Reversing an enlarging lens or a normal lens?

[Laci Toth]

Hi all,

I’d like to scan my negatives both 35 and 120 and wondering about using a DSLR. I’ve read about reversing an enlarging lens because of its ability to do macro but how a Takumar 55mm f1.8 on a bellows would work, both normal and reversed way?

 

[Ian C]

While a normal lens (reversed for best performance) can be used for macro work, the best results are obtained with a flat-field close-focus lens, such as an enlarging, process, or macro lens. These three different names reflect their intended use, but are essentially the same type of lens.

“Best results” in this case means better center-to-corner focus agreement due to flatter field. Close-focusing flat-field lenses also produce greater resolution of fine detail than a standard type camera lens used in macro work.

I’ve gotten excellent results in using various enlarging lenses with my Nikon SLRS with a Nikon bellows unit. The lenses were used reversed. That was necessary due to the connecting hardware I have. The connecting hardware items I used are: Nikon BR-2A Lens Reversing Ring and various step-up rings (40.5 mm to 52 mm for my EL Nikkors from 50 mm to 105 mm, and 43 mm to 52 mm for use with my 80 mm Rodagon enlarging lens).

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37171-REG/Nikon_2657_BR_2A_Lens_Reversing_Ring.html

A less-expensive version.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...mount_52mm_nikf_52mm_filter_thread_macro.html

Step-up rings.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/809750-REG/Sensei_sur40_552_40_5_52mm_Step_Up_Ring.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/809758-REG/Sensei_sur4352_43_52mm_Step_Up_Ring.html

I have used the Sensei step-up rings. They’re well made.

The fully-closed length of the bellows unit will limit the magnification range with a 50 mm lens. So, for photographing a medium format film you will likely have to use a lens of 80 mm or longer, depending upon the particular format.

 

[Laci Toth]

While a normal lens (reversed for best performance) can be used for macro work, the best results are obtained with a flat-field close-focus lens, such as an enlarging, process, or macro lens. These three different names reflect their intended use, but are essentially the same type of lens.

“Best results” in this case means better center-to-corner focus agreement due to flatter field. Close-focusing flat-field lenses also produce greater resolution of fine detail than a standard type camera lens used in macro work.

I’ve gotten excellent results in using various enlarging lenses with my Nikon SLRS with a Nikon bellows unit. The lenses were used reversed. That was necessary due to the connecting hardware I have. The connecting hardware items I used are: Nikon BR-2A Lens Reversing Ring and various step-up rings (40.5 mm to 52 mm for my EL Nikkors from 50 mm to 105 mm, and 43 mm to 52 mm for use with my 80 mm Rodagon enlarging lens).

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37171-REG/Nikon_2657_BR_2A_Lens_Reversing_Ring.html

A less-expensive version.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...mount_52mm_nikf_52mm_filter_thread_macro.html

Step-up rings.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/809750-REG/Sensei_sur40_552_40_5_52mm_Step_Up_Ring.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/809758-REG/Sensei_sur4352_43_52mm_Step_Up_Ring.html

I have used the Sensei step-up rings. They’re well made.

The fully-closed length of the bellows unit will limit the magnification range with a 50 mm lens. So, for photographing a medium format film you will likely have to use a lens of 80 mm or longer, depending upon the particular format.

Thanks for your response!
I’ve to add that this m42 Pentax lens will be attached to a m42 bellows unit and the other end would attach to the Nikon dslr.
The reason for this is that I want to take shots of film negatives to have them in a digital format. I’ve read that I can’t focus to infinity but in this case it doesn’t matter.
I found m42 to F mount adapters and wondering if it will work?
So does the dslr needs electrical connection or not?

 

[lantau]

Thanks for your response!
I’ve to add that this m42 Pentax lens will be attached to a m42 bellows unit and the other end would attach to the Nikon dslr.
The reason for this is that I want to take shots of film negatives to have them in a digital format. I’ve read that I can’t focus to infinity but in this case it doesn’t matter.
I found m42 to F mount adapters and wondering if it will work?
So does the dslr needs electrical connection or not?

The difficulty of that setup would be the need to touch the lens (or any part of the setup) for critical focusing. The image will move as if you had a massive earthquake.

Vibration is generally the biggest enemy of repro scanning. I'm using a tethered setup and a Kaiser copy stand. At 10x magnification on the computer screen, for focusing, I can see the vibration coming from the building. I'm surprised it's working at all. With my first, cheap copy stand I could see waves in straight lines.

 

[Laci Toth]

The difficulty of that setup would be the need to touch the lens (or any part of the setup) for critical focusing. The image will move as if you had a massive earthquake.

Vibration is generally the biggest enemy of repro scanning. I'm using a tethered setup and a Kaiser copy stand. At 10x magnification on the computer screen, for focusing, I can see the vibration coming from the building. I'm surprised it's working at all. With my first, cheap copy stand I could see waves in straight lines.

I’ll use self timer to reduce the moves as much as I can. Mirror slap can be an issue though. I’m still thinking about it and gathering infos for the best possible setup.

 

[Ian C]

Mirror and shutter vibration can be totally eliminated if you set up in a darkened room and back-illuminate the film with flash. Secure the camera to a tripod or copy stand.

Determine the exposure ahead of time. Open the shutter on Bulb. Fire the flash with its TEST button. Close the shutter. Restore the room lights.

You can also do this with continuous light by feeding the lights through an enlarger timer. After opening the shutter, trigger the timer to run the lights for the necessary time. When the timer switches off the subject illumination, close the shutter and turn on the room lights.

I’ve done this both ways many times.

 

[lantau]

I’ll use self timer to reduce the moves as much as I can. Mirror slap can be an issue though. I’m still thinking about it and gathering infos for the best possible setup.

Sorry, I was misleading. The shaking on operating the focus will interfere with your ability to see what you are doing.

The vibrations in the resting system will interfere with recording.