Rewiring a Focomat 1a- help!

Howdy gentlemen.

I recently picked up a Focomat 1a that needed some attention and I am getting around to it this weekend. It of course had some bad wiring. I took apart the lamphousing and managed to find all the springs afterwards (oops) but I am stuck at getting the socket apart so I can rewire it. Anyone know how this thing comes apart? Any help would be much appreciated. It is a 1a and not a 1c but the date on the lens puts it at 1949. Here is the socket-

I do not know this one.

But typically german Edison fixtures of that size have a blocking lever inside the thread.
A brass lever sticking out from the base plate arrests in a ratchet-manner at ribs of the outer Bakelite ring.
Just bend that lever back during one turn or so and you can further twist off that ring without a problem.

Thanks AgX.

Here is what the inside of the socket looks like. I am assuming I have to pull that out, but am not sure how to go about it. Any suggestions?

Got it! It just screws off. Duh! I didn't see the join between the two halves because of dirt so I thought it was one molded piece. That is my excuse and I am sticking to it.

Here it is apart for posterity-

No excuse accepted... I even could take them apart when I was a child and there was no Apug around...
But I guess we grown-ups lack imagination.

Hi Robert,

I also acquired an Axomat 1a recently but it is missing it's baseboard. Everything else appears to be in place. A previous owner has 'upgraded' the bulb to a 150w from the 75 w that is recommended. I guess they didn't like waiting for the longer exposure times with lower wattage bulb. I'll have to see if can source a lower wattage photoflood type bulb.

If your enlarger has the original baseboard could you please measure the overall dimensions for me. I have seen from pictures that the baseboard tapers at the back where the column is mounted. I'm not concerned with taper dimensions just overall length and width. I want to make sure that at maximum enlargement I have enough room at the front of the baseboard to place the easel.

TIA,
Martin

Oops, got my Focomats and Axomats mixed up.

(I also have a Focomat V35 which is nearly ready for use.)

A friend gave me the Axomat 1a for Christmas and I'm trying to fix it up to pass it on. I also need to sort out a filter tray to go under the lens for use with multigrade papers. There is a sort of clamp on filter holder included but it looks a bit unstable.

If anyone knows the dimensions of the baseboard for the Axomat 1a I'd still like to know. Otherwise I'll use the Mk 1 eyeball and err on the long side when cutting the baseboard.

Patrick, how are Edison fixtures designed at your side of the pond?

AgX said:

Patrick, how are Edison fixtures designed at your side of the pond?

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Fixtures like this in the US are almost always one piece which is what probably threw me off. I thought it was molded together and I had to pull out the guts. The enlarger is definitely from Europe since it is marked 250v. The lens was an Elmar with a serial number from 1949. I have the thing cleaned up now and the condenser was perfect which was a nice surprise. The only problem I have now is the baseboard is a little warped (bowed in the middle a few millimeters) so I am going to have to deal with that. As it is now I can't get it aligned without shimming the heck out of the column. I am thinking the easiest fix is to whip out the belt sander when I get a chance and see if I can rectify the warp. I might park my Jeep on the baseboard for a day or two. That might straighten it out. I might just end up building a new baseboard, but that would be a bit of a pain since I would like to keep the easel locking mechanism and I don't have a router which would mean a lot of hand work.

The trials and tribulations of using old crap.

It is the first time I hear about a Leitz baseboard that is warped. Are you sure?

Anyway, I also wonder if you could replace it with a 1C baseboard? If you want we could look into the sizes, the lock system in particular . . . you could post pictures here, also of the enlarger itself so we know what you've got . . .

Michael

Hilo said:

It is the first time I hear about a Leitz baseboard that is warped. Are you sure?

Anyway, I also wonder if you could replace it with a 1C baseboard? If you want we could look into the sizes, the lock system in particular . . . you could post pictures here, also of the enlarger itself so we know what you've got . . .

Michael

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I am sure it is warped. Keep in mind this thing is 65 years old. It could have spent 40 years of it's life in someone's garage with something heavy on it. It isn't warped a lot, but it is enough to make the alignment off. Granted I am used to perfect alignment since my other enlarger is a Saunders 4550XL and I use a Versalab laser for alignment. After shimming it a bit it is about a halfish centimeter off of perfect on the Versalab at an 8x10 size, but to me that is a lot. Maybe it isn't in real life, but it has been a long time since I enlarged anything without the enlarger being perfect dead nuts on.

I don't think I can use a 1c baseboard because from what I understand the column is a different size and the base of the column is a different shape. The 1a is round with only one nut in the center and the 1c is more triangular with bolts which of course is a better design. I thought about putting screws through the base to make it more adjustable, but I think it would be easier to just fix the baseboard or fabricate a new one. I am guessing though that the 1a I have is one of the last ones they made before the 1c. The lamphouse tilts back on it and the tilt mechanism looks like the early 1c's. The serial # of the Elmar it came with puts it in 1949 and the 1c came out in 1950 from what I understand.

I am leaning towards doing the simple fix of parking my Jeep on the baseboard overnight to see if it will straighten out. To be honest, if I had a router I would just make a new baseboard with a formica top. That would be the best scenario, but I am a bit lazy and this is a second enlarger. I don't really need it, but I couldn't pass it up and thought it would be fun to have one.

One of the surprises with the enlarger was the easel. I though all 8x10 Leitz easels were wood, but the one I have appears to be made of some type of metal. It doesn't respond to a magnet so I have no idea what it is made of. It weighs a ton though.

Yes, half a centimeter is way too much. Just imagine how much that would be with 20X24! (which is what I do often)

To have a second enlarger just for 135 film is great. And maybe this one will surprise you. If it is anything near the 1c, you will be ok. In the end I would always try to find the 1c if I were you.

Patrick Robert James said:

The trials and tribulations of using old crap.

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You are telling me...

My Ia lamp holder plugs into the top of the column, so there'd be two runs of cable to replace. Is yours like that ?

Also, if memory serves, the Ia ceased production in the 1920's. It is likely that the Elmar you have is much newer than the enlarger.

I have focomat 1a from 1936 and it does not need any rewireing. Its built quality, including wires, is far better than
my valoy 2 from sixties.

Shoot6x7- The 1a I have is the same in regards to the wiring. Since all the wires were rotten I took them all out and wired it straight to the socket. There really isn't a need for all the extra wires unless you want to keep it original.

According to what I have read the Focomat 1a was built until 1950. The Focomat without lettering was built before it, back in the 30s.

I like the idea of the Jeep. If you try that you might consider sanding the center area of the bottom too.
Thinning it and wetting* it before you park the car may help.

*I really don't know about wetting the bottom, that may worsen your problem.

Patrick Robert James said:

According to what I have read the Focomat 1a was built until 1950. The Focomat without lettering was built before it, back in the 30s.

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Been a while since I consulted the Hove Book or the J.L. Lager Volumes

After you straighten it you may want to put a couple of pieces of angle iron or angled aluminum to keep it from
warping again.
My 1C and llC both have wooden braces to prevent warping. Did yours warp in spite of these?

John, do you mean by wooden braces the "wooden beams" that run from front to the back, underneath the baseboard? I doubt the 1a would have come with these.

Isn't it only the white formica baseboard of the later grey 1C that has those? And yes, the IIC . . .

Michael

For anyone following along with this thread I ended up cutting a new baseboard out of some 5/8" plywood I had laying around and I picked up a spade bit (1-1/8") for the column hole. I reinforced it with a couple of 2x4s. After I was done it was only out by a little so a small shim did the trick. It is together and in place and I even adjusted the autofocus to match a Fujinon EX that I have found to be a pretty spectacular lens. I am only going to be using it for 5x7s and 6x9s so the autofocus isn't that important to me, but it is working after some back and forth adjustment.

I also put the original baseboard under a tire with a roofing square under one end of it. The weather is supposed to change here a bit in the next few days, so that should help "adjust" the wood. The original baseboard was simply three layers of solid wood 1" thick. There were no braces on it. I am not sure how braces could be fitted with the clamping mechanism.

One thing I am curious about is if I am missing a tube like piece that goes above the condenser? I have seen pictures of lamphouses in pieces and there seemed to be a tube piece with a reflective inner surface that looks as if it directs light down to the condenser. Anyone know?

Patrick Robert James said:

One thing I am curious about is if I am missing a tube like piece that goes above the condenser? I have seen pictures of lamphouses in pieces and there seemed to be a tube piece with a reflective inner surface that looks as if it directs light down to the condenser. Anyone know?

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I only know the lamp heads of the early and later 1c and 2c enlargers, but all that comes to mind is a tube that comes out of, or is connected to the socket. Let's say it sits around the screw thread of the bulb. I am also not sure if what you describe can make sense: there is not much space between the bulb and the condenser. But perhaps the 1a was built differently.

Leitz constantly changed small things during production. For instance, for the 1c I know of four different plugs for the lamp head's wire into the column. That also means four different sockets. That means the position of the small screw holes in the column to fix the sockets changes too. There are also different variations for the mechanism that attaches the lamp socket and wire into the lamp head.

Hilo said:

John, do you mean by wooden braces the "wooden beams" that run from front to the back, underneath the baseboard? I doubt the 1a would have come with these.

Isn't it only the white formica baseboard of the later grey 1C that has those? And yes, the IIC . . .

Michael

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AYUP! That's what I meant.
The black lC (wooden baseboard)also had them. I assumed that they were needed to provide clearance for the easel locking thingy on the la. The llC has a more or less "V" shape brace on the bottom with a foot
in each corner that the enlarger actually rest on.
If he flattens it or makes one from ply I don't think it would be a bad idea to incorporate a set.

***The original baseboard was simply three layers of solid wood 1" thick. There were no braces on it. I am not sure how braces could be fitted with the clamping mechanism."
The brace on the lever side had a groove that the locking lever fit through. Natcherly I'm assuming
they used the same style lock.

John Koehrer said:

AYUP! That's what I meant.
The black lC (wooden baseboard)also had them. I assumed that they were needed to provide clearance for the easel locking thingy on the la. The llC has a more or less "V" shape brace on the bottom with a foot
in each corner that the enlarger actually rest on.

Click to expand...

John,

It is not very important. And it is just because I have quite a Focomat obsession. I have in use two wooden baseboards 1C's and none have beams, but just the rubber feet. Then I have a couple more such baseboards stored, same story. Of course my grey 1c does have the beams, and so does my black 2c. I wonder if you saw a variation with the beams. It would not surprise me, Leitz changed things all the time.

Anyway, your remarks about the beams made me realise something I never had: that they also serve to keep the board straight. I never thought about it much and just assumed they were a solution for the electrical story underneath the base boards . . .

Michael