RH Designs Vario Timer, defective spare sensor cable

[mshchem]

I have two of these wonderful timers, never have had a single problem. I bought one of the two timers earlier this year, plugged it in, works perfectly.

I decided instead of switching the sensor cable between 2 ( and sometimes 3) Zone VI VC cold light heads, I would buy a couple spare cables.

I spent 30£ each on the identical cables and 60£ on shipping for 2 cables. They didn't work, I thought I was losing my mind.

I got out my multimeter, long story, who ever made up these cables got the two sensor wires reversed compared to the (perfectly correct original)

I bought everything from Secondhand Darkroom Supplies in the UK, I'm sure they will make it right. The spares look different, have metal pin connectors instead of the original plastic. Also all three conductors are wired to the pins, where on the original 1 pin is unused.

Just a heads up, in case like, at first you think you're nuts.

 

[mshchem]

I exchanged e-mail messages with a couple of fellows at Secondhand Darkroom today, I think they believe me. They will make sure that I get the right cables. I quadruple checked the new cables, my multimeter and 3 different Zone VI heads and 2 Stopclock timers verified that the 2 new cables are screwy.
I'm posting this so 5 years from now (or 5 weeks) I can remember this.

If you have any sort of a cold light or a dimmer etc, these timers are the greatest thing ever, I have Metrolux II timers (no longer made) those are fabulous as well.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

On a 3 conductor phone (headphone) plug the connections are "sleeve", "ring" and "tip".

 

[mshchem]

On a 3 conductor phone (headphone) plug the connections are "sleeve", "ring" and "tip".

Thanks, I couldn't remember the nomenclature

 

[john_s]

Some time ago I wrote to Richard Ross about getting an extra sensor for my Stopclock Vario setup and he wrote this:

<start of quote>
We sell sensor assemblies for exactly this reason - you can have more than one enlarger. However if you prefer to make your own you'll need a EG+G Vactec VTB8440BH photodiode with IR filtering.
More info at
http://uk.farnell.com/eg-g-vactec/vtb8440bh/photodiode-ir-filtered/dp/1182340?Ntt=118-2340
Wire it so that the pin with the polarity dot goes to the outer pole of the jack plug.
Kind regards
Richard
<end of quote>

 

[mshchem]

Some time ago I wrote to Richard Ross about getting an extra sensor for my Stopclock Vario setup and he wrote this:

<start of quote>
We sell sensor assemblies for exactly this reason - you can have more than one enlarger. However if you prefer to make your own you'll need a EG+G Vactec VTB8440BH photodiode with IR filtering.
More info at
http://uk.farnell.com/eg-g-vactec/vtb8440bh/photodiode-ir-filtered/dp/1182340?Ntt=118-2340
Wire it so that the pin with the polarity dot goes to the outer pole of the jack plug.
Kind regards
Richard
<end of quote>

Excellent information! This forum serves as a great repository of photography!

 

[mshchem]

The saga continues. I received two replacement cables today, these don't work and 1 cable acts differently than the other. I sent an email to secondhand Darkroom Supplies. I suspect that they are closed until January 3rd.

I have a brand new timer and an older timer both act the same. The original cable that came with the New Blue paint timer works great, it's the cables that 2nd hand are making themselves that do not work. Must be a cost savings

Best Regards Mike

 

[awty]

So you have stereo jack going to a three point DIN plug and you cant find someone to connect the wires correctly?
Hard to see how someone could muck that up considering you have a diagram of the correct wiring.
Maybe connecting the third wire has caused a problem, or they have the wires around the wrong way.
How did you test for continuity in the first post, did you use a DMM?
Anyone with some basic soldering skills should be able to make one, parts are only about $10

 

[mshchem]

So you have stereo jack going to a three point DIN plug and you cant find someone to connect the wires correctly?
Hard to see how someone could muck that up considering you have a diagram of the correct wiring.
Maybe connecting the third wire has caused a problem, or they have the wires around the wrong way.
How did you test for continuity in the first post, did you use a DMM?
Anyone with some basic soldering skills should be able to make one, parts are only about $10

I made up cables for my Metrolux II timer, I could have done the same for the Stopclock but I don't have a proper soldering iron and I thought I would spoil myself. I may be forced to repair the now 4 cables that I have. Probably don't have much call for these cables. I'm sure they will come through. I rechecked all of these cables, thought I was going crazy. Secondhand Darkroom did confirm from photos I sent that the 1st pair were not correct.

 

[mshchem]

I have two of these wonderful timers, never have had a single problem. I bought one of the two timers earlier this year, plugged it in, works perfectly.

I decided instead of switching the sensor cable between 2 ( and sometimes 3) Zone VI VC cold light heads, I would buy a couple spare cables.

I spent 30£ each on the identical cables and 60£ on shipping for 2 cables. They didn't work, I thought I was losing my mind.

I got out my multimeter, long story, who ever made up these cables got the two sensor wires reversed compared to the (perfectly correct original)

I bought everything from Secondhand Darkroom Supplies in the UK, I'm sure they will make it right. The spares look different, have metal pin connectors instead of the original plastic. Also all three conductors are wired to the pins, where on the original 1 pin is unused.

Just a heads up, in case like, at first you think you're nuts.

FYI, I've been working with a very nice engineer responsible for this equipment. The first cables had the wires flipped, the second cables were not correct because of my error.
We finally figured out we could open the one that worked. We have it sorted out now, I expect to have correct cables soon. The Vario works splendid with the correct cable, only way to go with cold lights.