Recommendations for getting into medium format?

[Alan Gales]

My RZ was close to mint but it was the original RZ. The Pro II's sold for quite a bit more. Like Polyglot says, they are professional cameras made for shooting day after day.

I understand where Polyglot comes from about avoiding up-nostril shots but I can hold an RZ just below my face with a waist level finder. If I wanted to do a head shot I'd have the person seated. I almost always shot my subjects with my RZ on a tripod with studio strobes but of course you need to decide what works best for you.

 

[James-EG]

Thanks for the replies, thanks for those item numbers too, I'll have a look My one problem about ordering from abroad is that there's an import tax which can be quite high, by the time I've paid that along with the cost of the camera and postage I still might be paying over £400. I would like to get one in nice condition but it isn't really that important, the one I was looking at just happened to be in mint condition.

Regarding the prism if it only really useful for shooting portraits to prevent looking up at the subject I don't think I'll really need it, I'm almost 6'4" and often find that I'm looking down at people a little on 35mm when shooting portraits! A tripod's no problem either, I have a nice Carbon fibre Manfrotto which isn't too much of an issue to carry around

 

[analoguey]

If you're going to sell within the year - and unless you need a mfdb or use with one, why not just the mamiya RB? No batteries, fully manual. And KL lenses are really good!

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[James-EG]

I'm quite sure that I wouldn't sell it again within the year, it would only be if I need to get some money back or if I end up not using the camera, which is very doubtful! I have thought about the RB but I would prefer to get one of the newer cameras I'm sure they're not a problem but I feel like getting a newer one would be more reliable, and I don't mind using a battery in the camera.

Also does anyone have any experience with the Bronica GS-1? The Mamiya RZ67 seems to be quite difficult to get hold of for a good price in the UK at the moment, so should I need to go down the Bronica route I would like to hear what you think about the system as I think I'd definitely want a 6x7 camera. I've found a body for £140, film back for £50 and then a 50mm lens for £140, would you say these are fair prices? The only issue is the lack of any finder

 

[analoguey]

The RB pro-SD was sold alongside the RZ and probably RZ1 from what I have read. So not necessarily older in age.
My RB looked practically new when I got it couple of years back!
I thought there was a Bronica kit for sale recently, here?

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[James-EG]

Oh okay, I wasn't aware of that, I did have a look the the RB67 systems but most of the ones on eBay are only a little bit lower in price than the RZ67 cameras, and any that seemed good prices didn't look great. Okay thanks I'll have a look

 

[analoguey]

Take a look at sellers from Japan - usually goods sold are in good condition! Or you could try ebay Germany too, more expensive though, I think.
There's also some available on this forum too, I think?(or was, last I checked)

Pro-SD is more angular than pro or pro-s. And afaik, doesnt have light seals so you dont need to bother about them too.(In my experience, the back doesnt, havent used the full camera)

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[James-EG]

Unfortunately ordering from Japan in the UK means that I would have to pay 20% import duties of the total price, so by the time I've got what I ordered it's no longer a good deal! What kind of prices would you expect a Bronica GS-1 to be? I have a chance to get a body, 120 back, 50mm f/4.5 PG lens and prism finder for £389, for the waist level finder instead for £429

 

[Regular Rod]

Meanwhile...

Unfortunately ordering from Japan in the UK means that I would have to pay 20% import duties of the total price, so by the time I've got what I ordered it's no longer a good deal! What kind of prices would you expect a Bronica GS-1 to be? I have a chance to get a body, 120 back, 50mm f/4.5 PG lens and prism finder for £389, for the waist level finder instead for £429

You know James in the time this thread has taken, for a fraction of these sums, you could have bought a nice traditional 6x9 Folder with RF, some film, put an exposure meter App on your smart 'phone and by now you would have already finished "getting into medium format" and instead be well on your way to changing to medium format as your default approach for making photographs...

RR

 

[James-EG]

You know James in the time this thread has taken, for a fraction of these sums, you could have bought a nice traditional 6x9 Folder with RF, some film, put an exposure meter App on your smart 'phone and by now you would have already finished "getting into medium format" and instead be well on your way to changing to medium format as your default approach for making photographs...

RR

That is probably true, although I have no idea where to start with folding cameras, and for creating images which I will probable bye using for my A level exams, will a folder produce high enough quality images? When I look at images taken with them I feel like a 6x7 system camera like the Mamiya have more to offer

 

[Regular Rod]

That is probably true, although I have no idea where to start with folding cameras, and for creating images which I will probable bye using for my A level exams, will a folder produce high enough quality images? When I look at images taken with them I feel like a 6x7 system camera like the Mamiya have more to offer

Okay. Some good quality 6x9 folding cameras that are available for £200 or less:

Mockbar - 5

Zeiss Ikon Ikonta

AGFA Record III with Solinar Lens

AGFA Record III with cheaper Apotar lens

Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar lens

Any of these would get you into medium format, give you bigger negatives than the modern cameras you have been considering, fit in a jacket pocket and are capable of delivering results that, with the naked eye, match anything from the modern cameras.

Oh and they don't depreciate in value anymore. In fact they are now increasing in value. So if you change your mind, you can get your money back, maybe even gain a small profit...

RR

 

[analoguey]

They folders have gone up in a very short time! Even moskvas going 150-200 USD on the bay!

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[James-EG]

Wow I'm surprised at the quality of those images, they also very good so credit to you too Maybe I'll have to look in to a folding camera then. I have yet another question, I'm assuming the Mamiya Pro II lenses like the 90mm 3.5 backwards compatible with the pro I, is that right? I have found a Pro I body, a film back and the 90mm lens from 3 different people for a total of £315, much better price than over £400!

 

[markbarendt]

Folders can produce exceptional images. (As can old Brownies, Holgas, Dianas, ...)

With any camera it simply needs to be light tight and the focus, shutter, aperture, and winding mechanisms need to work decently. Nice clean glass and internals generally help too.

Surely the RZ or RB provide you more choices/options but so what? The ability to make a good photo is all about you, not the camera.

In order for camera choices away from a "normal lens setup" like you will find on most folders to be meaningful, you actually need to have defined a specific input and or output requirement. So if your professor has provided you a specific requirement that's one thing, but you haven't mentioned any. Or if you have a well defined specific look you want to get then the choice of camera/lens/film needs to fit that requirement.

What I'm getting at here is that regardless of what camera you pick, you will adapt.

 

[Regular Rod]

Folders can produce exceptional images. (As can old Brownies, Holgas, Dianas, ...)

With any camera it simply needs to be light tight and the focus, shutter, aperture, and winding mechanisms need to work decently. Nice clean glass and internals generally help too.

Surely the RZ or RB provide you more choices/options but so what? The ability to make a good photo is all about you, not the camera.

In order for camera choices away from a "normal lens setup" like you will find on most folders to be meaningful, you actually need to have defined a specific input and or output requirement. So if your professor has provided you a specific requirement that's one thing, but you haven't mentioned any. Or if you have a well defined specific look you want to get then the choice of camera/lens/film needs to fit that requirement.

What I'm getting at here is that regardless of what camera you pick, you will adapt.

I couldn't agree more!

RR

 

[James-EG]

Thanks for the help, I'll be having a look at some folders as it might be much more worthwhile getting something that is cheaper and still produces those kind of images. I can then get more film or a new lens for my Nikon FM2n. For my photography course we have the choice to do what we want, we think of an idea or a concept and follow it up, all I know at the moment is that I want to use film (medium format) and probably do landscapes, perhaps 6x9 would be more useful in that aspect.

 

[Regular Rod]

6x12 ???

Thanks for the help, I'll be having a look at some folders as it might be much more worthwhile getting something that is cheaper and still produces those kind of images. I can then get more film or a new lens for my Nikon FM2n. For my photography course we have the choice to do what we want, we think of an idea or a concept and follow it up, all I know at the moment is that I want to use film (medium format) and probably do landscapes, perhaps 6x9 would be more useful in that aspect.

Landscapes? How about a nominal 6x12?

How are you with hand tools? Build yourself a HolgAgon? http://freepdfhosting.com/b316cbe2ff.pdf

£167 including buying the Angulon 90mm lens but they are going up all the time now.


RR

 

[markbarendt]

Landscapes? How about a nominal 6x12?

How are you with hand tools? Build yourself a HolgAgon? http://freepdfhosting.com/b316cbe2ff.pdf

£167 including buying the Angulon 90mm lens but they are going up all the time now.


RR

Too much fun!

 

[James-EG]

Those are some great images! Although I'm not sure I'd trust myself modifying a camera like that!

 

[John Koehrer]

Folders are light and compact but range finder/viewfinder will be small and unless it's got a mirrored viewfinder, you're going to be shooting down on your subject just like the 35mm. That sort of bypasses one of your desires.
You also lose the large focusing screen, close focusing and more accurate framing the RB/RZ offer.

Decisions, decisions.

 

[Alan Gales]

I have yet another question, I'm assuming the Mamiya Pro II lenses like the 90mm 3.5 backwards compatible with the pro I, is that right? I have found a Pro I body, a film back and the 90mm lens from 3 different people for a total of £315, much better price than over £400!

You are correct.

All the RB cameras are compatible with all the RB lenses.

All the RZ cameras are compatible with all the RZ lenses plus all the RB lenses. You do still have to cock the shutters on the RB lenses when used on an RZ.

 

[James-EG]

I'd still like to get the Mamiya, the issue is finding one for a good price. Although I think I've managed it with the equipment I found mentioned on the previous page. I also feel like I'd need a wide angle lens and seeing as I'm on a bit of a budget I probably won't be able to get the 50mm ULD lens, would the 50mm f/4.5 W lens still produce nice images?

You are correct.

All the RB cameras are compatible with all the RB lenses.

All the RZ cameras are compatible with all the RZ lenses plus all the RB lenses. You do still have to cock the shutters on the RB lenses when used on an RZ.

Thanks for your help, much appreciated!

 

[Alan Gales]

I'd still like to get the Mamiya, the issue is finding one for a good price. Although I think I've managed it with the equipment I found mentioned on the previous page. I also feel like I'd need a wide angle lens and seeing as I'm on a bit of a budget I probably won't be able to get the 50mm ULD lens, would the 50mm f/4.5 W lens still nice images?



Thanks for your help, much appreciated!

You are welcome.

I owned the ULD version and have never shot the regular version. Re-read post #62 for Polyglot's opinion. He knows his stuff.

 

[Regular Rod]

...I'm not sure I'd trust myself modifying a camera like that!

Honestly it is not hard if you can use a file, a drill, sandpaper, screwdriver, epoxy adhesive, tape and paint. Even setting up the focus is not hard if you use Google Earth to give you the distance of far objects.

RR

 

[James-EG]

For me I think the W version would be fine, especially shooting landscapes at smaller apertures. Thanks for the help again, this thread is getting pretty long and I forget what I've already asked! Regular Rod, I'm afraid it would probably still be a bit of an issue for me!