Questions on chemicals and film

[rhyno0688]

Hello all, I want you to learn me something!

Fyi, I'm primarily talking about film

I have processed b&w at school several years ago and processed all my film and prints but everything else was basically done for the class (me) as in buying chemicals, mixing them etc. My questions are, what is the best bang for my dollar - I don't want something inconsistent or just crappy in general nor do I need the best stuff out there, i'm just trying to make my money go a little further. What do the hobbyist out there use?

Also, do you use the chemicals you use more than once(replenisher?), or do you use it once then dump it down the drain? - I can't remember, it's been a few years and had a few drinks in between :confused:

I'm tying to re-learn all the stuff I did know, and at the same time learn a lot more.

Just a little background, I just took basic photo classes but excelled more than a few as in while everyone was shooting 35mm i started shooting MF then shortly went to a Tachihara 4x5 and developed all my negatives and prints but never learned about the different types of chemicals and films. I was geting to the point where I was learning pushing and pulling but didn't really practice it much so I don't remember much.

I'm also looking at getting a daylight bulk loader and some single roll, is there any fairly cheap films that are good at pushing?

I know I am still going to need to experiment a bit but am truly just looking for a direction to go in while funds are a little tighter (mostly because i just spent some dough on film tanks, spools, and camera gear)

I would appreciate any articles anyone knows off the top of their heads.

Thank you,
Ryan

 

[snapguy]

First

The first thing I would do is get ahold of Freestyle's catalog and really take a hard look at what they offer. Ditto with the other advertisers on APUG, too. I'd try to find a photography store that still knows what a film camera is. Some of them have not gone 100 percent over to digital and you can sometimes find some great bargains there. I use Ilford Pan 50 b&w film and am very happy. I like a slower film these days. I can "soup" it in HD110 or Diafine for more or less film speed. I try to buy dry chemicals because they are easier to get shipped. You have to look all over the place to find bargains and they are out there. Good luck.

 

[rhyno0688]

Thanks, and lets just say that any local shop I have around here won't be able to help much. I saw somewher that ilford pan 50 is a little hard to work with, have you found that to be true?

 

[Fixcinater]

I like HC110 because it's cheap enough, very simple for roll film (I use 5ml per roll and fill the tank up) if you skip all the sub-dilutions and repeatable. Use it once, toss it.

I use plain water stop bath to save on buying/storing/worrying about another chemical. Not that it's such an issue but the less to worry about, the better for me.

I'd recommend any 400 speed film, preferably non-T-grain while you are learning and experimenting. After quite a bit of doing it myself, I feel up to the task of souping Tmax and Delta and the like, whereas before I didn't have my process down. Foma isn't really 400 speed, so try for Tri-X or HP5 as those will give you the most latitude for any errors that you may stumble into.

 

[rhyno0688]

What exactly is "souping?" I only learned the more basic process.
Also, from what i understand the t-grain films are a little less forgiving?

 

[Fixcinater]

It's just slang for processing film.

Yes, I think most would agree that you have to be a bit more precise with the modern emulsions. I've certainly found that to be true with TMAX 400 vs. Tri-X, to give one example.


The biggest thing for me when just starting out (I'm by no means an expert now) was just eliminating variables and running through the process a bunch of times and establishing good habits. That's more important than any film or developer or camera choice or what have you. Get your basics right, then you can start branching out a bit if you feel the need.

 

[AgX]

What exactly is "souping?" I only learned the more basic process.

To my understanding it is just another term, used by some american-fellows, for applying a developer.

 

[NickLimegrove]

To my understanding it is just another term, used by some american-fellows, for applying a developer.

so you're not referring to the stuff you throw your film in as ›Suppe‹?

 

[AgX]

Well, with eadible developing agents and that terminology question in mind I wonder if I did not mis-understand "souping" all the time..

 

[NickLimegrove]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Xmas]

Hello all, I want you to learn me something!

Fyi, I'm primarily talking about film

I have processed b&w at school several years ago and processed all my film and prints but everything else was basically done for the class (me) as in buying chemicals, mixing them etc. My questions are, what is the best bang for my dollar - I don't want something inconsistent or just crappy in general nor do I need the best stuff out there, i'm just trying to make my money go a little further. What do the hobbyist out there use?

Also, do you use the chemicals you use more than once(replenisher?), or do you use it once then dump it down the drain? - I can't remember, it's been a few years and had a few drinks in between :confused:

I'm tying to re-learn all the stuff I did know, and at the same time learn a lot more.

Just a little background, I just took basic photo classes but excelled more than a few as in while everyone was shooting 35mm i started shooting MF then shortly went to a Tachihara 4x5 and developed all my negatives and prints but never learned about the different types of chemicals and films. I was geting to the point where I was learning pushing and pulling but didn't really practice it much so I don't remember much.

I'm also looking at getting a daylight bulk loader and some single roll, is there any fairly cheap films that are good at pushing?

I know I am still going to need to experiment a bit but am truly just looking for a direction to go in while funds are a little tighter (mostly because i just spent some dough on film tanks, spools, and camera gear)

I would appreciate any articles anyone knows off the top of their heads.

Thank you,
Ryan

try this site for refresher

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=31

panf is good if you have enough light
forget about pushing until you can print well
Tmax, Delta or Acros are all ok at box ISO if you can meter
some developers are used as stock several times some once only
stop, fix & hypo clear can be reused as described on bottle or package.

 

[Truzi]

Stone's Soup

(I've always looked for an excuse to joke about this when Stone says he "soups" something.)

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I mix all my processing chemicals from scratch and only buy raw chemicals in bulk.The only processing bath I use more than once is the stop bath, everything else is used one-shotexcept for the fixer,which is potentially used twice in the two-bath fixing regimine

 

[MattKing]

Here is the Kodak take on chemicals for black and white film: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/e103cf/e103cf.pdf . Use this in conjunction with: http://wwwtr.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf

HC-110 is a convenient, high quality, inexpensive choice for developer.

You might want to try the unofficial 1+49 dilution: (there was a url link here which no longer exists) . Effectively, it is the same as seldom seen dilution E.

For lots more HC-110 info: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

For film, many don't use stop-bath (flowing water instead) or Hypo Clearing Agent/Washaid (longer washing instead).

I do - stop bath stops development reliably and quickly, extends the life of my fixer, and is recommended by my fixer supplier (Kodak).

And HCA gives me extra certainty.

A good book is a great idea. Henry Horenstein's books are excellent.

 

[rhyno0688]

Thank you everyone for all the info and resources. This helps and pod me in a direction to go, at least for the time being.

Thank you,
Ryan