Recommend an Alternative Process - I have no Dark Room

koraks

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Normally developed Tmax .... probably none. Or I doubt you'd get much contrast.

The problem with TMax 100 in sheet film format is, as @MattKing points out, it quite effectively blocks UV. This is only the 100-speed product, though. Tmax 400 will work fine.
And classic cyanotype has a fairly steep curve, which means that it'll produce fine prints from a negative of moderately low contrast.

Classic cyanotype HD curve in blue, from here. Grade 3 negatives tend to work great for classic cyanotype. The curves of New Cyanotype and Simple Cyanotype are different, and longer (esp. New).

I found these cyanotype kits but they don;t seem to work with negatives?
Cyanotype prints with negatives, always. I recommend you do some reading based on @fgorga's excellent advice in #32.
 
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THanks Frank. Scanning my negative with my V850 and then adjusting in Lightroom to make a digital negative seems like the best way to go. What kind of a printer is required to make a print on a clear plastic sheet. DO laser printers work?

Once you have the plastic master sheet, what's the process afterwards for cyanotype?
 
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Alan, to find what neg DR works for Cyanotype (assuming that is what you go with...) just do a ring-around of negatives, all exposed the same, but developed at different times

I imagine it pays to shoot simple shots with simple, broad shapes?
 
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Normally developed Tmax .... probably none. Or I doubt you'd get much contrast.

Alan, to find what neg DR works for Cyanotype (assuming that is what you go with...) just do a ring-around of negatives, all exposed the same, but developed at different times

Assuming I don;t go with digital megatives, would Tri-X work directly with Cyanotype? I could ask the lab to push or pull. Would that help?
 
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Thanks for the tips.
 
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I do have a slop sink in my laundry room. I have no counter space, however. The room is not lightproof but I can close the door and there are no windows. I suppose I could leave the water running to wash the final prints in a tray at the bottom of the sink? Would that work? Will the chemicals stain the sink?
 

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Most folks use Epson inkjet printers to make digital negatives. However, I imagine that other inkjet printers will also work. I don't know if one can use a laser printer for negatives.

For inkjet negatives I use this material: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7RSXF2. The brand name material is "Pictorico" but this generic works just fine. I assume that there is a equivalent materiel for laser printers.

Chris Anderson's book (https://www.routledge.com/Cyanotype...porary-Practice/Anderson/p/book/9781138338838) is a great resource on all things cyanotype including how to make digital negatives. Highly recommended.

The www.alternativephotography.com website also has much, detailed information on cyanotype including:

https://www.alternativephotography.com/cyanotype-classic-process/
 

koraks

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However, I imagine that other inkjet printers will also work. I don't know if one can use a laser printer for negatives.

To an extent / it depends. For cyanotype, yes. For other processes, dye-based inkjet printers often struggle to lay down sufficient density to get a full contrast range.

Once you have the plastic master sheet, what's the process afterwards for cyanotype?
Bring negative into tight contact with sensitized paper in a contact printing frame. Expose to UV. Wash print until whites are clear.

would Tri-X work directly with Cyanotype?

Yes

I could ask the lab to push or pull. Would that help?

For cyanotype, you could ask them to pull develop and overexpose if the scene is high in contrast. For a low-contrast scene, normal development generally works OK.

I suppose I could leave the water running to wash the final prints in a tray at the bottom of the sink? Would that work? Will the chemicals stain the sink?
Work: yes. Stain: no.

All your questions and many more are answered by reading the resources @fgorga has linked to twice now.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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@Alan Edward Klein Tri-X is a great choice for Alt. processes. I don't know anything about labs or how they work...you'd have to talk to them about it. Maybe they have experience with processing negs for Alt.
 
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I'm not interested in the full process description details yet, only make or break questions whether I'm going to do it at all. I;ve got to be able to do this without interfering with the operation of the house, according to my wife.
 

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With Plus-X and Tri-X exposed and processed normally (no push/pull), I never had a problem with cyanotype.

If you don't want to use the sink, you can process cyanotype in a bucket with frequent water changes. It's a very flexible clearing process.

For me, in similarly constrained environment, the most difficult part was finding a dark place to dry the coated paper (and finding the best paper for the look I was loooking for).
 

koraks

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I;ve got to be able to do this without interfering with the operation of the house

You can, don't worry. Many of us have dealt with that situation. Where there's a will, there's a way. As long as your wife can either release you from her company for an hour, or at least position herself on a chair in the corner with a book for the same amount of time, you can make cyanotypes in your own home without posing a threat to its structural integrity, or even its cleanliness for that matter.

The only real make or break question is whether you want to engage in this. And in all honesty, either answer is perfectly valid.
 
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@Alan Edward Klein Tri-X is a great choice for Alt. processes. I don't know anything about labs or how they work...you'd have to talk to them about it. Maybe they have experience with processing negs for Alt.

I emailed my lab with questions on how to get high contrast sheet negatives. I'll post them here when they answer. Tks.
 
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Does the paper continue to develop even after you wash it? Is there another way to fix it besides drying?
 

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Does the paper continue to develop even after you wash it? Is there another way to fix it besides drying?

No. Washing is to rid the paper of extraneous chemistry and clear the white. Cyanotype isn't "fixed" in the traditional sense of that word. The Prussian Blue is stable; It's the excess chemistry tht is unstable and needs to be removed.

I really suggest you read about the process in one of the simple end-to-end explanations suggested earlier.

The part you highlighted is after the chemistry is coated onto the paper, when the coated paper becomes light sensitive after drying; before exposure.
 

BrianShaw

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P.S. I understand why some of those other references seem overwhelming. Try this one for an exceedingly basic explationof the process; It's a really quick read:


 

koraks

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I emailed my lab with questions on how to get high contrast sheet negatives. I'll post them here when they answer. Tks.

Please note that you don't want very high-contrast negatives for classic cyanotype. You actually want them to be a bit on the low-contrast side, but with plenty of separation in the shadows. Also, 'high contrast' is very subjective; if the lab is worth their salt, they should reply with a follow-up question what you need specifically. For instance, Van Dyke brown likes 'high contrast' negatives, but so does salted paper, but the specific requirements are significantly different.
 
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The room does not have to be very dark (except for drying freshly coated paper. Safe lights can be any light that does not pump out any UV (and not a whole lot of blue/violet). Buying pre-coated paper will make everything pretty easy for you. The biggest danger about coating cyanotypes is getting the coating chemicals on anything besides the paper. It will look like you have everything cleaned up well, then as UV hits, your spills will start turning blue!

I use a folding Costco table set up in the kitchen to do most of my processing. I have a work surface (33"x72") in the bathroom (over what use to be the bathtub) if I need to work in complete darkness. If I am worried about spills I place the processing tray in a larger tray to rein in any splashes from agitating. If you are using 4x5 negatives to make contact prints, then printing on 5x7 paper and processing in 8x10 trays will be fine -- use an 11x14 or 12x16 tray to contain spills.

Washing does not need to be under running water. After an initial good rinse to get surface chemicals off, a series of standing water washes are fine. Replace the water in the wash tray every 5 minutes or so, 5 or 6 times, is what I do.

Consider where to dry prints (both for drying prints after coating and after processing). A couple wires or cord temporally stretched out somewhere (garage, over the bathtub, etc) work fine. Drying screens (window screens) are great but take up space.
 
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