Recommendations for cheap SLR + 35mm lens

[mwdake]

How about the Canon A series such as A1 or AE1 etc.
I think the FD lenses will not work on the new digital stuff so the lenses are very inexpensive.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I'm looking for a cheap small manual focus SLR

For drop-dead cheap you may want to look at Ricoh. I am not a Ricoh user, my only knowledge is noticing the prices on ebay are in the $5 to $30 range.The new ones are K-mount. The old SM models are probably best avoided.

There are web sites and APUG members who can help with the ins and outs of the various models. Threads on Ricoh cameras are just about always favorable.

 

[keithwms]

SLR schmessLR :rolleyes: Get an original olympus XA. There are a number of other manual rangefinders that would make you very happy at ~35mm.

Really, there are many very affordable and excellent little fixed lens cameras. SLRs too.

 

[rwyoung]

Somebody mentioned that the Pentax ME and ME Super had electronic shutters. That is true BUT they will still fire at the flash sync speed (1/60 or 1/125 vicinity) if the battery is dead. Been a while since I looked at my old ME but I think you also have to switch the mode to manual or some such. Bought it on a lark for about $30. Turns out it was retired out of a high school yearbook group or some such thing. Pretty beat up and a healthy dent on top that screwed up the exposure counter.

And I went to check on the model number of the Ricoh I keep as a backup (bangaround) body for my Pentax lenses. It is the KR-5 Super. Mechanical shutter 1/1000 down to 1/8 and then B (sometimes a problem that the greater than 1/8 speeds aren't present) and match needle metering like the K-1000. No DOF preview but does have self timer. Hotshoe flash but no PC terminal. Somewhere I have the little widget that you can slip into the hotshoe to get a PC terminal for off camera flash. I think I paid about $20 for this camera and it was in near new condition when I got it. I've since beat it up pretty bad hiking (banging it on stuff) along with a spare f2 50mm lens and and #8 filter. The f2 50mm is less expensive of the Pentax 50mm lenses and other than being a bit slow is a fine lens.

So there you go, get yourself a used Ricoh or even a new one (or Chinon, or whatever the heck the name they put on them now). Used Ricoh KR5 or KR10 should run you less than $50. Spend the rest on the f1.4 50mm lens or maybe a nice Vivitar Series 1 35-80 zoom and a brick of Tri-X or HP5+

 

[Jedidiah Smith]

For light, cheap and compact, don't throw out the Minolta X-700 or X-570(X-500 in some markets).
For possible the best feeling manual focus camera, consider a Minolta XD-11(XD or XD-7 in some markets). It's older and heavier, but what a lovely shutter and feel to the body. The MD lenses are wonderful and CHEAP these days!
The only reason I don't use a pair of XD-11 cameras any more is because I use the Minolta Maxxum 9...and well, it's a Maxxum 9. Hard to beat.

Jed

 

[phenix]

The pro bodies: Ricoh XR-1(s), XR-2(s), XR-7, or the simpler but lasting KR5-Super or A50-Super (not KR-5). There are also some very useful intermediate models, like the KR-10, XR-10, or XR-M.
To save more, go for their equivalents rebadged Sears - see Butkus site for equivalents and free pdf user manuals:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html
K-mount will last forever.

 

[briandaly]

Thanks for all the replies.
A little more background - having used various DSLRs along with some nice glass over the last few years, I've recently acquired an old Leica M2 with a 50mm f2.8 Elmar and started shooting film for the first time. I'm really enjoying the whole process (fully manual shooting, developing film, trying various films/developers etc.) and like the results I get with film. While my digital images are clean and noise-free, the results with ISO400 film in 35mm format generally have a slightly grainy, gritty feel and for me, evoke a sense of nostalgia that I don't get with digital.
Now that I've been bitten by the film bug, I would like a second inexpensive body that I can take places where I would worry about my M2 (out in the rain, on the beach, on small boats etc.).
Also, I would like to get 35mm lens for my M2, but with M-mount lenses costing so much, I figured I could get a 35 and maybe a 90 for relatively little cost in MD/K/M42/FD etc. mount.
Currently have my eye on an X-700 (for its small size and small price), but if it goes too high, I'll be starting from scratch again.

 

[Vonder]

Can't go wrong with an X-700 *but*

Currently have my eye on an X-700 (for its small size and small price), but if it goes too high, I'll be starting from scratch again.

I have two X-700s and they are superb. They are known to have a fault though, in that a certain electronic part caled a capacitor tends to go bad over time, and these cameras may be quite old. I was fortunate that the X-700 was still in production in 2000 when I bought one of mine. The capacitor repair isn't expensive, but keep it in mind if the camera starts acting weird. Do a google search and you'll see.

 

[briandaly]

I have two X-700s and they are superb. They are known to have a fault though, in that a certain electronic part caled a capacitor tends to go bad over time, and these cameras may be quite old. I was fortunate that the X-700 was still in production in 2000 when I bought one of mine. The capacitor repair isn't expensive, but keep it in mind if the camera starts acting weird. Do a google search and you'll see.

Yep. An X-700 was my first and only film SLR camera, bought new in California in 1990 when I was on summer holidays from college. I was too cheap to buy much film for it though and probably shot less than 20 rolls of film by the time the capacitor died somewhere between 2004/2005 - all on P mode. By then, digital SLRs were becoming affordable and I switched to a Minolta 5D. The body was worthless with the broken capacitor, so I dumped it thinking I'd never look back - what a mistake!

 

[Jeffrey S. Winn]

Brian,

I'll suggest the Canon FD system. You have a large choice of bodies, with a full selection of quality lenses and accessories. Everything from flashes, to macro gear, to super telephoto lenses are available. The prices are pretty good as well when you look at the quality of the gear.

For example, you could get camera like my T-70 with a 50mm 1.8 lens from KEH for about $80.00 to start. There are many good lenses for under $50.00, and many such as the 28mm 2.8 can be found for under $30.00. A 35mm 2.8 will cost about $35. A very good lens is the 100mm 2.8, and it can be found for around $50.00. Later if you want to try some great glass, you can step up to the 85mm 1.2, the 50mm 1.2, 100mm 2.0, 35mm 2.0, or the 135mm 2.0.

The T-70 takes AA batteries, has center weight metering, and a partial 12% spot area metering. Additionally it has three different program modes, shutter priority and full maunal mode. It is a pretty small package, and weighs 530 grams, or 18 11/16 oz. for the body only. Overall, this is a good camera with a good accurate meter, and it is easy to produce good results.

Jeff

 

[Robint]

I would suggest an Olympus OM 1n, the same size as the Leica and almost as quiet. Can use 1.4v zinc oxide hearing aid batteries or a hand held meter. Battery only operates meter. The Oly's have a large viewfinder showing 97% of the frame and the apparent viewing distance is 6 feet. I need reading glasses to set film speed but not for shooting. Zuiko lenses are small and light and like Leica have the aperture ring at the lens end.

 

[Chazzy]

I have two X-700s and they are superb. They are known to have a fault though, in that a certain electronic part caled a capacitor tends to go bad over time, and these cameras may be quite old. I was fortunate that the X-700 was still in production in 2000 when I bought one of mine. The capacitor repair isn't expensive, but keep it in mind if the camera starts acting weird. Do a google search and you'll see.

Could you say a little more about the symptoms of the capacitor problem? Did the capacitor affect the meter, or some other part of the camera? I have an X-700, so I'd like to know what to be watching for.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Also, I would like to get 35mm lens for my M2, but with M-mount lenses costing so much

The prices for Leica wide angle lenses are insane.

Look at the Voigtlander lenses. You will always take better pictures with the lens you have and can afford than the lens you don't have and can't afford. Then there is Russian glass with an SM to M adapter.

If water damage is a concern you may want to look at a Nikonos.

I like taking pictures with a beater camera, I feel I have more freedom - the camera doesn't cause any worry. If I feel I will get a better picture propping the camera in a mud puddle - then I prop the camera in a mud puddle.

 

[briandaly]

Could you say a little more about the symptoms of the capacitor problem? Did the capacitor affect the meter, or some other part of the camera? I have an X-700, so I'd like to know what to be watching for.

Symptom - shutter will not release. Camera powers on and meter LEDs function OK - just that shutter will fail to release.

 

[Simon E]

I'm with Brian Barber (aka nsurit).

Any OM-1n (or any older model) is likely to require a service/CLA anyway. If you send it to an authorised Olympus service centre they will fit the MR-9 adapter so you can use the common SR44 silver oxide cells and get perfect metering every time. The single digit OMs are lovely cameras to use - with no caveats.

The OM 35mm f2.8 is an overlooked lens and tiny. The older single coated version has given me many of my favourite photos and the results are sharp enough to my eyes.

 

[jime11]

The shutter capacitor in the Minolta X700 fails from not being used. You need to fire the shutter every few months to keep it happy. I had one repaired & that's what the repairman told me. I guess it's like on a leaf shutter - you have to exercise it.

 

[Davesw]

You are in a great place : 1)you want to buy a 35MM SLR and it is a buyers market even for the high end lightly used stuff.
2) There are more good options than there are bad ones, so it is a mater of personal choice.
I nominate the Nikon FM or FM2 for the following reasons :
1) great glass and a wide selection.
2) reasonably compact and in spite of a traditinal,non "ergonomic" design it feels very nice when you hold it.
3) Mechanical operation: if you end up with dead batteries all you lose is built in meter. you still have flash sync at 250th /sec and with thre FM2 a top shutter speed of 4000th/sec!
Most other features you would get with the other top choices ,like depth of field preview,self timer ,single stroke advance,diopters for finder eye piece,data backs ,motors you get the idea. have fun deciding.

 

[Vonder]

I beleve this is incorrect

The shutter capacitor in the Minolta X700 fails from not being used. You need to fire the shutter every few months to keep it happy. I had one repaired & that's what the repairman told me. I guess it's like on a leaf shutter - you have to exercise it.

Two aging cameras have "known" faults, Canon's superb T-90 and Minolta's X-700. In the T-90's case the problem has something to do with magnets and apparently, exercising the shutter once in a while keeps the problem at bay. In the Minolta's case, the capacitor has liquid inside that simply dries out. No amount of exercise can prevent it, it just happens.

 

[Chazzy]

The shutter capacitor in the Minolta X700 fails from not being used. You need to fire the shutter every few months to keep it happy. I had one repaired & that's what the repairman told me. I guess it's like on a leaf shutter - you have to exercise it.

Maybe I should have bought an XD11, but I love the X-700. As it happens, it is not operational right now, and now I know that it could be the capacitor problem. I hope that fresh capacitors of the correct kind for the camera are still available.

 

[Vonder]

I have a few

Maybe I should have bought an XD11, but I love the X-700. As it happens, it is not operational right now, and now I know that it could be the capacitor problem. I hope that fresh capacitors of the correct kind for the camera are still available.

If you want to try the repair yourself, and are handy with a soldering iron, I believe I still have a few lying around. Let me know.

 

[frdrx]

I'd go for a Yashica FX series SLR with a Zeiss 35 mm Distagon.

 

[briandaly]

There don't seem to be too many fast (faster than 2.8) 35mm primes available for SLRs compared with rangefinders. Maybe I should just get a 1.4 or 1.7 35mm for my rangefinder and keep my gear to a minimum.:confused:

 

[Simon E]

Maybe I should just get a 1.4 or 1.7 35mm for my rangefinder and keep my gear to a minimum.:confused:

But that's the simple option, and doesn't give you the chance to expand your kit

Seriously, if you're happy with RF shooting then that would be the most obvious next step. But will a fast lens really be the answer? They're big, bulky and expensive.

 

[Erik Ehrling]

You can't go wrong with a Nikon FE2 and a Nikkor AI-S 50mm f1.8. If that's too expensive for you, then look at a Nikon FE which can meter with the cheaper non-AI lenses. Expect to give it a CLA unless that has been done already. (All FE/FE2:s are due for light seals replacement.) Also consider adding a 105mm f2.5 and a 28mm f2.8 for a nice walk-around kit.

Regards,
Erik Ehrling (Sweden)

 

[MattKing]

There don't seem to be too many fast (faster than 2.8) 35mm primes available for SLRs compared with rangefinders. Maybe I should just get a 1.4 or 1.7 35mm for my rangefinder and keep my gear to a minimum.:confused:

It is not inexpensive, but I really like my 35mm f/2.0 Zuiko lens for my Olympus OM bodies. It is pretty small, as well (at least compared with other, non Olympus lenses).

Matt