Refixing in different fixer?

[bvy]

Any issues refixing negatives in a Rapid Fixer when they were originally fixed using a hardening fixer (liquid Kodafix)? Thanks.

 

[Ian Grant]

No, just don't over fix. by that I mean way longer than the recommended time with fresh fixer.

Ian

 

[bvy]

Thanks, Ian. Seems my Kodafix died suddenly -- yellow fogging that wouldn't clear when refixing (in Kodafix). The Ilford Rapid Fixer I had on hand took it right out.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Thanks, Ian. Seems my Kodafix died suddenly -- yellow fogging that wouldn't clear when refixing (in Kodafix). The Ilford Rapid Fixer I had on hand took it right out.

Seems like you're overusing your fixer! Do take a look at the manufacturer's capacity and shelf-life recommendations. By the time fixer is leaving opaque unfixed areas, it has been exhausted for quite a while...

Doremus

 

[bvy]

Seems like you're overusing your fixer! Do take a look at the manufacturer's capacity and shelf-life recommendations. By the time fixer is leaving opaque unfixed areas, it has been exhausted for quite a while...

Kodak documentation says I should get ~20 rolls of film from my 600ml of working solution (specifically 32 per liter). This came after about 16 rolls. Working solution was prepared in May, but I've used other fixers this long or longer. Still, I should have been paying closer attention.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Kodak documentation says I should get ~20 rolls of film from my 600ml of working solution (specifically 32 per liter). This came after about 16 rolls. Working solution was prepared in May, but I've used other fixers this long or longer. Still, I should have been paying closer attention.

It seems you are within the throughput limits, but possibly the fixer was past its shelf life. Depending on storage conditions, working-strength fixer will go bad in anywhere from a week to six months. Usually there is some precipitate and/or a sulfur smell (sulfuring out is the culprit with age). At any rate, a refix should fix the problem

Best,

Doremus

 

[bvy]

It seems you are within the throughput limits, but possibly the fixer was past its shelf life. Depending on storage conditions, working-strength fixer will go bad in anywhere from a week to six months. Usually there is some precipitate and/or a sulfur smell (sulfuring out is the culprit with age). At any rate, a refix should fix the problem

It must have been shelf life, as I fixed about a dozen rolls, let it sit for a few months, and then came back for more. It was stored in a full container at room temperature but still failed. Refixing is complete, and the old fixer has been relegated to the big container labeled "SPENT".

 

[HiHoSilver]

Ian & Doremus - Bravo for great help.

 

[M Carter]

Just test your fix before you start printing. Under safe lights, cut a strip of the paper you'll be using, and mark it with a pencil - several lines across the strip, so you have 4 lines and 5 divisions. Rinse the paper, and then set a timer and dip it in the fix. Try, say, 20 seconds to the first line, then 20 to the second - leave the last section for your tongs or fingers. So you'll have a strip that's been fixed for 80 secs, 60, 40 and 20, divided by lines. Rinse and turn the room lights on, make sure the strip gets exposed to the light.

Drop it in the developer. The first section to go pure white is your minimum fixing time. You should see the strip go from white to vaguely yellow to full black. (This also tests your developer - the unfixed sections should be deep black).

I tend to increase the minimum time by 50-100%, though for lith printing I dilute my fixer and stay close to the minimum time for the dilute fix (seems to hold more color).

If you're doing a lot of prints or doing big ones, do this every 5-10 prints or so - just takes a minute and no guessing, no test kits, etc.

 

[Ian Grant]

The question was about fixing films.

Don't use fixer used for films with paper because the iodide from the films makes washing the intermediary by products - silver-thiosulphate complexes - formed during fixing difficult to wash out of fibre based papers as they form weak bonds with the cellulose in the paper..

Ian