Questions after first self-development

[Juri]

A while ago I developed a roll of film for the first time and was quite amazed that there was actually something on each frame. There was just one problem -the images were kind of faint, dark and lacked contrast, depiceted by the example below. So should I just add a minute to the developing time? Or 2?

I was using a Fomadon LQN that expired in May 2010. Is there any way to tell, how much developing time I should add because of the expiration?

 

[jeffreyg]

Assuming that the film was properly exposed to begin with (?) I suggest using fresh chemicals and follow the manufacturer's recommendation as to mixing the working solution, temperature, time and agitation. Once you get consistently good results then modify if necessary to get some other look you may be seeking. If you have a set procedure and something goes wrong it is more easily corrected. I would follow that each time a new material is tried. What might work in one person's hands may not for another.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[lensman_nh]

I will second what Jeffrey said.

I would also switch to D-76 (or ID-11 for the Ilford Lovers like myself) for learning with. It is pretty much the gold standard for film developers in that every film manufacturer ensures their film works well with it. If fresh D-76 at 1+1 processed at the time and temp for the film is giving you issues then you need to look elsewhere than the processing. Once you get the basics down then you can switch developers and techniques to tune your results to your taste.

Looking at your image I am guessing exhausted chemistry. In general developers that are liquid do not keep well.

 

[Juri]

Thank you for the replies. I forgot to mention that I did everything "by the book", exept that I kind of guessed the developing time. Internet suggests 9,5 minutes for HP5+, I developed for 11 as the film was actually exposed at ISO 800. The expired developer is probably also to be blamed, but I think next time I'm be able to compensate the expiration with longer developing time.

However, my basic question was that should I lengthen the developing time in order to achieve higher contrast.

 

[George Collier]

You don't say what this is a scan of -
The neg, then reversed?
The print? If the print, what grade paper?
It's difficult to say much, although, I agree with the others that it looks very flat, but does have shadow detail, so may be properly exposed. It could be a print of an ok negative, printed on a very low grade paper.

 

[Juri]

In spite of all the suggestions I used the expired developer again. By now the liquid developer had turned yellow. Instead of diluting it 1:9, I used it 1:7 and this time compensated the extra stop by adding several minutes to developing time. I was very suprised when it turned out nicer than I could even expect. So it just needed more developer. If I wanted a perfect result each time, I would just use my digital camera. This kind of experimenting and unexpectedness is why I develop my film and will do it even with expired chemicals.