Cibachrome and Ilfochrome are basically different trade names for the same materials.
The name change is due to the Ciba company retrating from the business.
ILFOCHROME CLASSIC is the new name for the well known CIBACHROME positive to positive color printing materials. There is no difference in quality or processing between either product.
Stone, if you ever feel like doing a road trip, I have a Beseler 23cII you can have for free. I only have a 35mm carrier for it but all other size carriers and lenses can be had cheap.
The Beseler 23C will do up to 6x9cm negatives. If you wanted to go into an orgy of customization, you probably could build a lamphouse for it that would illuminate 4x5, but it would not be cost-effective. But the 23C is a terrific enlarger (I have a spare one sitting around as well) and I would be using it were it not for the fact that I do mostly large format work now and I have a Beseler 45M-series (I forget which one it is, MCRX? MC? blue chassis). The 23C is very rigid and solid. You can flip the head 90 degrees to project on a wall if you want to print really big. The 23C and the Omega D-series enlargers were the mainstays of school darkrooms for decades, for a very good reason - they're well nigh indestructible. Do check the elevation mechanism on any one you look at to make sure it is smooth and doesn't slip when stopped. Also check that the negative stage and baseboard can be made parallel - bring a little level with you and first check the level of the surface on which the enarger rests. Then compare that to the baseboard, and the negative stage. If the baseboard is warped, it isn't the end of the world - that can be remedied by a trip to Home Depot to get some good 1/4" plywood. If the negative stage is bent, walk away from it. It is possible that it can be fixed, but it is not cost-effective.
Stone,
I used to have one of those enlargers! I custom fitted the 6x6 carrier with a mat board dirty border 35mm opening and I made a slot where I could slip my Stouffer step wedge and show one step. This made a makeshift densitometer out of it (I'd use an enlarging meter to null on a part of my negative, then pull the negative carrier out halfway to show the step wedge. I would slide the step wedge back and forth until I found the step where the meter nulled. Then I knew my range). Ah, the good old days, never could do that with the D-II
My wife still kids me about the Minor White Zone System Manual because I keep leaving it out. "Haven't you memorized it already?"
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