Repairing old camera case

[tonyowen]

I have a leather camera case [not an ever-ready case] for an eighty year old medium format camera.

However the case has come apart – as shown in images case01 and case02.

I’m puzzled as to how the case was assembled and thus how it can be repaired.

There is stitching on items/sections A, B, C and D – but items A and B appear to be butt attached to part C and possibly part D.

Other leather items I have (for instance image case03) have an external seam inside which the leather is folded at 90 degrees to form a ‘box’. Whereas this camera case shows no such seam and in spite of stitching holes I suspect that the parts are glued together to form the ‘box’ surrounding the camera body.

But I have no proof of residue glue!!

Any and all help/advise welcome.

Regards

Tony

 

[Pentode]

You are correct. They butt together. Parts A and C but against B and D and are stitched. This creates a partial box which covers the back, sides and bottom of the camera. The remaining two parts are flaps which snap together at the front of the camera.

If the leather isn't too dried out I expect any decent shoe repair shop could have that back together for you very easily.

 

[tonyowen]

If the leather isn't too dried out I expect any decent shoe repair shop could have that back together for you very easily.

Thank you, the problem is where to find such a shoe repair shop or cobbler in this day of mass produced non-resoleable footwear.
regards
Tony

 

[Dennis-B]

You might be able to find someone who's a leather worker, making belts, purses, etc. I belong to a shooting club, and we have several reenactors who work with leather. One of them repaired the case for my old Yashica Mat D, and it came out looking like new. As above mentioned, just take care that the leather hasn't become brittle, although it can be relubricated with mink oil, etc.

 

[R.Gould]

When I need leather camera cases stiched I go to a local saddle maker'/repairer, if you can find one within reach he should be able to stich the case within a few minutes without problems
Richard

 

[tonyowen]

I go to a local saddle maker'/repairer, Richard

Yes, I thought of saddle makers - there are a number around here - but I thought they worked on heavier items - but I'll check them out..
regards

Tony

 

[Sirius Glass]

You could also get a heavy thread, wax it, and use a curved needle to stitch it back together. Make sure the thread is pulled tight enough without any kinks or slack.

 

[DWThomas]

There is some possibly useful DIY info HERE

I saved the link, as I have an Argus C-3 (n)eveready case that is falling apart. Alas, can't cite any experience as so far I have not managed to wade into doing it.

 

[shutterfinger]

Use pure Neatsfoot oil to soften the leather, not the blended neatsfoot oil. Neatsfoot oil is a natural product. It should be available at leather shops in your area, Tandy Leather in the U.S..
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/tandy-pure-neatsfoot-oil

 

[neilt3]

Thank you, the problem is where to find such a shoe repair shop or cobbler in this day of mass produced non-resoleable footwear.
regards
Tony

For someone local to you that works with leather try here ;
Dead Link Removed

Horse saddles or shoes , same difference .
Other than that , is there not a cobbles still in Llangefni or Holyhead ?

 

[BAC1967]

There is some possibly useful DIY info HERE

I saved the link, as I have an Argus C-3 (n)eveready case that is falling apart. Alas, can't cite any experience as so far I have not managed to wade into doing it.

The DIY info you linked is good, the way I do it is a little different. Instead of using two needles and thread I make two passes. You can see in the photo below that I completed the first pass and now I'm coming back with the second pass. After the first pass it looks like you missed every other stitch. I've repaired a few cases this way. The second photo shows the finished work.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

The 80-year-old camera is a Rolleiflex, right? Do not take it to a shoe repair place. Do exactly what BAC1967 demonstrated in the answer above. Use a medium-size needle with any good quality polyester thread and carefully push the needle through the existing holes after having aligned the leather pieces. You can't do this with a machine. Pull the thread tight but not super tight - you want the pieces to be able to flex a bit. Also, if the leather is old, it may be a bit brittle and pulling tight will cut through the leather. I have heard, but cannot confirm, that 100% nylon thread becomes a cutting tool, while polyester or poly/cotton is gentler on the leather. Using neatsfoot oil on old dry leather is good advice.

 

[BAC1967]

The thread and needle I used I got at a Tandy Leather store in Seattle. The thread is waxed and is made for leather.

 

[DWThomas]

I'm thinking waxed linen thread would be a traditional one to use -- but I've no idea if it can be found these days. Almost anything would be better than no thread!

 

[BAC1967]

When I was a poor starving college student I would repair my hiking boots with dental floss. It's waxed and quite strong but your color choices are limited. On the plus side you can give your camera case I nice minty smell.

 

[Sirius Glass]

When I was a poor starving college student I would repair my hiking boots with dental floss. It's waxed and quite strong but your color choices are limited. On the plus side you can give your camera case I nice minty smell.

Or if hungry something to chew on.

 

[jvo]

i have an old leather sewing awl - it looks like a ice pick - bulbous handle sharp needle on one end. you load the handle with waxed thread and sew away. look up "speedy sticher".
When I bought it 30 years ago, it came with a big roll of strong, waxed thread. I used it on many, many different repair projects, camera bags, straps, canvas, belts, shoes, dog leash - numerous items. ALL never failed, many still in use. lotsa thread left!

If you find one, (along with the neatfoot oil), you'll be set. good luck

 

[shutterfinger]

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=sewing+awl
search term: sewing awl

 

[StanMac]

Here ya go .... https://www.thethreadexchange.com/

I bought some embalmers thread and a wax block for repairing an old Kodak folder case (which I’ve yet to start on) from this company. Reasonable cost and the thread looks to be quite durable.

Stan

 

[shutterfinger]

The OP is in the UK so the searches on this side of "the pond" may not be valid on that side of "the pond" and if they are then there is those nasty taxes.
Search terms should work well anywhere on the planet, not sure about the Moon or Mars.

 

[tonyowen]

The 80-year-old camera is a Rolleiflex, right? .

Wrong - its a Voigtlander 1936 Brillant and the case is not as rubust/strong/stiff as a Rollieflex
regards
Tony

 

[tonyowen]

The OP is in the UK so the searches on this side of "the pond" may not be valid on that side of "the pond" .

Thanks for the observation and concern - BUT the advantage of the global search/hints/ideas are better that parochial responses
regards
Tonyl

 

[tonyowen]

For someone local to you that works with leather try here ;
Dead Link Removed

Horse saddles or shoes , same difference .
Other than that , is there not a cobbles still in Llangefni or Holyhead ?

Thank you for the links and observations. Saddlery and similar works have a large minimum charge - more that the camera and case are worth. Unfortunately Anglesey is a dead area for local trades - apart from tourism and farming. So cobblers are extinct in the area, apart from charity organizations [for ex-prisoners] such as Timpsons which do limited shoe repair that excludes stitching.
regards
Tony

 

[shutterfinger]

Thanks for the observation and concern - BUT the advantage of the global search/hints/ideas are better that parochial responses
regards

If you were linked to a North America only company it will not open in your browser.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/awl?NCNI-5

 

[AgX]

The DIY info you linked is good, the way I do it is a little different. Instead of using two needles and thread I make two passes.

I am not experinced in leather repair, but using two passes should mean that even if one thread wears out and breaks the other thread still holds the seam. Whether this actually is the case or the interlocked system (similar to machine sewing) has its mewrits is for others to explain.