RH Designs ZoneMaster meter and Pyrocat-HD

[JeffD]

Before I spend an evening testing for myself, I am wondering if anyone is using a ZoneMaster meter and Pyrocat-HD with multigrade paper, and can comment on whether they had to recalibrate for the differences in color of light vs traditional non stained negatives? What can I expect? different speed for my various "grades"? Different lenght of tonal scale for the different "grades"?

I know that theoretically there should be some difference, but it would be nice to hear from someone who has their Multigrade paper already calibrated to non staining negatives, and has tried negatives that have a colored stain.

BTW, I am primarily using Ilford Warmtone FB multigrade paper.

Thanks!

 

[Dave Miller]

A quote from the RH Designs website.

Q: I develop my negatives in a staining developer (e.g. Pyro). Will this have an effect?

A: We’ve found that, perhaps surprisingly, the stain doesn’t affect variable contrast papers very much. Its effects tend to be more pronounced on fixed grade papers. However, because of the nature of the stain it’s often inconsistent so the best advice we can offer is to “try it and see”!

Any help?

 

[JeffD]

However, because of the nature of the stain it’s often inconsistent so the best advice we can offer is to “try it and see”!

Any help?

Kind of. Was hoping other people had already tried it and seen!

 

[Dave Miller]

In that case a bump to the top won't go amiss.

 

[noseoil]

Jeff, there are so many variables in this question, the best answer is to just do it and see what you get. I have found that, even if you use some one else's numbers as a reference point, your eye is the final judge anyway. Pyrocat is a great developer, so a bit of tinkering is in order, but this is one where your playing with the times will pay off in the long run. Check threads on various agitation, dilution and other factors people have tried. There's a lot of information out there now with Sandy's formula. You will likely get many different answers, but the best one will come from your experience with things and your personal methods of development and printing. tim

 

[JeffD]

Jeff, there are so many variables in this question, the best answer is to just do it and see what you get. I have found that, even if you use some one else's numbers as a reference point, your eye is the final judge anyway. Pyrocat is a great developer, so a bit of tinkering is in order, but this is one where your playing with the times will pay off in the long run. Check threads on various agitation, dilution and other factors people have tried. There's a lot of information out there now with Sandy's formula. You will likely get many different answers, but the best one will come from your experience with things and your personal methods of development and printing. tim

Thanks for the response. I am comfortable that I can figure out an appropriate time and agitation, and get usable negatives. I was mainly interested in other people's use of the the RH Designs printing meter, and whether the stain will confuse the meter, and cause much error in the times and paper grades that it advises, when compared to using a non-stained negative.

 

[Blighty]

Jeff,
I use a Zonemaster calibrated for normal (non stained) negs. I also use it for stained negs (dixactol & Exactol lux). The stain does affect the meter to some extent. The meter tends to give times that are to short, typically around 1/4 of a stop. Richard Ross (of RH Designs fame) has explained to me that if the stain in your negs is consistent from film to film then (re)calibration should be easy enough.