I just bought an RB this week and have not shot a single frame with it yet, so take this with a grain of salt because this is all theory and not a lick of field experience.
I have a decent background in physics and optics. The DofF, hyperfocal distance, and resolving power (circles of confusion vs diffraction) are completely predictable and are independent of film size or format or lens. They depend on focal length (or focus shift on view cameras) and aperture. A high quality lens may give better results, but both the high quality lens and the low quality lens will have the same focus characteristics if they have the same focal length and aperture.
All this is to say, you can buy a focal length calculator app for you phone or iPod, and they work pretty great and are dead on accurate. I use one for 35mm and find I get better results than looking through the viewfinder. This is with Nikkor AI-S primes. I anticipate being able to replicate this on the RB, but like I said I haven't used it (I don't even have a focusing screen yet!!).
The app I use most often does it even one better. I tell it what what I want the DoF to be and what focal length I'm using, and it tells me the aperture will give me that DoF with the smallest blur spot. The blur spot takes into consideration CofC and diffraction. (smaller blur spot=higher resolving power=sharpest image). For instance, if I'm shooting a scene where I want every thing from 20' to infinity in focus with a 50mm lens, it tells me I should use an aperture of 1/3 stop smaller than f11 and it will give me a blur spot the size of about 25 microns and 18 line pairs/mm on a 10" wide print.
That is a lot of information from a $6.99 app and it has dramatically improved my photography. It also has prevented my from taking shots that just wouldn't work if not adequately sharp. No use in wasting film and processing and scanning if it is only going to yield 5 lp/mm on a 10 inch print.
Lots of these calculators are free and you might want to check some out to see if they help.
Chris