Removing AH layers after stand develop and fix

[Removed Account]

I've been taking a crack at stand development of 4x5 320TXP in my Patterson super system tank. My first attempt was uneven due to not using enough developer to fill the tank (measured with a reel in, doh!) but also had lightness in the top of the film, which I attributed to the film sliding in to the cone thing crevice. There was also what seemed to be a severe increase in base fog, judging from the rebate.

This time I used the rubber-band taco method in Rodinal 1:150, shake for the first 30 sec, 90 minutes total development. This time I included an unexposed sheet of film to see if I had light leaks in my holders. As with the first time, the developer was black when I poured it out, but this time only 2 corners of each sheet seem to be undeveloped, or clear, rather than a strip at the top. There is also an overall grey-cast to the film, which I thought was a severe base fog increase in the first test. As before this was not present in the corners.

I don't think I have light leaks anywhere, as I would think that a light leak would show up as uneven patches, rather an an overall darkening on the film. I'm thinking this is the antihalation layer that has not been completely removed.

I have two questions. The first is if it is possible to remove an AH layer after fixing, since the negatives are otherwise useless I'm leaving them to soak in a tray for a bit.

The second question is what could be causing only 2 corners of the film to appear lighter? I would have thought the AH layer would wash away somewhat uniformly, and doubt that the corners of all 3 film tacos worked their way in to a gap. It's certainly possible, since the cone on the tank goes a deep enough put a little pressure on the film, but it seems unlikely.

I'll post pics as soon as I can borrow a digicam.

Thanks for the help!

 

[PHOTOTONE]

the AH "layer" as you call it on films is a coating that is dissolved during the film processing. Any thing remaining on the film after proper fixing and washing is part of the developed image emulsion and cannot be removed. Perhaps you over-developed the film giving an overall density to the normally clear areas? You "could" use farmers reducer to remove some of the density, or you could in the future develop for a shorter length of time. All film, if left long enough in developer will start developing density in the unexposed areas. The effect varies with developer choice. TXP does have a gray tint to the clear areas of the film.

 

[Removed Account]

It's just occurred to me that if the corners of the film did actually get stuck in part of the tank and not develop, it might appear as though the base fog is higher than normal compared to the clear, undeveloped base. Would normal base fog appear noticeably darker than clear, undeveloped film base?