R3 Monobath Developer

[bbiess]

I'm getting back into shooting B&W film and am interested in developing it myself. I've got a decent scanner, so I'm planning on scanning and printing the negs ... at least initially. A friend has offered me his enlarger and some other miscellaneous darkroom equipment, so I eventually make go completely analog.

Dead Link Removed is very appealing as it appears to be dead-simple to use. Has anyone used it? What are the general thoughts of this product/process? Am I better off investing in the traditional chemicals and processes instead?

Any help, recommendations or feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

[vdonovan]

I've used it. It's a fun developer (and I'm a big fan of New55) but it's a little finicky, especially for roll film.

For a beginner, I would recommend starting with the basics, like Kodak D-76 developer with Ilford Rapid Fixer. You'll get good, repeatable results, and its actually less expensive than R3.

Once you've got your basic developing technique down, then its easier to start experimenting with other techniques, like R3 monobath (or developing in coffee, my favorite alternative developer).

 

[Gerald C Koch]

There was a thread on this very question a few weeks ago. Check the APUG archives. Monobaths are more of a curiousity than a valid developing method despite what you may have read. The R3 monobath seems to be a commercial version of the Donald Qualls monobath as given here. So if you are still intested save money and mix your own.

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

For decades monobaths have come and gone. They have all quickly failed for one of more reasons. Mainly they did not live up to their claims. For more information get yourself a used copy of the Grant Haist Monobath Manual.

 

[darkosaric]

For a beginner, I would recommend starting with the basics, like Kodak D-76 developer with Ilford Rapid Fixer.

+1.
You write you want "dead-simple" --> then use one developer and rapid fixer. It can be D76, or HC110, or Rodinal, or Xtol, or whatever. Use one and don't think about if one is better than other.
After 1 year you can think about changing the developer .

 

[railwayman3]

+1.
You write you want "dead-simple" --> then use one developer and rapid fixer. It can be D76, or HC110, or Rodinal, or Xtol, or whatever. Use one and don't think about if one is better than other.
After 1 year you can think about changing the developer .

Excellent advice....there are so many variables in photography that it's best to thoroughly get to know and master one process (and keep to just one or two films, maybe a slow-to-medium speed film, plus perhaps one high-speed film is you are into action or poor-light pictures) before you even think about experimenting.

(One of my own most satisfying times in photography was the "last year" of Kodachrome....I made numerous trips out and took hundreds of shots of different subjects, and, for the first time ever, I really felt that I'd "mastered" a film (at least technically ).

I've tried monobaths in the past, they seem an easy option and can have their uses, but as others have said above, there are disadvantages and I would keep to the more traditional and developers. We each have our preferences with these, but you can't go wrong with any of the basic proprietory ones, such as D76. Just start from the published time and temperature for your particular film.

 

[bbiess]

Great advice! Thank you.

 

[TenSpeed]

I just got my new55 monobath, i bought it to support new55 but also i like the idea of a monobath if i ever want to take my bw developing on the road

 

[John Cee]

I mix a lot of my own chemistry. Photographers Formulary loves me! I tried the Qualls HC-110 (aka New 55) as well as the Crawley FX-6 monobath formulas with several films. The Qualls with TX400 seemed to yield the best results in my experience. However that experience included poor tonal range on both ends of the curve. So best to meter it like color reversal and expose for shadows or highlights but don't expect both.

If you are looking for simple with far better results than monobath, try Stand Development. Lots of info out there in terms of developers, times and dilutions. It works well with just developer, fixer, rinse and dry. Can't get much simpler than that. My favorite is Rodinal diluted 1:100.

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk

 

[bbiess]

Okay, I've got a few rolls of Tmax (120) that I'd like to develop and would like to place an order for the supplies I'll need. I've got a tank, a changing bag and accessories like a thermometer, measuring cups, clips, etc, but I need chemicals.

Based on the advice provided above I'm thinking D-76 with Ilford Rapid Fixer. Is there anything else I need?

 

[vdonovan]

Photoflo. Indicator stop bath. Both are inexpensive and make life a little easier.

To save water, use the Ilford archival washing technique, described on the Ilford Rapid Fixer data sheet.

Major headache saver: practice loading your film many times before you try it with real film. It's actually worth wasting a roll of film, just so you have a roll to practice with. Load the reel several times in the light with your eyes open. The try it again several times with eyes closed. Then practice in the changing bag. Practice many times. Believe me it will make your life better when you go to develop your first roll of real film.

Save your practice roll. I still practice a few times before each developing session, just to remind myself what I'm doing.

 

[bbiess]

I'm specifically interested in thoughts around the need for a stop-bath and photoflow. I've seen the technique where a drop of dishsoap is used instead of a wetting agent. Does this work? Do I needs additional stuff?

 

[Gerald C Koch]

If you need a wetting agent then invest in a bottle of Photo-Flo. One bottle should last a VERY long time. Leave the dish stuff for the dishes,

 

[MattKing]

What Gerald said. Dish soap has in it perfume and stuff to make it gentle on your hands. Who knows what long term damage that might do to your film.

Photo Flo (or any competitive product) is designed to aid in drying film, and nothing else. It is intended to aid in the long term preservation of your film. And, it is cheap, and a small bottle will suffice for a huge number of films.

As for stop bath, I don't know where you would use it in a monobath process, because it is usually used between the developer and the fixer.

If for some reason you are following up your monobath with a separate fixer stage, stop bath will aid in maximizing the use and efficiency of that extra fixer stage. Stop bath is also very inexpensive.

 

[bbiess]

A bit of clarification here. I'm abandoning the idea of a monobath in favor of a more traditional D-76-based processing. With that in mind do I need a stop-bath or can I go from developer to fixer? The information I've found on the subject seemed to be split 50/50 on whether a stop-bath is necessary.

Any help is appreciated as I'm hoping to order all my chemicals this weekend. Thanks!!

 

[jacaquarie]

For what it is worth, stop bath is optional.
With Stop bath two things happen.
One, the development is stopped. Two the developer is halted in it's action and this lets the fixer last longer.
I will admit I use a water rinse instead of a stop bath. This is my work flow and your results may vary.
Try with and without.
I also use distilled water as the final rinse for my film.

Aj

 

[Gerald C Koch]

I never use a stop bath with film preferring a brief water rinse. Some people argue that an acid stop bath is needed to quickly stop development. However the amount of developer actually in the film emulsion is not enough to increase development by any meaningful amount. An acid stop bath is really only needed for FB prints. In this case developer carryover can effect the pH of the fixing bath.

 

[bbiess]

Great info. Thanks very much.