Recirculating wash water

Sonatas XII-50 (Life)

A
Sonatas XII-50 (Life)

  • 1
  • 1
  • 1K
Tower and Moon

A
Tower and Moon

  • 3
  • 0
  • 1K
Light at Paul's House

A
Light at Paul's House

  • 3
  • 2
  • 2K
Slowly Shifting

Slowly Shifting

  • 0
  • 0
  • 2K
Waiting

Waiting

  • 1
  • 0
  • 2K

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
199,729
Messages
2,795,733
Members
100,011
Latest member
Reynolds
Recent bookmarks
0

KEK

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2005
Messages
104
Format
Multi Format
Water restrictions being what they are in this day and age i'm looking for anyone who has any thoughts on or may be using a recirculating system on there print or film washers. I always feel a little guilty when i have the water running for extended periods and besides that my water utilty will triple my cost if i go over my set limit.

I've thought about the dump system but it seems very time consuming and time is something that i don't have alot of.

Thanks in advance

Kevin
 

Roger Hicks

Member
Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
4,895
Location
Northern Aqu
Format
35mm RF
Water restrictions being what they are in this day and age i'm looking for anyone who has any thoughts on or may be using a recirculating system on there print or film washers. I always feel a little guilty when i have the water running for extended periods and besides that my water utilty will triple my cost if i go over my set limit.

I've thought about the dump system but it seems very time consuming and time is something that i don't have alot of.

Thanks in advance

Kevin
Dear Kevin,

Dump or cascade are the only options, as it is a question of equilibrium between the material and the water. Film washing is easy -- use the Ilford system, discussed at nauseam here on APUG -- and RC doesn't need much washing either, but for FB you need either a cascade (prints moving upsream through, say, 3 cascades until they are washed) or an auto-dump. Of course a wash aid (2% sulphite, 0.2-0.4% EDTA) helps.

Cheers,

Roger
 

Neal

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Messages
2,020
Location
Chicago, West Suburbs
Format
Multi Format
Dear KEK,

A good print washer does not require a high flow of water. I set mine so the water just drips out. Film requires very little water for washing. Follow the Ilford guidelines and your water bill will be fine.

Neal Wydra
 

Monophoto

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Messages
1,689
Location
Saratoga Spr
Format
Multi Format
Kevin -

The dump approach is the most economical approach both in terms of water usage and time.

For example - two rolls of 35mm film in a small tank. Volume = 400 ml, or about 13.5 ounces of liquid. The post-fix sequence I use is -

Soak - 400ml for 5 min with occasional agitation.
Hypoclear - 400ml for 2 minutes with continuous agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - Photoflo in RO water for about a minute (solution is saved for reuse)
Hang to dry

That's a total of 2400ml (0.63 gal) of water used in the wash cycle, with an elapsed time of around 30 minutes. And I can be doing other things during that 30 minutes of wash time.

Similar process applies to prints (without the Photoflo, of course) although the total volume is more like 10 liters, or 2.6 gallons. Time is a bit longer - because it takes longer to squeegee prints than it does to hang a roll of negatives.
 

Anscojohn

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
2,704
Format
Medium Format
What means RO water??
Anscojohn, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA
 

Monophoto

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Messages
1,689
Location
Saratoga Spr
Format
Multi Format
RO water is water that has been processed through a reverse osmosis filtration system. The purity of the water with respect to particulates is equivalent to that of distilled water but it still may contain dissolved minerals.
 

Loose Gravel

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2003
Messages
964
Location
Santa Barbar
Dear Kevin,

Dump or cascade are the only options, as it is a question of equilibrium between the material and the water. Film washing is easy -- use the Ilford system, discussed at nauseam here on APUG -- and RC doesn't need much washing either, but for FB you need either a cascade (prints moving upsream through, say, 3 cascades until they are washed) or an auto-dump. Of course a wash aid (2% sulphite, 0.2-0.4% EDTA) helps.

Cheers,

Roger

Roger, are you sure this is entirely an equilibrium process? I'm suspicious that it starts that way and them become more like a random event of capturing a stray molecule when it is released from the paper/film, much like pulling a high vacuum on a vessel. With vacuums, there is a time in the beginning when everywhere within in the vessel has the same concentration and the gas flows like a fluid, but after a shrot while there are only a relative few particles left bouncing around within the vessel. At this point the problem changes. The pump cannot pull any harder and it becomes a waiting game. As the particles eventually bounce towards the vacuum pump, they are trapped and taken away almost one-by-one. I should think this time might happen fairly quickly washing prints/film and after this it would be fine to have a recirculating bath trapping the stray molecule followed a final clean rinse.
 

Roger Hicks

Member
Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
4,895
Location
Northern Aqu
Format
35mm RF
Roger, are you sure this is entirely an equilibrium process?

No, not sure, but then, that's also how a dump or cascade process works: very fast at first, then much slower, hence the 5-10-20 inversions of the Ilford process. With dumps you could almost certainly go 1 min -- 5 min -- 10min. Add 20 min and you'd be well placed.

Cheers,

Roger
 

jmdavis

Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Messages
523
Location
VA
Format
Large Format
I don't water the grass, seldom wash the car, wash two loads or less of laundry per week. For those reasons if it takes 30 minutes to wash the fibre prints, then 30 minutes it is.

Mike
 

dancqu

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2002
Messages
3,649
Location
Willamette V
Format
Medium Format
The dump approach is the most economical
approach both in terms of water usage and time.
The post-fix sequence I use is -

Soak - 400ml for 5 min with occasional agitation.
Hypoclear - 400ml for 2 minutes with continuous agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - 400 ml for 5 min with very occasional agitation
Soak - Photoflo in RO water for about a minute
(solution is saved for reuse) Hang to dry

That's a total of 2400ml (0.63 gal) of water used ... an elapsed
time of around 30 minutes.

Similar process applies to prints ... although the total volume
is more like 10 liters, or 2.6 gallons. Time is a bit longer -
because it takes longer to squeegee prints than it
does to hang a roll of negatives.

From fix to an agitated two minute still water rinse. Then
with some agitation soak and dump; three wash cycles each
succeeding given more time. Then a one-shot Photo Flo. That
method is most water conservative. All in all 2000ml, Photo-Flo
included, and maybe fifteen minutes. Room temperature H2O
start to finish. Dan
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom