Question from a total newbie

[Anon Ymous]

Never develop for less than what is the normal, suggested time. You run the risk of uneven development. If the test strip becomes too dark, then you have grossly overexposed. You can actually extend development time without ill effect.

 

[koraks]

When the print was in the developer, went from nothing to an image within a second (like "whoooosh there it is" which I thought was odd). I wonder if I need to expose it for less time - and develop it longer?

Sounds like your print was way overexposed. Try the test strip method, you'll get there!

 

[Photo Chemist]

Never develop for less than what is the normal, suggested time. You run the risk of uneven development. If the test strip becomes too dark, then you have grossly overexposed. You can actually extend development time without ill effect.

Yes, I definitely saw some uneven development. I'll lessen the exposure time and try again. thank you!

 

[Photo Chemist]

Sounds like your print was way overexposed. Try the test strip method, you'll get there!

Alright! Thanks! Ok...I thought it was a bit odd. I will expose it for a shorter time and develop it longer. Thanks so much!

 

[MattKing]

Alright! Thanks! Ok...I thought it was a bit odd. I will expose it for a shorter time and develop it longer. Thanks so much!

Pick a development time within the range recommended by the manufacturer and stick to it - use exposure time to adjust your results.
When you have done a bunch of this, and built up some experience, we can talk about some specialized refinements .

 

[Photo Chemist]

Pick a development time within the range recommended by the manufacturer and stick to it - use exposure time to adjust your results.
When you have done a bunch of this, and built up some experience, we can talk about some specialized refinements .

I'll.be.back.

(Bwahahahahahaha.....)

Seriously, thank you for the help. And I will be back when I've played around some more.

 

[Pieter12]

Make a test strip. Sometimes more than just one. There are so many factors, from negative density to enlargement amount and f/stop, light source...don't guess.

 

[removed account4]

make sure you flip the test strip 4-5 times when you put it in the developer and leave it face UP
then rock the tray for the entire time in the developer... when you pick your "time" make sure you flip the print the
same 4 or 5 times and rock it in the developer... many people don't flip their prints a few times so the paper doesn't get fully coated/submerged
at the same time or rock the tray which leads to poor development...
sounds like you are on a roll ! ( and having fun ! )
john

 

[Photo Chemist]

make sure you flip the test strip 4-5 times when you put it in the developer and leave it face UP
then rock the tray for the entire time in the developer... when you pick your "time" make sure you flip the print the
same 4 or 5 times and rock it in the developer... many people don't flip their prints a few times so the paper doesn't get fully coated/submerged
at the same time or rock the tray which leads to poor development...
sounds like you are on a roll ! ( and having fun ! )
john

I noticed that exact thing. As a result, I moved the paper around in the tray, rocking it when I could and flipping it. The tray had a flat bottom which made the paper tricky to pick up (it stuck to the bottom). I think we'll need to get new/different ones that have ridges.

It's been a lot of fun. And I can see that I'm slipping down a rabbit hole. Very quickly!

 

[removed account4]

I noticed that exact thing. As a result, I moved the paper around in the tray, rocking it when I could and flipping it. The tray had a flat bottom which made the paper tricky to pick up (it stuck to the bottom). I think we'll need to get new/different ones that have ridges.

It's been a lot of fun. And I can see that I'm slipping down a rabbit hole. Very quickly!

you can also get nitril gloves and use your fingers instead of tongs, just make sure you rinse your fingers off
between trays... when I was mass printing for a portrait photographer back in the day I was taught to have 1 wet hand and 1 dry hand ..
and the flipping routine was KEY .. we had loud and obnoxious tray rockers ) they broke on my watch from corrosion after 60-70 years )
but were worth their weight in gold...
yeah the rabbit hole.. at least its a fun rabbit hole ! just remember NOT to be late for tea

 

[Jim Jones]

I found that comparing the area of the negative with the least desired print shadow detail against the unexposed edges of the negative gave a good basis for estimating exposure. So do exposure meters. Both require some experience, which is enhanced by keeping good records in the first months of darkroom work. If cost is important, analyze a small print first and use that to determine the correct exposure for the final print. There are charts and dials somewhere that give the conversion time when changing print size.

 

[mshchem]

Watch Darkroom Dave, Ilford Master Printer
How to make a test strip.

 

[Photo Chemist]

Watch Darkroom Dave, Ilford Master Printer
How to make a test strip.

Thank you!!! This is great! I can only dream of becoming a master printer....

 

[Pentode]

Thank you!!! This is great! I can only dream of becoming a master printer....

The only thing standing between you and becoming a master printer is hours and hours (and hours and hours) of time in the darkroom. It’s a very attainable dream. All it takes is tons of experience.

 

[M Carter]

The only thing standing between you and becoming a master printer is hours and hours (and hours and hours) of time in the darkroom. It’s a very attainable dream. All it takes is tons of experience.

...and a giant trash can!

 

[M Carter]

One note on test strips, your mileage may vary, but this has been a big help for me:

Make a little rig out of black paper with a slot-opening for the test strip; and slide paper through it. The idea is that you have your typical test strip (3,6,9,12,16 seconds for instance) but that each strip is the same slice of the negative, if you can visualize that. I much prefer this to the entire image being exposed in increments. I make my test strips based on the primary subject area of the neg, not the whole print. And I do my strips pretty big, if it's an 8x10 print, I use the whole 8x10 sheet with maybe 4 increments and dial in from there, and I try to move to the whole print after only 1 or 2 tests.

That said, 90% of my work these days is lith printing, so I just take a wild guess and maybe get 2 exposures on 1 sheet. And can't say how many of those I've torn in half in development to see how more development with less exposure works (but lith printing isn't a develop-to-completion process).

Either way, as many have said here - experience and intuition will pretty quickly get you to where your first-guess test strip is either useful as a test strip, or tells you what your test strip time range should be. Don't sweat it too much OP!