Replace pin on aperture blade?

[Kino]

Just got an Aries IIIC from Japan that had "problems". I thought the aperture blades were just unseated, which is a pretty common problem with these cameras, but I find to my chagrin, one of the blades is missing the steel pin on one end of the blade.

This thing is TINY; I am a bit stumped as how to repair it. Guess I could try a tiny bit of epoxy on a bit of brass or aluminum...

Anyone have any tricks or tips to share?

 

[shutterfinger]

Do you have the pin? Use a caliper to measure an existing, form one from brass rod, clean the hole area to bare metal, tinn the hole area and pin end with solder, then solder in place with as thin a layer of solder as possible.

 

[Arvee]

I really can't relatively determie what the precise diameter of the hole is from the photo but I would estimate that it might be close to #14 or #16 solid copper house wire. If it is close, you could slice off a piece slightly longer than original pin and if it is close to the hole diameter, you could very carefully peen the pin and cause it to expand to hole diameter (perhaps while set in its receptacle so as to not expand larger than the receptacle) and finish the install with a wisp of epoxy around the top portion of the pin. That's my best idea since you can't scavenge a pin/blade from a donor aperture assy. Do you think that might do the trick? Good luck!

 

[Kino]

Thanks Shutterfinger! That makes perfect sense.

I don't have the pin, but the others measure 1.18mm in diameter.
I have some brass around here somewhere... Should have bought that mini lathe...

 

[Kino]

Arvee,

I'll try the soldiering first and if that doesn't work, I'm game for your suggestion!

Thanks!

 

[Arvee]

Arvee,

I'll try the soldiering first and if that doesn't work, I'm game for your suggestion!

Thanks!

Based on your measurement, #17 AWG wire is 1.15mm, pretty close to desired diameter. I would be super careful about soldering a solution as the aperture blade may warp with heat applied and become useless. Also, they are so thin that the metal may melt, opening the hole. If you solder, use a low wattage pencil iron designed for use with SMT (surface mount technology). Good luck!

Edit: I used to be a watchmaker years ago. The proper tool for doing the job is a watchmaker's staking set. If you can fab up a proper pin, find a watchmaker and have him stake it to the aperture blade.

 

[Kino]

Based on your measurement, #17 AWG wire is 1.15mm, pretty close to desired diameter. I would be super careful about soldering a solution as the aperture blade may warp with heat applied and become useless. Also, they are so thin that the metal may melt, opening the hole. If you solder, use a low wattage pencil iron designed for use with SMT (surface mount technology). Good luck!

Edit: I used to be a watchmaker years ago. The proper tool for doing the job is a watchmaker's staking set. If you can fab up a proper pin, find a watchmaker and have him stake it to the aperture blade.

That's interesting because I thought a staking kit might be the solution, but was unsure. There is a thrift store nearby that had a staking set for sale at a reasonable price and I almost bought it, but thought it would just lay around. Maybe it's still there. I'll go see tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

[shutterfinger]

Shutter and Aperture blades are .002 inch / .05mm thick blued steel. I soldered one once with a 25 watt iron. Extreme care has to be taken with staking or soldering.

 

[Donald Qualls]

You won't melt a steel blade with a soldering iron -- its own tip is steel, and it would melt first (not to mention glowing like a light bulb and starting to spit sparks before it gets there). Warping the blade is a bigger concern, not to mention whether those blades are actually steel. I've heard of shutter and aperture blades made of thin celluloid sheet and even paper -- and those look too black to have been blued and seen any wear at all. If I'm wrong, and they're blued, then carry on -- but do confirm (with a magnet?) that they're steel before you try soldering. The pins look like blued steel...

 

[BobD]

I have the same problem only it's multiple pins that have been sheared off. The lens is rare so I'm not likely to find another very easily (Ansco Xyton 50/1.4). I was wondering if CA adhesive might be strong enough.

 

[Dan Fromm]

Are you sure that lens is f/1.4? I ask because the Anscomark lenses booklet (at https://www.butkus.org/chinon/ansco/ansco_anscomark_m_lenses/ansco_anscomark_m_lenses.htm) mentions 50/2.8 and 50/1.9, no 50/1.4.

Not common cameras. At the moment there's a Ricoh 999 with 35/3.5, 50/1.9 and 100/4 on yahoo.jp. Not inexpensive. The seller is optimistic or they're collectors' items.

 

[BobD]

Yes, it's 1.9, not 1.4. Very hard to find.

I missed my chance on a 50/2.8 on eBay recently. I currently have the 100 and the 35mm lenses as well as the 50/1.9 but the latter has all the diaphragm blades sheared off. The camera body needs work too.