Most people find that the T-Max and the similar Delta films are very sensitive to changes in the development technique compared to films like Tri-X or FP4 and HP5. Look at some of Thomas Bertilsson's posts in particular on that subject.
Also, keep in mind that the manufacturer's recommendations for development are only meant to be starting points for your own testing. For example, with the Sprint developer, you probably need to extend the developing time slightly to get to the same contrast you see with T-Max developer. Another way to increase contrast is to agitate a little more. That may mean 12 seconds per minute rather than 10, for example.
On the other hand, highlights that are too dense mean either that the overall development time may be too long, or there was too much exposure. Since you can't extend the development for more contrast and reduce it for less highlight density, the only thing you can change there is the exposure, or switch to a different developer.
The holy grail is a developer and technique that gives the desired contrast without blocking up the highlights and that combination is probably the biggest motivator for the "magic bullet" search that there is.
It sounds like you are on pretty good ground for looking at alternatives, you have a few specific characteristics you'd like to change. But it would be good at this point to go through the process of finding your "personal" ISO for some of the films you work with the most, and your personal development time. The links in Paul_c5x4's post are one source. I'd also recommend reading Fred Picker's
Zone VI Workshop.
Doing the testing may sound cumbersome or like a waste of time, but taking a systematic approach to figuring out all the variables will save you time and effort in the long run. Most of the things that affect your results have nothing to do with the specific developer you're using. The ISO printed on the box is determined by a very specific set of criteria in a lab. Testing allows you to determine what that number should be for your camera, your shutter, and your particular development technique.
I'm not trying to defend T-Max or Sprint developers here, I don't use either one. Everyone here has a favorite though, so it's an easy road to get lost on when you ask the question "what developer should I use". The choice becomes a very personal one when it's combined with all the other things.
For every terrible, bad-contrast, blocked up print you see that came from a negative developed in X, you'll find another using the same film developed in X that's incredible to look at. If it's combination you've rejected, you will find yourself asking "How the heck did they do that?"
My suggestion would be that if you really want to start this journey (it's fun, really!), try D-76 or ID-11. Learn what happens if you extend or cut the development time by say, 30 seconds. Learn what happens if you add or subtract some agitation. learn what a half-stop less or more exposure does.
Know that for scanning you may want negatives that are a little thinner and with less contrast than you would want for optical printing.
(Oh boy!, yet more variables!)
