RH designs timers

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Firestarter

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I have not had a proper darkroom for quite a few years. when I did before I always used the normal type of timers which counted in seconds. I am now at a stage (and age) where I really feel I am taking some nice photographs that I want to print to the best standard possible. I have purchased everthing I need for my new darkroom apart from a timer and after some study I really think an F stop timer is for me and what I want to achieve.

I have been looking at the RH deigns timers and am thinking about buying the Stopclock professional but there is also an Analyser pro model and this is my dilemma. Which is the better timer if you want to make the best possible prints. I don't mind having to make my own test prints etc and personally believe my eye will be better than a meter at judging the best exposure etc for a given negative.

Do I go stopclock Pro or Analyser pro. I have been looking at the RH website but what are the pros and cons of each timer.

I think RH are on this forum so maybe you can advise.

Thankyou.
 

Tim Gray

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The Stopclock is awesome. It has two channels so you can do split grade printing. I bought it planning to get the separate analyzer unit, but haven't done that yet. To be honest, for the kind of printer I am at this stage, the analyzer pro would probably have helped me out more. However, I'm totally happy with the Stopclock, and I should probably making test strips anyway to improve my skills/eye.

If you are thinking of doing split grade printing, get the Stopclock.
 

rmann

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My vote would be for the analyser - the meter functions are a plus that you will probably grow to like, if for nothing else than speeding up the process of test strip printing - It will also take density readings - and its not that much more than the plain timer.
 

jeroldharter

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I use the Stopclock Pro and recommend that model. The analyzer would be helpful if you were trying to print many negatives fast, with little waste. For fine prints, you will do tests anyway and the time/materials savings will be less. The Stopclock has more timer functions (as I recall) that are useful for split printing, etc.
 

coriana6jp

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I have had mine for three years now, it is great. You will never look at another timer again, I think.

Gary
 

Ken N

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Without hesitation I recommend the StopClock Professional. For metering you can get the ZoneMaster II, but do not shortcut on the timer. The StopClock Professional is in a league all its own. You'll never regret that purchase.
 

El Gringo

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Recently I upgraded my enlarger to a DeVere 504 and because of the Transtab unit I had to use the standard timer for a while as you need to buy a special cable to connect the RH timer up to it. During this time I really missed the StopClock Pro, its just so much more convenient compared to a simple timer; even if you don't use the splitgrade functions the f/stop steps in timing are a godsend (plus the dry down compensation, test strip maker etc). I really don't think you'd regret getting one.
 

André E.C.

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I also own the Stopclock Pro, top device, couldn't see myself without one now, a true joy to use. I plan to add a ZoneMaster II meter to my existing setup when financially possible.

Get one, you're going to love it!
 

Dan Henderson

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I too am a great fan of the Stopclock Pro. You would have a big fight on your hands if you tried to take mine from me. I have never used the Analyzer Pro, but from what I understand I do not think that model would be an advantage to me. I don't mind making the 2 test strips it takes me to get the highlight and shadow exposures I want.
 

jp80874

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I don’t see mention of what type head your enlarger will have, diffusion, cold light, etc. If it is cold light I highly recommend the Stop Clock Vario with a probe to measure the amount of light output making it easier to make changes that reflect your intention. I have had the Vario several years and have been very happy with the RH Design product. If you search here and the LF Forum, you will find many happy users. If RH doesn’t see the thread and respond, go to the site and request information by email. He is very helpful.

John Powers
 

David Brown

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... even if you don't use the splitgrade functions the f/stop steps in timing are a godsend (plus the dry down compensation, test strip maker etc). I really don't think you'd regret getting one.

Ditto. I was introduced to the StopClock by Les McLean at one of his workshops. I saw the advantages, but didn't buy one until a few months later when the timer I had suffered a sudden (an inexplicable) death. Karma? :tongue:

Anyway, f stop timing, especially for test strips, is a revelation.
 
OP
OP

Firestarter

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Thankyou for all the replies.

I had been leaning more towards the stopclock pro than the analser model .

I actually have 2 enlargers, one condenser, beseler 23cII and one diffusion, LPL C7700 . From what I have read on the RH website the standard stopclock pro will work fine with both. Don't think I will be buying two though :smile:

I might start a darkroom build thread to show it's progress once it gets underway.
 

Ken N

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Recently I upgraded my enlarger to a DeVere 504 and because of the Transtab unit I had to use the standard timer for a while as you need to buy a special cable to connect the RH timer up to it. During this time I really missed the StopClock Pro, its just so much more convenient compared to a simple timer; even if you don't use the splitgrade functions the f/stop steps in timing are a godsend (plus the dry down compensation, test strip maker etc). I really don't think you'd regret getting one.

You can do what I did. Mount the supplied connector on a power-strip. Plug the enlargers into the one power strip. I customized two power-strips--one for the enlargers the other for the safelights.

Ken
 

Robert Hall

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I have more than a few enlargers. I have clocks for all of them but find that I move my RH clocks around (I have 2 and want yet another) to be on the particular enlarger I am working on at the moment. I probably have used them for over 10 maybe close to 15 years now. It's been a while regardless. Their designs have helped my printing in the darkroom more than anything else.

A bit pricey, but worth every penny.
 

jeroldharter

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...
I actually have 2 enlargers, one condenser, beseler 23cII and one diffusion, LPL C7700 . From what I have read on the RH website the standard stopclock pro will work fine with both. Don't think I will be buying two though :smile:
....

I use mine with two enlargers. The electrical connection is like a computer cord. I bought two short adapter cords from RH Designs and have one one each enlarger cord. Not necessary but it works a little smoother than fiddling with only one adapter.
 

RH Designs

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Hi Firestarter

The StopClock is the one for you if you want to make the finest possible prints, as its two channels, memories and finer resolution offer you more control. The timer part of the Analyser is simpler, it has one channel and no programmable sequences although there is a clever burn-in feature. If you want to add exposure metering, buy a ZoneMaster II to go with your StopClock; you can use the meter to get a work print quickly and then use the StopClock to refine it. The ZoneMaster's metering is identical to the Analyser's.
 

Tim Gray

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I didn't realize the Analyser doesn't have programmable sequences. They rock. Get the StopClock.
 

Ken N

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Not to place too fine a point on it...

I'll give up Black and White Photography before I give up my Stopclock Pro.
 

L Gebhardt

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I liked the Analyser 500 but ended up getting a Stop CLock 500 because I felt to limited by the Analyser. The lack of dry down support and the programmable steps really were limiting. I do miss getting a quick base exposure without test strips, but it's worth the trade off. Ideally they could make one device to it all.
 

NickG

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Stop Clock Pro

I've found that the dry down compensation doesn't work... Anyone else found this? Maybe the timer is faulty..??
 

El Gringo

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I've found that the dry down compensation doesn't work... Anyone else found this? Maybe the timer is faulty..??

The mistake I made when I first tried to use this feature was to figure out what percentage I needed (in this cae 8%) and then set the drydown compensation to +8% rather than -8%! The end result, as you might imagine was a print 8% darker when wet, let alone when it had dried.

Luckily that printing session only cover a few test prints on FB; I managed to rectify the mistake and have been happy ever since.
 

RalphLambrecht

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I've found that the dry down compensation doesn't work... Anyone else found this? Maybe the timer is faulty..??

Depending on the paper, dry-down roughly adds 1/12 stop of apparent exposure to the highlights, which must be deducted from the main exposure time. What is your timer deducting?
 
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