Questions about Fiber Based Paper

[Darkroom317]

I made a RC print yesterday that I particularly like. I would like to make a larger print on fiber based paper. I printed with the equivalent variable contrast of 3, I use an enlarger with a dichro head.

First: If I was to want to go with graded paper, would that contrast filter number carry over, would I need to get paper that is graded at 3?

Second: What chemical and bath setup would I need for this?

 

[ozphoto]

I regularly print both RC and FB.
9/10 the contrast is the same (Grade 3 on RC=Grade 3 on FB) but there have been instances where it has differed slightly.

Making the larger image will mean you need to extend your exposure time to achieve the same result.

You don't need different chemicals, unless you wish to make the print slightly warmer - in which case using a "warm tone" developer is needed.
I have successfully processed my FB prints in Neutol NE and WA (NE is neutral developer, the WA is for warm tone).

Stop and fix are the same as RC - you will just need to wash the FB prints longer than you do RC. There are several threads on washing both film and paper that will explain further the importance of wash times vs. archival permanence vs. reduced water usage.

 

[clayne]

That 9/10 figure only remotely holds true if it's the same paper from the same manufacturer. The second things are different, forget it!

 

[Rick A]

You will have to run new time/contrast test strips for the different paper and enlargment size, all chems you have will work. Use HCA after an initial wash, then wash a bunch more. The finished print will look somewhat different due to different paper and/or surface finish, and tend to curl (press it after dry under a pile of books). Glossy FB looks slightly less glossy than RC unless you ferrotype it. Personally, I like semi-gloss or pearl finish for FB paper on warm tone stock. For RC I like pure white stock and glossy.

 

[hacked - sepiareverb]

And fine tuning contrast on graded papers isn't difficult. If the print is too flat add more stock developer, if it is too contrasty add water. And a longer development time can have more effect than you might think. These are adjustments of a 1/2 grade at best, but that can be plenty to make the difference.

 

[Monophoto]

First: If I was to want to go with graded paper, would that contrast filter number carry over, would I need to get paper that is graded at 3?

Second: What chemical and bath setup would I need for this?

If the FB paper is the same brand/emulsion as the RC, then the filter that ;you used for the RC print would be a good starting point for FB. That said, larger prints tend to want slightly higher contrast than the same print in a smaller format.

RC and FB papers use essentially the same chemical processing - developer, stop, fixer. With FB, you would need to use a rinse followed by a hypoclear (those are optional with RC) prior to washing, and washing is necessarily longer. Also, I prefer to selenium tone my FB prints - that's also optional on RC prints.