RB67 light leaks ok or not?

[rayonline_nz]

I have a trip coming up soon, I am in NZ so expensive and few. I plan to seek service in Hong Kong (and a general checkup given the age of it), got some leads. My parents are from there so they can speak etc. I am going to post some images can you guys have a quick look and see what you think.

Had it for a few months. Shot one roll. Plan to shoot a few evenings in HK with the sunset cityscapes. The B/W roll posted is fresh and processed by hand in a Paterson tank.

1. After the rotation back is off, is there suppose to be a seal around the square? Mine looks fresh with no residue.

2. Top right of the rotation back after the film back is off. Light seal worn?


Cheers.

 

[Kirks518]

Those light seal in Pic 2 definitely need to be replaced. If your other seals (on the film back and elsewhere) resemble those pictured, they should be replaced as well.

 

[shutterfinger]

1. After the rotation back is off, is there suppose to be a seal around the square? Mine looks fresh with no residue.

Look closely at the metal frame around the image gate. Notice the outer edge is 90° to the camera body, then a recess, then a raised portion. The rotating adapter has the opposite pattern and fits onto the camera which forms a positive light seal. For light to get in it will have to bend 90° five times to reach the image path. If either the body side or the adapter side is bent or otherwise deformed then it might leak.
The foam seals at the film holder to rotating adapter should be changed as they are going bad and will cause a leak in the relatively near future.

 

[tedr1]

If you are shooting outdoors in full sun this matters. If you are indoors it probably doesn't.

 

[rayonline_nz]

Thanks for that. Will have the seals done in HK. The film (magazine) back looks good, so does in the cavity where the mirror is. Yes Pic 2 needs work.

I have posted the other side of the rotation back. The side that sandwiches onto the back of the body. From what I have seen online with seal kits they tend to have a foam seal. On mine it's not present....

Page 7 of Jon Goodman's article.
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/seal/RB67_FilmBack.pdf

Yes, I tend to shoot this thing outdoors at sunset and twilight and maybe daylight if the scene is good.

I just bought my 2nd film back online, and went for the Pro SD specifically

 

[paul ron]

change all the seals... including the film backs.

its not expensive n easy enough to do yourself.

 

[rayonline_nz]

The thing is the RB67 kits on ebay cost like $35US ... might be lesser at HK?

 

[John Koehrer]

You can get full sheets of foam from Micro tools. Haven't bought any for along time but it wasn't expensive.
I've found that 2mm thick seems to be the most universal for my use.

 

[paul ron]

$35 is too much to spend? it amazes me... to have a repair shop to refoam an RB would cost about $125. $35 is too much of an investment in a camera that once sold for thousand$.

go see microtools for the assorted size kit for $25. thats enough foam to start a business.

or buy a 2mm thick sheet with adhesive backing for a couple bucks
.
you dont need shapes to fit the camera. cut the foam with a razor knife into the width of strips needed. joints get butted.

 

[flavio81]

$35 is too much to spend? it amazes me... to have a repair shop to refoam an RB would cost about $125. $35 is too much of an investment in a camera that once sold for thousand$.

go see microtools for the assorted size kit for $25. thats enough foam to start a business.

or buy a 2mm thick sheet with adhesive backing for a couple bucks
.
you dont need shapes to fit the camera. cut the foam with a razor knife into the width of strips needed. joints get butted.

Amen brother!! Praise the RB and its lenses!!

 

[rayonline_nz]

Deos Micro Tools ship overseas? Anyone care to provide me a link to their site, don't know what to search it under.

 

[shutterfinger]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5mm-260-3...063292?hash=item43ee41433c:g:jmgAAOSwDJhXMXLD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cameras-Lig...383020?hash=item1eb65a312c:g:3CMAAMXQaA1R4aCe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camera-Ligh...928881?hash=item2114fb37b1:g:3CMAAMXQaA1R4aCe
ebay search light seal foam.

Micro-Tools camera restoration supplies-light baffle
Dead Link Removed

 

[rayonline_nz]

Much thanks for that. I will set a few hours for this project. Yes maybe the original body, the rotation back didn't have the foams around the square face. I had a look at the film back. Up and below the pressure plate the strip of foam wasn't even there, there seems to be some residue, the former owner may have pulled it out and not refoam it. Not sure around the door looks awfully thin will have to try to scrape it out and see.

 

[M Carter]

And try John Goodman. His kits and instructions make it really easy. If your foam is really toast, it's helpful to have the instructions.

 

[rayonline_nz]

Ok ... I have got my stuff now. I searched online and the seals on the revolving back after the film back is taken off - what thickness are those 2 horizontal strips? Here is an image.

http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/Mamiya-RB67/Light-seal/

Top centre image. The top horizontal strip and the bottom horizontal strip.

The articles with the thickness seems to have a square - top bottom left and right foam.

 

[rayonline_nz]

I am doing the project now. I followed a guide and used the mm's that was quoted. I had another look and eBay only provide closed cell foams. I used the 2mm closed cell on the rotation back and the film back wouldn't fit on. So I used the 1mm closed cell foam. Opinions? So I would be using the 1mm closed cell foam everywhere with it?

 

[mesantacruz]

I may be too confident, but I'm 99% certain its not the light seals outside of the back. It actually happens when you re-insert or take out the darkslide. I know because it happened to me. There is some foam where you insert the darkslide that needs to be replaced. It's actually really easy, just take a few screws off and the frame comes off... Very very easy, trust me.
As for the foam, you might also try felt, I used one that sold for 1.99 for (8.5x11 inches) at an arts and crafts store here. Still working after 3 years of heavy use.

 

[rayonline_nz]

Yes take screws off a a there is a foam in the darkslide lip where it slides in. I'll replace the all ....

 

[shutterfinger]

Black yarn and black velvet have been used for light seals in cameras also.

 

[Smudger]

The problem the OP has is using closed cell foam. It does not have enough compression to do the job.
I sell the Aki-Asahi foams locally - all open cell self adhesive.

 

[cb1]

I used the Aki-Asahi kit on my RB67, The hardest part was the square for the revolving back. Everything else was easy if you take your time, have good lighting and proper reading glasses. LOL (the last bit is for me)
After I finished the test roll had no more evidence of leaks.

 

[mesantacruz]

Congratulations!

 

[paul ron]

wooooo hoooooo!!

a job well done always feels rewarding.

 

[rayonline_nz]

More like several hours. The Pro SD back does feels better that it doesn't use foam seals.

OK, I used the 1mm closed cell. All done. Can only check by testing ....
The lip of where the darkslidle goes in changed as well ....
Yes, the open cell are not available on auction sites, unless I were to get the "kits".

Hey - mine looks fine but on the body how important are the seals along the mirror? I mean the mirror goes up and comes back down the back cavity of the body shuts as well. They also have lens shutters also.

 

[MattKing]

Hey - mine looks fine but on the body how important are the seals along the mirror?

Quite important. They don't suffer the same types of wear as the others though.
Remember that the rotating adapter has seals as well.