r72 and polariser question

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Paul Manuell

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I'll be interested to see the effect of 4 stops overexposure. Please show us your "positive" negs. From what I have gleaned from various threads on the R72 the best IR effect seems to come from between 5-6 stops over. If you have used all of the film by now then my next suggestion is too late but you might want to try the same shot in 3 consecutive exposures of 4,5 and 6 stops over to see what, if any, differences there are and which is the best for you.

pentaxuser
I'll be interested to see the effect of 4 stops overexposure. Please show us your "positive" negs. From what I have gleaned from various threads on the R72 the best IR effect seems to come from between 5-6 stops over. If you have used all of the film by now then my next suggestion is too late but you might want to try the same shot in 3 consecutive exposures of 4,5 and 6 stops over to see what, if any, differences there are and which is the best for you. My experience with SFX was that a black sky was achievable with a red 25 and based on this I don't think a blacker sky would be possible but what is crucial is how much "Wood effect" you get with a R72 and 4,5 and 6 stops over. That "Wood effect" which turns deciduous foliage a silvery-white was almost non existent with a red 25

Incidentally at U.K. latitudes and normal heights I found that SFX and a red 25 gave me a much blacker sky and whiter clouds than a normal film with red 25 and polariser

pentaxuser
Roller
I'll be interested to see the effect of 4 stops overexposure. Please show us your "positive" negs. From what I have gleaned from various threads on the R72 the best IR effect seems to come from between 5-6 stops over. If you have used all of the film by now then my next suggestion is too late but you might want to try the same shot in 3 consecutive exposures of 4,5 and 6 stops over to see what, if any, differences there are and which is the best for you. My experience with SFX was that a black sky was achievable with a red 25 and based on this I don't think a blacker sky would be possible but what is crucial is how much "Wood effect" you get with a R72 and 4,5 and 6 stops over. That "Wood effect" which turns deciduous foliage a silvery-white was almost non existent with a red 25

Incidentally at U.K. latitudes and normal heights I found that SFX and a red 25 gave me a much blacker sky and whiter clouds than a normal film with red 25 and polariser

pentaxuser
I agree, there do seem to be various opinions on how much overexposure to dial in, but the main reason I chose 4 stops was due to a very useful thread I found on here - Rollei IR400S - it's not HIE, but WOW - in which photos were posted of shots taken with that film at various settings, and to me, the 4 stops over example looked the best.
I also agree about bracketing shots, it's just that I've got quite a few subjects I'm going to shoot and wouldn't be able to get them all done if I bracketed 3 shots on each one. I might do it on just one of the subjects though.
 
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Paul Manuell

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I do not get the four stops over thing either. The film manufacturers know much more than you do about the film. Just shot it at box speed and it will work as advertised.
I AM shooting it at box speed - 200 iso. The overexposure is to do with compensating for having a filter on the lens.
 

Sirius Glass

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Roller

I agree, there do seem to be various opinions on how much overexposure to dial in, but the main reason I chose 4 stops was due to a very useful thread I found on here - Rollei IR400S - it's not HIE, but WOW - in which photos were posted of shots taken with that film at various settings, and to me, the 4 stops over example looked the best.
I also agree about bracketing shots, it's just that I've got quite a few subjects I'm going to shoot and wouldn't be able to get them all done if I bracketed 3 shots on each one. I might do it on just one of the subjects though.


I had very good luck with HIE using the camera's light meter set at box speed and taking the readings through the filters. I have heard varying results taking light readings by holding the filters in front of a light meter.
 
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