement from?

• no pure whites ,no pure blacks but tones with detail

silvercloud2323 said:

What are your tips in finding the right highlight and dark tone to take a measurement from?

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Have you seen this video for example?


It should get you started

MrclSchprs said:

Have you seen this video for example?


It should get you started

Click to expand...

Hi,

Some other question pops up that i don't find the answer in the video. When you put in the spots of the highlight value and the dark value with the metering probe.
Do you have to put these two points to the extremes of the bargraph? through manipulation of the exposure time and the contrast grade.
So i get a longer tonal range. From almost white to almost black.
Any help is welcome.

silvercloud2323 said:

Hi,

Some other question pops up that i don't find the answer in the video. When you put in the spots of the highlight value and the dark value with the metering probe.
Do you have to put these two points to the extremes of the bargraph? through manipulation of the exposure time and the contrast grade.
So i get a longer tonal range. From almost white to almost black.
Any help is welcome.

Click to expand...

To answer your question .... no, that is for you to decide.

If you would like to have zone 8.5 / 9 blacks and zone 1/2 (half) whites you would do exactly that. That is you go for the extremes of the bargraph.

On the other hand, if your scene does not have pure whites or pure blacks you make your own judgement where to put the highlight and shadow on the bargraph. The trick of the analyzer, or ZoneMaster, is that you train your brain to match the gray patches of the analyzer with the tonal values you would like to see in your print. It is not that difficult, but it requires some practice.

What helped me a lot was to print a well-known negative over and over again in different printing sessions using the brightest part of the negative as my first measuring point and selecting a different second (and sometimes third) point and fiddle around with the gray scale until I was satisfied. Careful note keeping in some form or the other is needed.

I consider the purchase of my ZoneMaster III, StopClock and the Heiland led cold light source to be my best photographic investment ever. The RH Design stuff is wonderful, but it does not give you instant magic. You'll need to make an initial effort to master it.

MrclSchprs said:

To answer your question .... no, that is for you to decide.

If you would like to have zone 8.5 / 9 blacks and zone 1/2 (half) whites you would do exactly that. That is you go for the extremes of the bargraph.

On the other hand, if your scene does not have pure whites or pure blacks you make your own judgement where to put the highlight and shadow on the bargraph. The trick of the analyzer, or ZoneMaster, is that you train your brain to match the gray patches of the analyzer with the tonal values you would like to see in your print. It is not that difficult, but it requires some practice.

What helped me a lot was to print a well-known negative over and over again in different printing sessions using the brightest part of the negative as my first measuring point and selecting a different second (and sometimes third) point and fiddle around with the gray scale until I was satisfied. Careful note keeping in some form or the other is needed.

I consider the purchase of my ZoneMaster III, StopClock and the Heiland led cold light source to be my best photographic investment ever. The RH Design stuff is wonderful, but it does not give you instant magic. You'll need to make an initial effort to master it.

Click to expand...

thx for your answer.

How determine what diaphragm(f-stop lens) of the enlarger to use for printing ?

silvercloud2323 said:

How determine what diaphragm(f-stop lens) of the enlarger to use for printing ?

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The sweet spot of even illumination and lack of diffraction. A good starting point is usually two stops from wide open. On e.g. an f/4 lens, use f/8.
Open up too wide and you'll likely have (some) reduced illumination in the corners. Stop down too far and diffraction eats away fine detail.

koraks said:

The sweet spot of even illumination and lack of diffraction. A good starting point is usually two stops from wide open. On e.g. an f/4 lens, use f/8.
Open up too wide and you'll likely have (some) reduced illumination in the corners. Stop down too far and diffraction eats away fine detail.

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Thx . I will try this night.

I am back with some good results. I had a wonderful print with the following settings.
Grade 4 / 29 seconds and F/16 lens aperture.

The dark tones are nice black. So it was possible with a blurred image to start from, without much detail.

I try to print another image but stumble upon something. The exposure indication value does Not change when reading the dark tones.
So when i read a highlight ,it shows an exposure indication but this exposure time keeps the same when making a second reading of the dark tones. I hope there is nothing wrong with the analyser.
Before it changed with the second reading.


I was working now, when i marked that the analyser does not give a density when i make a second reading.( it showed d 0,00)
But it does give me a positive density , when i make a third reading...?
Although the tonal difference between the first and second reading was significantly. So to my opinion it should have give a density reading in the second reading as well.

I write Rhdesigns sales email, but the mailbox seems unavailable...
Also i tried to mail them by the form on their website , but that also gives an error.

silvercloud2323 said:

I write Rhdesigns sales email, but the mailbox seems unavailable...
Also i tried to mail them by the form on their website , but that also gives an error.

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I believe the owner of RH Designs retired. As far as I know Secondhand Darkroom is now the official RH Designs support partner. Give them a call.

MrclSchprs said:

I believe the owner of RH Designs retired. As far as I know Secondhand Darkroom is now the official RH Designs support partner. Give them a call.

RH DESIGNS – Secondhand Darkroom

www.secondhanddarkroom.co.uk

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Thank you very much. Will contact them