Recommended Paper for Carbon printing

[Bruce]

All

What paper do you recommended for the final support for Carbon printing?

Also, do you like a Glossy or Matte surface?

Thanks!!

 

[Rick A]

Most I know use fixed out (outdated) fiber base paper. Nearly any brand should work.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Hi Bruce,

I prefer the matte look... but sometimes glossy looks better. Depends on the image.
I use acrylic mediums. Quick, easy, no fuss, no muss.
For papers, I use Stonehenge. For the past few months I've been using Arches Platine, only because I got a pack of that bad batch. No good for kallitypes but working very well for carbon. Better than Stonehenge, actually, due to it being a much heavier paper. I've got some "good" Arches Platine, that I've been using for carbon over kallitype. Very happy with the results.

Sometimes I print on Ilford Matte Fibre. Beautiful paper which shows off the relief... slightly more than matte acrylic sized papers. I just have issues with wasting all that silver, though...

 

[TheToadMen]

Mostly matte old fiber paper (not warmtone), but also Fabiano Artistico Extra White aquarel paper (hand seized with gelatine).

 

[Bruce]

All

Thanks for the paper ideas. Since I am just learning this process, I will try the Ilford Matte paper

 

[domaz]

I find RC paper a lot easier to transfer to then fibre based paper. For some reason my Fibre based paper transfers don't seem to work as consistently well as RC. The moral of the story is it's probably best to start with fixed out RC paper. The added benefit of RC paper is you can transfer to either side (glossy or non-glossy).

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've got boxes of expired RC paper. Time to use it.

 

[Bruce]

Well I tried some fixed out Ilford matte photo paper as my final support over the weekend. At least I tried to do it.

I have sever frilling. Over 1/2 of the image shot off the paper. Disaster!!

I could not get the pigment off the remaining portion of the image. More disaster!!

Not sure what happened. I soaked the Yupo tissue for 2 minutes and the matte paper support for 2 minutes each followed by my normal mating steps.

I will have to read more about the problems with this process to see what I need to do to correct the problem.

 

[Vaughn]

Bummer! Nothing jumps out and warns me about anything in your process. I use a non-hardening fix (Kodak Rapid Fix, part A only, or Ilford's). I try not to touch the paper surface (oil on the fingers might hamper good adhesion). Increase the safe edge if you are using one at miminal width. Fiber paper may need more force to squeeze out the water after the mating bath (just guessing on this). Good luck!

I use glossly fiber paper. My pigment (lampblack WC in tubes) yields a low gloss print surface that works well with a glossy FB surface for my images. The high gloss given by Black Cat ink might work better on a matte paper. I have used Black Cat ink on glossy fiber paper and I do not appreciate the look at all for my landscape images -- tho I might like it for other image types I have. Paper surface and print surface gloss determine the final look and so far, transfers I have done on RC or other non-paper surface (Yupo, Kwik Print paper) have been unappetizing.

I would characterize my developing of the print to be quite vigorous -- with rare frilling problems...usually a corner lifting slightly. At which time I go mellow on the developing and make sure that corner does not enlarge or stretch...usually the corner will lay down nicely when the print is finally removed from the developing bath and hung to dry.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I don't soak matte fibre before mating. Tissue goes in for required time, then 15 sec. before time is up I stick the paper in and mate. Perfect transfer every time.

 

[TheToadMen]

Not sure what happened. I soaked the Yupo tissue for 2 minutes and the matte paper support for 2 minutes each followed by my normal mating steps.

I soak the Yupo paper for no more then one minute in cold water just before I make the sandwich in the water. Then I put the sandwich sandwich on a flat glass plate and squeeze off the water (gently). Let it lay for 15 minutes and then put it in warm water. After 3 minutes or so I start pulling gently at the corners to separate the Yupo and then wash very carefully.

Thrilling might also happen when there is a very large contrast at the borders (white versus black parts) for harsh black lines might frill or peel off.

 

[Bruce]

Guys

Thanks for the recommendations. I will try them and post my results.