Re-Glue Patterson light baffle?

[HiHoSilver]

Gents, my main tank is a patterson from the mid-80s that just works w/out complaint. I acquired an earlier version that I've used for 120 only. The older tank has the gray top lid w/ the filler hole/funnel being about 1/2 the diameter of the tank. Unlike the later version, it has a light baffle that is permanently (?!) attached to the screw-on lid. The baffle separated from the lid. Any feel as to whether or not it can be re-glued? Any glue suggestion? More hassle than its worth?

I appreciate your thoughts. 'First role from a new to me Super Ikonta are drying now.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Make sure that both surfaces are clean and free of any old cement or glue. Dish detergent, water and a toothbrush. Allow to dry and then use superglue.

 

[StephenT]

I was going to recommend contact cement, but I think Gerald knows best. He's a chemist and would know if superglue was best in a chemical environment.

Gerald, would the gel superglue work? It would give a bit more working time, but I wonder if it would hold as well.

 

[HiHoSilver]

Gerald & Stephen, Thank You! 'Wasn't sure if normal glues would interact w/ processing chemisty and fail or corrupt the negs.

I appreciate your kind help!

 

[Gerald C Koch]

If there will be no gap between the baffle and the tank top then a superglue is the best bet. These glues are not good in filling gaps. Otherwise an epoxy would also work and fill in any gaps. Both are inert once they set.

 

[gone]

You might want to hit the gluing surfaces w/ a piece of sandpaper (or simply scratch them up w/ a kitchen knife) to give the glue something to bite into too. Gerald has pointed out the correct glues. Epoxy would be my first choice, as I'm just more comfortable w/ it and have more experience w/ it. It will take a long time to set up though, and can be speeded up and made stronger by setting the glued area next to a light bulb (old style bulb). Both glues should be inert to chemicals once dry. If you're not used to mixing up 2 part epoxies, the super glue will probably be best, but make up a jig or clamp of sorts to hold things firmly and tightly in place while the glue sets up.

This is what I generally use for repairs. I've even used it to repair transmission cracks on Toyotas, and never had a failure. It's a metal filled black epoxy called Devcon.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Devcon-Plas...260977?hash=item43e48d18b1:g:N~wAAOSwn51UY-~R

It's available in a somewhat less industrial strength in a 2 tube syringe like this below. This will work fine for your use w/ plastic or metal parts, and the metal is bound up in the epoxy, so no reactivity issues w/ chemicals. You'll find dozens of uses for it around the shop or home. It's chemical resistant and waterproof, and even though it doesn't mention plastics, it works great for just about any material, including wood or ceramic.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Devcon-6234...580128?hash=item2104fc8a60:g:JmMAAOSwwbdWNqKg

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Hi
If you have a System 4, you might found out that the "light baffle" doesn't need any glue.
Is that a grey ring like this one?

Paterson tank System 4 by Ricardo Miranda, on Flickr

Paterson tank System 4 by Ricardo Miranda, on Flickr

 

[paul ron]

if its acrylic or pvc plastic then plastiweld is the right bonding agent. it will melt the plastic n fuse them together permanently as good as new. laquer thinner or pvc cement will work just as good.

test some laquer thinner on a spot to see if it melts tge plastic?

 

[randyB]

When mine sepatated I used epoxy (JB Weld) to fix it. I first lined up where it broke so that the inner part would not be crooked and put epoxy on both parts so as to make a complete seal. I've been using that top for about 15 years, no problems.

 

[HiHoSilver]

'Sure appreciate the kind help, gents

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

You still haven't answered my question: is your tank identical or very similar to mine?
The instructions are here: http://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Paterson/Developing_Tanks/Instructions/System4.pdf
On page 3 you can see a schematic and the sealing ring is indeed a separate item.
What happens is that when you unscrew the top, normally the ring gets stuck in the lid.

 

[tokam]

I think the situation that the OP is dealing with is where the tank lid has come apart as in the attached photo. In my case the earlier owner has attempted to glue the parts together but hasn't used epoxy. I don't know what adhesive was used except that it is brown and quite flakey. Not like epoxy at all. If I attempt to fix this I will clean off most of the glue from the earlier repair and use Araldite, (common local epoxy adhesive).

It's not a huge issue for me as I have 4 good tanks and 3 good lids which I can swap around.

Upon looking closely at the separated lid parts I think you could use them even while separated as the outer part provides the liquid seal against the grey flexible plastic sealing ring. The inner part of the lid provides the light proof seal when it is inserted into the centre column that the film reels slide onto.

 

[Ian Grant]

tokan, that's what 2 pack epoxy looks like when used with a Paterson tank, it separates with time. It all needs removing.

Gerald Koch suggests super glue, but it needs careful application, I use a tooth pick to apply to all edges that need gluing, leave a couple of minutes add more then re-position, that's then very permanent.

Ian

 

[tokam]

Thanks Ian. Do you think that the brown glue is the original ex Patterson? This is the first separated lid I have encountered. I would have thought that the original glue would be of the solvent variety ala Airfix glue for styrene models.

One issue with superglue is that it is not the best for gap filling unless I source some of the thicker superglues used by aeroplane modellers.

As the glue joints are all underneath the light proof baffle when it is fixed to the lid it will not be practical to apply glue and then reposition before application of more glue. It's a one-shot process. Get it right first time. There are five points that the baffle is glued to the lid. Will have to try and establish the best orientation of the baffle to the lid as it was originally assembled. At this point I would then used epoxy or thick superglue to do the joining blind according to the 'best' fit of baffle to lid.

 

[Ian Grant]

No that glue is definitely not original. You need to find the best fit before re-positioning so use tape and mark the position.

Ian

 

[HiHoSilver]

Mine separated as Tokam shows. 'Will prob. epoxy, knowing it won't have trouble w/ the developing chemistry. Thanks again, Gents.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

After all, it was a different thing Mr. Silver.
My 3 reel Paterson is full of cracks on the side, all glued with superglue.

 

[Ian Grant]

Mine separated as Tokam shows. 'Will prob. epoxy, knowing it won't have trouble w/ the developing chemistry. Thanks again, Gents.

Try and avoid Epoxy it's a short term fix, other glues will last 30+ years

Ian