RA-4 Cyan Cast

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Aidan Sciortino

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Got a fresh box of the Adox Color Mission paper, along with a fresh kit of Arista RA-4 Chemistry.

I’m a decent black and white printer, but I can’t get my head around RA-4. I’m using the tri-color additive method (wratten 25, 58, and 47B) with my 45MX, and developing in my jobo drums.

I consistently get prints with a heavy cyan cast that only affects the image area. At first I blamed the red LEDs of my timer, but I’ve eliminated this as a factor and my problems persist.

I figured a good way to diagnose would be to expose my test image only through the green and blue filters, exposing the Magenta- and Yellow-forming layers of the emulsion hopefully giving me an incredibly red print.

This failed miserably, giving me a strange Cyan-Green print, photo attached.

I’m so confused, and feel like I’m going crazy.
 

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koraks

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OK, first, have you eliminated any possibility of a mixing error? Also, is there any possibility whatsoever of the developer being contaminated with blix (although I'd expect cyan marks on the white borders in that case)?

One thing you should test is to take a strip of fully exposed paper (exposed to normal room light) and process it normally. Wash and dry (!) This should of course come out pitch black. Please verify if this indeed happens.

Getting a low-contrast, cyan print when using blue & green filters is pretty darn odd indeed. Are these filters in good condition (can you post a photo of them)?

Out of curiosity - are you doing three consecutive exposures with different times?
 
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Aidan Sciortino

Aidan Sciortino

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OK, first, have you eliminated any possibility of a mixing error? Also, is there any possibility whatsoever of the developer being contaminated with blix (although I'd expect cyan marks on the white borders in that case)?
I re-mixed fresh developer in a new bottle when I started observing the problem. The bottle contained dilute photo flo previously but I washed it out thoroughly along with my mixing equipment.
Getting a low-contrast, cyan print when using blue & green filters is pretty darn odd indeed. Are these filters in good condition (can you post a photo of them)?
I got them from the classifieds here last week, they’re beautiful! Photograph attached.
Out of curiosity - are you doing three consecutive exposures with different times?
Yes, in the example I posted I didn’t do a red exposure; 10 seconds of green, 36 of blue.

I did introduce a stop as well when I started seeing this issue, 30 seconds between the dev and blix.
 

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Aidan Sciortino

Aidan Sciortino

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This is the paper which I exposed to room light and subsequently developed. I’m waiting for it to dry now. Is this how it normally looks wet? Or perhaps the cyan-producing layer is the only layer getting any development?
One thing you should test is to take a strip of fully exposed paper (exposed to normal room light) and process it normally. Wash and dry (!) This should of course come out pitch black. Please verify if this indeed happens.
 

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mshchem

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fujifilm crystal archive paper has a blue color before development, most of the color rinses off in prewet. I use yellow and magenta filtration dichro, before the dichro I used acetate yellow and magenta CC filters.

What you are doing should work when you hit the right combination. Tricky.
 
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Aidan Sciortino

Aidan Sciortino

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A few more data points before I must leave the darkroom for the evening;

The Color Mission, exposed to full room light and developed, dried down to a bright cyan without any other color;
IMG_6892.jpeg

Additionally, I had a few sheets of endura on hand, now four years expired. I cut one down and exposed it too to room light, and got this back;
IMG_6893.jpeg

Since both sheets came out weird, this leads me to think it’s likely something is wrong with my chemistry. Perhaps I’ll invest in some of the Kodak Minilab chemistry instead of continuing to try and get this arista kit to work
 

koraks

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This looks like gross underdevelopment to me. What temperature and time do you use for development? Is the developer fresh (i.e. not expired/old stock)? I'm not familiar with the Arista product; do you have some documentation for it?
 

koraks

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I don't see any fault in what you're describing. What is/was the color of the developer concentrates, in particular the smallest bottle (I think that's B in this kit)?
 
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Aidan Sciortino

Aidan Sciortino

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I don't see any fault in what you're describing. What is/was the color of the developer concentrates, in particular the smallest bottle (I think that's B in this kit)?
Bottle B is this “straw” color; it’s a little more pinkish to my eye than my iPhone camera renders it.
IMG_6896.jpeg

Something is also fishy with the printed instructions that came with the kit. Notably the mixing instructions differ heavily from those online, and the ratios are off;

IMG_6895.jpeg
 
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Aidan Sciortino

Aidan Sciortino

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I remixed the chemistry today according to the online instructions, and my results are now quite good.

I’ll send freestyle an email to let them know about the error, and I’ll post some results when the prints dry.

Only problem now is that this is habit-forming and I’m going to need more color chemistry and paper :smile:
 

koraks

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Ah, perfect! Good job on figuring this out! The instructions Freestyle supplied with the chemistry appear to be for a completely different product. What a silly mistake. I'm happy to hear your printing is now satisfactory again!

need more color chemistry and paper
Fortunately, these are generally in decent supply. If you intend to do a lot of printing, you could consider getting paper in rolls instead of boxes of cut sheet. It's generally a lot cheaper that way. You may also be able to obtain higher-quality papers that way since much of the cut sheet around is plain-Jane Crystal Archive and that's technically their most entry-level product (see the mottling on the cyan print you made; it's a 'feature' of this paper).
 
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