Repair notes for Praktica L-series cameras

[Sanug]

I would not decribe the M series viewfinder as dim. The later M models like MTL3 and MTL5 have bright viewfinders. Even at f4 the microprism is still usable. Better than the screen of the Asahi Pentax Spotmatic.

 

[kl122002]

Thanks so much for this wonderful resource! I have a VLC (first version) with the problem you describe here - listed as (D) - where the film advance lever is loose. I wonder if you have any suggestions for how I might fix this? Thanks in advance!

Sorry , I was too busy in fixing few lenses and forgot to check here.

Praktica L series (including) VLC is unlike ordinally Jp camera. It has the tensioning and stopping mech all installed on the Right Upper Part.

If you haven't attempted repairing on any cameras before , Servicing a Praktica VLC could be very challenging and any improper practice could case failure. **There is no shortcut **


You can check the gears like I here mention in #10.

But before that , you have to take off

• Upper Cover , with 5 screws: front x2, back x2, under the finder has 1 flat screw ,
• Metering switch (don't loose the ball and the spring), A locking ring is there to hold the unit
• Winder (use acetone / anhydrous alcohol to dissolve the glue and remove the cover by sharp knife / fine suction cup / strong tape)
• Speed selector unit
• Desolder or unscrew to disconnect the flash cord on under the meter switch .

then

• Remove the film counting gear ,
• Shutter speed gears (the brass unit, 3 screws + 1 long screw with a handle inside the speed selecting dial) ** remember the ISO and shutter speed setting before removal**

After that it will show you what exactly happening inside.

Checking:

• Put back the winder , without installing the speed gear
• Try to advance/tension
• Watch the gears
• Check the spring (SP1/2/3) if they are in position.

If the winder just swing freely ,
What I have seen most, isthe SP3 failed to hold the hook that is for driving the gears.

But,
Remember each problem and related solution are unique. You have to study it by yourself and trace the problem.

The worse case I have ever seen is the tensioning lever hook was broke and I have to take off the metering complex circuit and lift up the mirror box for the hook replacement.

Hope my text helps .

 

[kl122002]

I would not decribe the M series viewfinder as dim. The later M models like MTL3 and MTL5 have bright viewfinders. Even at f4 the microprism is still usable. Better than the screen of the Asahi Pentax Spotmatic.

Some websites suggest the later "L"-series model (e.g. MTL5, MTL 5B, MTL 50 ) 's focusing screens are following the design from the "B"-series cameras (such as B200, BC1) . But I have found some of them are still dim, more likely that the 2-way mirror on the prism has been oxidized, or the backing black clothing is missing/misplaced .

 

[imcanderson]

Sorry , I was too busy in fixing few lenses and forgot to check here.

Praktica L series (including) VLC is unlike ordinally Jp camera. It has the tensioning and stopping mech all installed on the Right Upper Part.

If you haven't attempted repairing on any cameras before , Servicing a Praktica VLC could be very challenging and any improper practice could case failure. **There is no shortcut **


You can check the gears like I here mention in #10.

But before that , you have to take off

• Upper Cover , with 5 screws: front x2, back x2, under the finder has 1 flat screw ,
• Metering switch (don't loose the ball and the spring), A locking ring is there to hold the unit
• Winder (use acetone / anhydrous alcohol to dissolve the glue and remove the cover by sharp knife / fine suction cup / strong tape)
• Speed selector unit
• Desolder or unscrew to disconnect the flash cord on under the meter switch .

then

• Remove the film counting gear ,
• Shutter speed gears (the brass unit, 3 screws + 1 long screw with a handle inside the speed selecting dial) ** remember the ISO and shutter speed setting before removal**

After that it will show you what exactly happening inside.

Checking:

• Put back the winder , without installing the speed gear
• Try to advance/tension
• Watch the gears
• Check the spring (SP1/2/3) if they are in position.

If the winder just swing freely ,
What I have seen most, isthe SP3 failed to hold the hook that is for driving the gears.

But,
Remember each problem and related solution are unique. You have to study it by yourself and trace the problem.

The worse case I have ever seen is the tensioning lever hook was broke and I have to take off the metering complex circuit and lift up the mirror box for the hook replacement.

Hope my text helps .

Thanks so much for this very detailed reply! I've been working to get the top plate off over the past couple of days. I've made some progress but think I need to get a spanner wrench to remove the advance lever and rewind lever. I agree that the most likely issue is just that one of the springs is out of position - hopefully it will just be a matter of getting this back into position. I'll let you know if I make any further progress on this and will share anything I find with this forum, in case it helps somebody else in the future.

 

[chuck3565]

To remove the advance lever, twist off the cap by heating it up and twist it off using a rubber sheet on the end of a dowel. There is a c clip underneath the cover that has to be removed. Repairing these cameras is very difficult. When I was younger I used to repair them but I wouldn't dare in my dotage.

 

[imcanderson]

To remove the advance lever, twist off the cap by heating it up and twist it off using a rubber sheet on the end of a dowel. There is a c clip underneath the cover that has to be removed. Repairing these cameras is very difficult. When I was younger I used to repair them but I wouldn't dare in my dotage.

Thanks Chuck, I've got as far as removing the c-clip and washer but there's an additional bit underneath which needs removing - I've ordered a spanner wrench for this purpose, so fingers crossed!

 

[kl122002]

Thanks Chuck, I've got as far as removing the c-clip and washer but there's an additional bit underneath which needs removing - I've ordered a spanner wrench for this purpose, so fingers crossed!

Don't forget the parts location and their install/dissembling sequence. It is very important. In some cases there is a thin spacer (the metal O ring) under the C-clip. Spacers are (those metal thin rings) are used for adjusting the parts height and connection. They can't loose.
Also in some cases that silver knob might have some glue in holding it . You might want anhydrous alcohol to dissolve and loose it first.


Spanner Wrench is an essential tool in camera and also lens repairing . I never go cheap in this tool , otherwise it would trip or skip the holes.
This model is one of the most I used :

Spanner Wrench

www.micro-tools.com

 

[kl122002]

This is the part (SP3) of that likely causing advance lever failed to advancing film & tensioning the shutter.
One the spring is off from the position, the driving clamp/hook behind would failed to keep in pressed position in order to draw the wheel below.

The true cause of loosing this spring is unknown. But for cases like this I often found it from:

• Old grease jamming
• Deformed gears ( previously forced advancing film)
• Dropped camera

(Picture from Exakta RTL1000, which has same design as Praktica L series cameras)

 

[imcanderson]

This is the part (SP3) of that likely causing advance lever failed to advancing film & tensioning the shutter.
One the spring is off from the position, the driving clamp/hook behind would failed to keep in pressed position in order to draw the wheel below.

The true cause of loosing this spring is unknown. But for cases like this I often found it from:

• Old grease jamming
• Deformed gears ( previously forced advancing film)
• Dropped camera

(Picture from Exakta RTL1000, which has same design as Praktica L series cameras)

View attachment 378965

Thank you, this is very helpful! Interestingly, this spring seems to be in place on my camera, and it turns when the advance lever is turned. However, the pieces below don't move at all. I'll keep testing and see if I can identify the problem.

My spanner wrench has arrived, so I've been able to get the top plate off - yours and Chuck's advice were very helpful here!

EDIT: Here's a link to a photo of my camera, in case that helps to diagnose the problem. (I've had to upload it separately as Photrio is throwing up an error when I try and add a photo - possibly because I'm too new.)

 

[kl122002]

Thank you, this is very helpful! Interestingly, this spring seems to be in place on my camera, and it turns when the advance lever is turned. However, the pieces below don't move at all. I'll keep testing and see if I can identify the problem.

My spanner wrench has arrived, so I've been able to get the top plate off - yours and Chuck's advice were very helpful here!

EDIT: Here's a link to a photo of my camera, in case that helps to diagnose the problem. (I've had to upload it separately as Photrio is throwing up an error when I try and add a photo - possibly because I'm too new.)

Thanks for the photo.

I can see it hasn't been bended , but it seems to me that the clamp is not pressing inwards? This clamp should be pressing inwards when driving the gear below, and it is only released when the lever returns.

Besides I have seen you have taken off the film counting disk?
When putting it back, wound 2-3 cycles. The "1" mark should be 3 clicks from it's resting position, and that is where the pointer disk should be pointed at.

 

[imcanderson]

Thanks for the photo.

I can see it hasn't been bended , but it seems to me that the clamp is not pressing inwards? This clamp should be pressing inwards when driving the gear below, and it is only released when the lever returns.

Besides I have seen you have taken off the film counting disk?
When putting it back, wound 2-3 cycles. The "1" mark should be 3 clicks from it's resting position, and that is where the pointer disk should be pointed at.

Thank you! Sorry, I'm not sure what piece you mean by "clamp"?

Noted re: film counting disk position!

 

[imcanderson]

Thank you! Sorry, I'm not sure what piece you mean by "clamp"?

Noted re: film counting disk position!

I've had a breakthrough, thanks to your comment about the clamp! You're exactly right: the clamp was on the wrong side of the spring. The spring seems to be slightly misshapen, but if I push the clamp in manually, I can get the camera to fire perfectly. Now I just need to figure out how to fix the spring itself, so that I don't have to push the clamp in every time. Thank you for all your help with this, really appreciate it!

 

[kl122002]

I've had a breakthrough, thanks to your comment about the clamp! You're exactly right: the clamp was on the wrong side of the spring. The spring seems to be slightly misshapen, but if I push the clamp in manually, I can get the camera to fire perfectly. Now I just need to figure out how to fix the spring itself, so that I don't have to push the clamp in every time. Thank you for all your help with this, really appreciate it!

I have found a normal parts of that winding/advancing gear. You can see the " clamp & spring " positioning from these photos.




Hope these photos can help you.

Form your photo in the last message, I think, is try to use a fine (yes, very fine, sharp and pointy tip) tweezer to pull out the straight end of that spring and make it docked & hold well . Then this spring with back with force and position --> pressing the clamp on the other side in order the drive wheel below. It should work?

 

[kl122002]

About Praktica 's front plate and mirror box (Not LLC/PLC/VLC)

**Make sure to set ISO =12, Shutter speed at Flash first **

To remove (after removing the top and bottom covers) :

1. Take off the self timer, Unscrew the ring around the released button.
2. Remove the surface leatherette with anhydrous alcohol
3. Remove the thin metal sheet (or cardboard paper in some cases)
4. 4 large slotted screws,
5. 2(or sometimes in 3) screws around the resistor disk from below picture, after removing the bottom cover.

Then you should be able to slowly lift up the front plate / mirror box and slide it out from the shutter speed controlling unit without flaws. This resistor disk would come off without desoldering as well (since it is connected to the metering circuit board on next to it).




Desoldering/ Soldering is not something I would suggest in Praktica L . The metals are old and the circuit board can not afford too much heat. Old wires are often found not holding the solder well .

As mention in the above the text, setting the set ISO =12 + Shutter speed at Flash would bring rotating selector of resistor disk to the photo's position . It should be a "7" like . In the future no matter you have to fix the speed selector gear above or replace this resistor disk, this "7" is the default location of "ISO=12, speed = flash" .


There are several variations in the circuit board as well . The above version is the very last and most common in late models .
While this one is sometimes can be seen in earlier version :



If you nee to remove this circuit board, unscrew the single brass screw .
Under it should have a black plastic support (not shown here) and the pushing rod .

The brown tape seen in the pictures is the insulation tape. It is too old and would fall off in most cases. Replace it with another insulation tape, electric wire tape , or simply a stationary tape would be fine. It helps to prevent short circuit from the electrics touching the metal compartment wall

 

[imcanderson]

I have found a normal parts of that winding/advancing gear. You can see the " clamp & spring " positioning from these photos.

View attachment 379160
View attachment 379159

Hope these photos can help you.

Form your photo in the last message, I think, is try to use a fine (yes, very fine, sharp and pointy tip) tweezer to pull out the straight end of that spring and make it docked & hold well . Then this spring with back with force and position --> pressing the clamp on the other side in order the drive wheel below. It should work?

Thanks so much! Unfortunately the spring broke (snapped) when I was trying to maneuvre it back into place. I'll have to make a new spring, so we'll see how that goes - these detailed photos will be really helpful! Thanks again for all your assistance with this, much appreciated.

 

[Natnater]

Made an account here just to say thank you @kl122002. Your post was extremely helpful. I have the same issue that @imcanderson had. I ended up figuring out the clamp, then re-reading your posts and realizing you had detailed everything already -- I just didn't have the context to understand it. I think I'll just need to use tweezers to tighten up the tension spring -- the hook is bent on mine. Seems to do OK now that I've set the clamp, but if I wiggle the film advance lever, it's enough to unseat the clamp again.
Thank you again

 

[avf13]

Hi folks, new to camera repair and trying to work out what is wrong with this MTL 3 (yes, I have seen OPs comment about these always having issues!). The winding lever operates ok and the shutter fires, but only at max speed, regardless of what the shutter speed is set to. Think this is because one of the shutter latches is not engaging when wound on (it does engage if I push the pin to the top of the slot though)- see pic.

 

[avf13]

Second (related?) issue is that the shutter timer is not working - I can manually hold the cog marks (pulling slightly to the right) and manually engage the second shutter latch, and get the shutter to open and close in a controlled way, but otherwise it just fires all in one. The cogs move slightly on winding, but it doesn't seem like enough to charge the mechanism/nothing happens in the clockwork when the shutter fires, even at slow speeds.

Amy pointers would be extremely welcome!

 

[Jobro]

Perhaps because of the L series has been sold underpriced. Most "jammed" art not actually jammed, but previously have been mishandled by the user, like drops or abuse . For 7/10 cameras I repaired are actually just need to open the top, use a small screw driver to kick the shutter release underneath the speed dial, let the shutter completes its run and then everything would be back to normal again .
The others, from today's pov, is mostly due to old dried oil and grease + mishandling (WD40 inside...) causing improper operation.

MTL3 is the only model I always find troubles inside, even it looks super new there. That is the only model I would avoid .

Older Prakticas , like IV , or before they changed their name, e.g. Contax S M42 SLR, Pentacon SLR , I won't say they are excellent camera , but just a camera that historically important .

I'm so grateful for this forum and made an account. Just to ask for help here. I came across a praktica LTL and I have no idea about its history. It was likely used in a high school photography class or donated to the school. But I can't get the shutter to fire or advance lever advance. I'm hoping you could help me identify the problem. Here is a video where I show the issue:

 

[koraks]

Welcome aboard @Jobro! I can't help you on the shutter/film advance issue, other than that I've had Mamiya cameras of a much more modern vintage lock up in a similar way. In my case, I would take off the bottom plate and would pry a little around advance mechanism, which would somehow make it unstuck again. Not exactly a scientific approach and I actually don't recommend going in there without knowing what you're doing.

The sluggish aperture on the lens is a common problem. It's usually caused by oil on the aperture blades, making them stick together. The oil is the more volatile compounds from the grease that is used to make the helicoid turn smoothly. Over time (esp. with the help of heat), some of the compounds from the grease find their way onto lens elements (making them hazy) and the aperture blades (making them stick together). This needs to be fixed, but fortunately, this is generally not particularly difficult to do if you're careful. Most people use something like lighter fluid to dab (carefully!!) onto the aperture blades while exercising the aperture. Repeat until the action is smooth again. It's usually not necessary to actually disassemble the aperture, which can often be quite challenging - especially getting it back together. While you're working on the aperture, you'll also have access to some of the lens surfaces that likely have some oil or haze on them, so you can clean those out, too.

I hope someone will come along with some suggestions on getting your LTL's advance mechanism unstuck again!

 

[chuck3565]

The jammed mechanism is under the top cover. Try tapping the bottom of the camera on a soft surface while trying to advance the lever. Try pulling down the shutter curtains with a finger nail. There is a lever on the film advance mechanism that can be accessed by removing the top cover. Pulling it back will allow the lever to be advanced but this is a major project.

 

[Sanug]

Removing the top cover of a Praktica is not easy because of the speed dial. Some parts of it are glued. Difficult to reassemble.

 

[Zorkiflex]

Common mechanical faults:

A.
- unresponsive shutter release
- Failed lever advance ( can't move)
- mirror stays up but shutter has no movement / after exposure

Most common reason :
The camera has been dropped. The shock accidentally released the tensioned hook (shutter or mirror box) and that area got released.

B.
- A loud "Bang" sound and then everything is dead

Reason:
The shutter blades can't hold its position at top, and so they dropped at the very end of film advancing action .
It has accidentally released the mirror box tension causing the loud "Bang"


C.
- shutter snapped after advancing

Reason:
The shutter does not reset well, either insufficient pulling distance or some of the levers are stuck/holding as it position because of old grease

D.
- Film Advancing lever swings freely without driving the film or tension the shutter

Reason:
Use has forced to advance the film/shutter after the above fault present.
The re-tension shutter process is paused at the mid-way and so the winding lock clamp failed to perform

E.
- film counter failed to move

Reason:
Camera dropped on gound, the dented metal compress on the Film Counter push clamps
The FC clamps are detached from driving the counting disk , or from bottom of the advance leveI

I have a praktica LLC and im kinda stumped on how to fix the shutter, it wouldn‘t cock it fully like what you said in (C), I’ ve tried cleaning the blades and all sorts of stuff. The lever would complete its cycle but the shutter would just drop down : ( Thanks in advance!

 

[chuck3565]

The shutter catches need to be cleaned and lubed with graphite or the shutter strap needs to be adjusted. If you don't want to open the camera, soak the shutter curtains on both side with naphtha. Fire the shutter repeatedly and let it set until the naphtha evaporates.