Reloading Film

[wackyvorlon]

I've new to reloading, does anyone have suggestions for securing the film to the spindle of the cartridge?

 

[josephaustin]

Masking tape, wrap around the spindle, apply about 1" to both sides of the film.

 

[Konical]

Good Evening, wackyvorlon,

I've used plastic tape, masking tape, and probably a few other kinds. I would not recommend duct tape or transparent tape, but just about any kind that won't easily tear or bleed adhesive should be OK.

Konical

 

[Dave Parker]

I just use a small piece of 3/8" masking tape, and roll away..

Dave

 

[eric]

transparent tape, but just about any kind that won't easily tear or bleed adhesive should be OK.

Konical

How come not transparent tape? I've been using transparent tape for ... long time. But I"m opened to suggestions and I'll try something new if there is a good reason.

Someone suggested, on another list, to use electrical tape. That person used electrical tape for decades. I'm going to have to try that too.

 

[joeyk49]

Masking tape. The blue painter's type. Sticks like crazy and peels right off to reuse the spindle.

I love bulk loading! I can now load casettes with what ever length I please; six, ten, twelve frames...much more versatile. When I want to switch films, I don't have to wait to finish off a roll of thirty six.

 

[titrisol]

I ran out of the "white" masking and started using the blue one a couple of weeks ago.
Very good stuff actually as Joey says.

One thing to consider is that you need to have enough tape to prevent the film from getting loose when you try winding that last frame, and you have to be careful doing it. In cameras with motor it would be worth a try sticking it to both sides.

Masking tape. The blue painter's type. Sticks like crazy and peels right off to reuse the spindle.

I love bulk loading! I can now load casettes with what ever length I please; six, ten, twelve frames...much more versatile. When I want to switch films, I don't have to wait to finish off a roll of thirty six.

Do you have a bulk loader??? Which kind?
I have a cheap Lloyd Bulk Loader that I have used for years and years and years.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've been using one inch wide, high quality auto paint grade masking tape (automotive paint stores carry it, including the larger NAPA outlets). The roll cost about eight bucks, but I figure it should last until around 2014 at the rate I use 35 mm film (maybe longer, as my consumption has been dropping with my trend toward larger negatives). The one inch size conveniently fits between the perfs on 35 mm film, and gives lots of contact area for a good grab. I wrap it around the spindle so it sticks to both sides of the film, and try to keep the contact short enough it doesn't pull out through the cassette velvet (though it doesn't seem to do any harm if it does).

One important thing to watch with bulk loaded film -- unless you load the film in total darkness, there's an exposed tail on each roll of 2-3 frames, which is long enough that if you routinely shoot until the film won't advance, your last 1-2 shots will be on the exposed tail. Also, you need to account for that tail and the leader exposed in loading when you determine how much film to load; I've found 43 clicks of the loader gives me a reliable 36 frames between the leader and exposed tail, and I still get 18 rolls of 36 and a short one (about 14 usable frames) from a one hundred foot bulk roll.

 

[bjorke]

3/4" scotch "Magic Transparent Tape" the pearly-looking stuff. Been using it for years and years.

 

[Daniel Lawton]

It may seem obvious but when you attach the film to the spool make sure it is straight and not canted one way or the other. If its a little off it will rub against one side of the spool creating friction as it feeds into the camera. Not a huge deal with manual wind cameras but with modern slrs that have auto rewind the friction could cause it to rewind midroll due to the sensor thinking the roll is finished. I found this out the hard way when I first started bulk loading and had this scenario happen a couple times in my Canon.

 

[chuck94022]

I use masking tape because it doesn't tear as unexpectedly as transparent tape. Once a tear starts with transparent tape, it quickly goes all the way through. Plus, transparent tape, for me anyway, is harder to completely remove from the spool and film than masking tape.

That said, and while it may not be a big issue for this use, masking tape definitely deteriorates with age. I learned this from using it for its primary function, masking. Old masking tape starts to curl at the edges and loses its stickiness. Sometimes stores keep their masking tape for a very long time, so make sure you are buying fresh tape. (Especially if you'll also be using it for painting your car or house! )

While I'd use Duct Tape for just about everything else, I'd never use it for taping film to spools!

-chuck

 

[Tach]

I ask for used cassetes at photo labs; they usually come with a short leader (3-5mm) of film sticking out of the velvet.

Instead of attaching the bulk film to the spindle, I just tape (with regular transparent tape) it to the leader sticking out. No need to dissassemble the cassette and/or buy reloadable cassetes.

The photolabs usually give me a bag of 30-50 cassetes every time I ask them. Looking at the brand/type distribution, 99% of the films processed here are kodak consumer, with one or two Superias thrown in. Never found a slide film cassette.

 

[eric]

I ask for used cassetes at photo labs; they usually come with a short leader (3-5mm) of film sticking out of the velvet.

Instead of attaching the bulk film to the spindle, I just tape (with regular transparent tape) it to the leader sticking out. No need to dissassemble the cassette and/or buy reloadable cassetes.

This is brilliant! I'll have to ask for some the next time I'm at my lab!