I just finished rebuilding a beautiful Ranger 9 I got off EBay. The needle was moving but did not zero out; this is a typical failure mode of the 50+ year old CdS cell.
So I decided to take it apart and replace the CdS, as well of the need for Mercury or Silver Oxide batteries. The reason you needed those to begin with, is because the Voltage needs to be constant during the lifetime of the battery. Since there was some space inside the meter, I decided to add a tiny Voltage Regulator so I could use easily available CR1632, stack them for 6V, and give the regulator plenty of room to regulate the exact 2.7V needed to drive this circuit. This means that the V will be precisely 2.7V until the two batteries are almost completely drained.
The complete reconstruction guide can be found below. Note that you will need to 3D print some parts and you can do this almost anywhere nowadays, like your public Library etc. I used PETG but you can probably do this with PLA if you make sure not to subject the meter to a high temperatures (above 50C), which you shouldn't be doing anyway ! Don't leave your equipment in your car on a hot summer day for example.
I'm working on modifying a PC board ( link to the regulator ) to output 5.4V for mercury battery replacement. The issue at hand is the PC board is using SD8942 with two resistors to set the voltage. All fine, but my specific problem is as such: I'd like JLPCB to make the board and install the...
Oh !! so sorry for that !!
It's a tiny Pololu DC-DC
I forgot to put that part in the guide.
It's ideal because of the size, low power consumption and the voltage range. Note that if you don't have a power switch (the Ranger 9 automatically closes the circuit when you press the read button), you should add a switch to your circuit and use the control line which I didn't use.
Give me a few mins to update it and add that part.
I'm working on modifying a PC board ( link to the regulator ) to output 5.4V for mercury battery replacement. The issue at hand is the PC board is using SD8942 with two resistors to set the voltage. All fine, but my specific problem is as such: I'd like JLPCB to make the board and install the...
Checkout the size of the Pololu S7V8A I used, maybe it fits in your design. I think you're better off with a DC-DC like this one that will do step-up and step-down and if you give it enough V (e.g. 3x CR1632 = 9V) you could easily and very efficiently regulate 5.4V throughout the whole lifetime of the lithium batts. Doing this w/ a linear regulator is much harder and less efficient.
The S7V8A switching step-up/step-down regulator efficiently produces an adjustable output between 2.5 V to 8 V from input voltages between 2.7 V and 11.8 V. Its ability to convert both higher and lower input voltages makes it useful for applications where the power supply voltage can vary...