Question from a total newbie

[Photo Chemist]

How do you figure out the exposure time when using an enlarger? Is there a baseline where you start and just do 5 or 10 second increment test strips? What is a "usual" exposure? Or is it just start out somewhere and then adjust? I'm asking because I printed my first picture today (Yeah!!!!!!). It's an added bonus for my general education-alternative-process/chemistry behind photography class for the students to cycle into the chemistry darkroom (it's brand a new course, we put the finishing touches on on the room yesterday).

I used a filter (ilford #2) and ended up with a 25 sec. exposure and developed Ilford Multigrade developer (25 sec).

thanks!
Dominique

Here's the print. It was a wall graffiti on campus somewhere.

 

[Anon Ymous]

It would depend on magnification level, aperture used, lamp wattage, negative density and whatever else. When starting out, you don't know what a reasonably close value would be, but eventually you gain some experience and know what to expect. So yes, as a beginner, you start with a random value and make a progressively darker test strip.

 

[juan]

You make a test strip with 2-3 second intervals unless it’s a very dense negative or you are making a very large enlargement. Then I usually use five second intervals. When you are inexperienced, or inexperienced in using new materials, you make your best guess for a starting point.

When you get some experience and are not wildly guessing, be sure to surround the correct exposure. Meaning start the test strip underexposed and end overexposed.

 

[Ian C]

There are a variety of useful ways to find the correct exposure. After you become experienced it might be as simple as observing the projected image focused onto an upside-down scrap print (upside-down for the reflective white surface) and using your experience to “guesstimate” the initial exposure. Then you'd fine-tune the exposure with test strips or single test patches,

One nice way to save time and material is through the use of a 4” x 5” Kodak Projection Print Scale. These are no longer made, but can be found cheaply on eBay used. The condition can vary from perfect to grubby. You have to ask the seller for details before buying.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...S0&_nkw=kodak+projection+print+scale&_sacat=0

Here’s how to use it. It’s quite simple and works well.

"USING THE KODAK PROJECTION PRINT SCALE

With the KODAK Projection Print Scale, you can determine the starting exposure time for black-and-white or color enlargements, or contact prints on paper or film. See the test print on the back of this sheet.

For Enlargements:

1. Place the negative or transparency in the enlarger and focus sharply.

2. Turn off the printing light and other white lights.

3. Place the enlarging paper (of film) on the easel.

4. Lay the scale (shiny side up) on the paper over the center of interest of the image; hold it flat in contact with the paper (or film) with a sheet of glass or your hands.

5. Expose for 60 seconds* and develop it as recommended by the manufacturer.

6. Inspect the image and select the sector that appears to have the corrct density (darkness). The number on the rim of the sector is the starting exposure time in seconds.

7. Without the scale, make an exposure at this time on another sheet.

Note: Most photographic prints appear slightly darker when dry. Learn to adjust for this “dry down” when judging wet prints.

For Contact Prints or Negatives:

1. Place the scale on the contact printer glass, shiny side down.

2. Place the negative or transparency, and paper, in their usual relative positions over the scale.

3. See steps 5 and 6 and determine the correct exposure.

Although the segment may appear to have the correct density, when the entire print is made it may be slightly darker or lighter overall. This is because a small segment, out of context of the rest of the picture area, is not always an exact indicator of the correct density.

*If the exposure time is expected to be short, make the test exposure 30 seconds. The correct printing time will be half the number of the best sector. For printing black-and-white negatives from color transparencies, use a 6-second test exposure, and a printing time 1/10 the number of the best density sector.

EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY, Rochester, NY 14650
9-78-AXX"

The 10 segments correspond to exposure times in seconds as: 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 24, 32, and 48.

Here’s a new one sold under the Delta 1 Brand. It has only 8 density/time segments: 2, 3, 5, 8, 12, 16, 32, and 48 seconds.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/41621-Delta-Projection-Print-Scale

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/15711-REG/Delta_12610_Projection_Print_Calculator_Scale.html

 

[RalphLambrecht]

How do you figure out the exposure time when using an enlarger? Is there a baseline where you start and just do 5 or 10 second increment test strips? What is a "usual" exposure? Or is it just start out somewhere and then adjust? I'm asking because I printed my first picture today (Yeah!!!!!!). It's an added bonus for my general education-alternative-process/chemistry behind photography class for the students to cycle into the chemistry darkroom (it's brand a new course, we put the finishing touches on on the room yesterday).

I used a filter (ilford #2) and ended up with a 25 sec. exposure and developed Ilford Multigrade developer (25 sec).

thanks!
Dominique

Here's the print. It was a wall graffiti on campus somewhere.

View attachment 219348

start somewhere and then adjust. I try to start around16s. In your case(being new to this)start to use f/stop timing from the start. It's easier to get used to now than later

 

[tezzasmall]

I used a filter (ilford #2) and ended up with a 25 sec. exposure and developed Ilford Multigrade developer (25 sec).

thanks!
Dominique

Your print looks like a good first effort, so well done!

Some good advice already given, but I'm wondering about your development of 25 seconds. Where did you get that time from??? Usually it's in minutes, usually one or two etc depending upon developer dilution. So I'd recheck the bottle and stick with that to ensure good future prints.

All I can think is that you thought the print looked about right in the tray and took it out and into the stop and then fix? This may have worked for you this time, but if your procedure is what I've described, future prints could loose a lot of detail and contrast. As I've said, read the instructions on the developer bottle again and stick to that time. If prints then come out a little dark or light, check and change the exposure / test print until you get what you want.

All the best,

Terry S

 

[Rick Jones]

However you arrived at your final print - it worked. Looks great to me! But to answer your question - a simple system to help figure out a print exposure time is to first establish an exposure for the important highlights (ignore the shadows). Once you have nailed the highlights then and only then consider the shadows. If too light reprint with a higher contrast filter. If too dark reprint with a lower contrast filter. My test printer makes this easy because it allows me to make six exposures in the same small area, say for a white t shirt or in your case the white spray painted graffiti. Initially you might consider a standard development time at a given temperature. I routinely use 1'30" for RC and 2'30" for fiber at 68 degrees. Should help give you more repeatable results.

 

[Hatchetman]

After several intense printing sessions you'll figure it out. For my setup a "normally exposed" negative is somewhere around f5.6-f8 between 8-12 seconds.

 

[photog_ed]

When I need to home in correct exposure, I first adjust the aperture a couple of stops down from wide open, to what appears to my eye to be an appropriate brightness on the enlarging easel. Then I make a test strip that spans several stops, usually 40, 20, 10, and 5 seconds. The optimal exposure is usually somewhere within that range. I also have a Kodak Projection Print Scale, mentioned by Ian C above, that I use from time to time. It requires a different shape of paper scrap than what I use for test strips, and each wedge is very small, making it harder to judge good exposure.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I teach my photo students to do a test strip with increments of 3, 6, 9, 12. I teach them to expose for the highlights, and adjust filters for the darks/contrast. Easy peasy.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

The general rule for exposing for prints is expose for highlights. If your highights are too dark, you've overexposed your print. If there's no highlight detail, you've underexposed your print. But do a test print with multiple exposures showing something too light ranging to too dark. They key is to constantly print and you will throw out a lot of prints. That's part of the learning curve.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Test strips and experience are your friends here.

When starting from scratch with a new paper, I'll set the aperture on my lens to optimum (two stops down from wide open) and make a test strip in approximate 30% intervals starting at 7 seconds: 7, 9, 12, 15, 20, 26, 34, 44. If, like me, you start with the whole test strip uncovered and cover up stripes as you go, then you simply count seconds between moves of your card: 7, 2, 3, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10. An easy sequence to memorize. Using percentage increments is very like f-stop timing, but without the fractions, etc. I find it much more intuitive and easier in practice. If the test strip does not contain areas that are too dark and too light, then I'll make another test strip (same intervals) at a different light intensity or lens aperture. I have to do this often with new papers/light sources. After getting used to my enlarger and paper, I know what intensity I need and make only one test strip. For refinements, I often make a test strip at 25% intervals (you can figure that sequence out yourself )

Some make test strips in fixed intervals, but the problem with this is that the longer the exposure, the smaller the actual difference between stripes is. Percentages or f-stop timing will get you evenly-spaced exposures.

And, I know some say that they can just look at the projected image on the baseboard and somehow know what the proper exposure for a print should be. More power to them. I've been doing this for 30+ years and I need to look at a test strip every time.

Basing your print exposure on a highlight is really best practice. If then the overall print contrast is wrong, you change contrast and make a new test strip (or, after you gain a lot of experience, you can change contrast, guesstimate the exposure change needed and just make another print - usually a second test strip is more economical).

Best,

Doremus

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Test strips and experience are your friends here.

This is so true. I hate doing test strips and over the 30+ years of printing in the darkroom, I bought exposure meters and analyzers over the decades in an attempt not to do them. Doremus is correct.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

I look at the image on the baseboard, what I know of the enlarger and paper characteristics and go from there. If I'm unsure of something or using large sheets of paper I'll make a test strip. Most of my monochrome wet printing recently has been with my MG500 system which helps with predictability.

 

[koraks]

To get in the ballpark, a test strip with one stop increments works well for me. 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 and if you will 64 seconds. If 2 is too dark, stop down. If 64 is too light, open up. Fine tune with a second strip with e.g. 2 second increments once you've determined the ballpark with the first strip. This is what I do if I somehow feel like stumbling in the dark with a very weird negative or unpredictable paper.

 

[MattKing]

The old Kodak Projection Print Scale or the relatively current Delta version is helpful.
And koraks suggestion is good.
I use half stop increments instead - 4, 6 (rounded up from 5.6), 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 64 - a sequence you might recognize.
The first few times you do this you might end up with all the tests too dark, or all the tests too light, and if that happens just change the aperture and test again.
After a while, you will be able to more frequently come close to hitting the target with your first test - you will get used to what the various settings on your enlarger are and how bright things appear on the baseboard when things are in the ballpark. That is what happens for me in my darkroom, but when I use someone else's darkroom, I'm much more likely to need a couple of tries.
The other thing that experience will help with is learning what parts of the image yield the best information in a test strip.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

However you arrived at your final print - it worked. Looks great to me! But to answer your question - a simple system to help figure out a print exposure time is to first establish an exposure for the important highlights (ignore the shadows). Once you have nailed the highlights then and only then consider the shadows. If too light reprint with a higher contrast filter. If too dark reprint with a lower contrast filter. My test printer makes this easy because it allows me to make six exposures in the same small area, say for a white t shirt or in your case the white spray painted graffiti. Initially you might consider a standard development time at a given temperature. I routinely use 1'30" for RC and 2'30" for fiber at 68 degrees. Should help give you more repeatable results.

very sound advise!

 

[mshchem]

The old Kodak Projection Print Scale or the relatively current Delta version is helpful.
And koraks suggestion is good.
I use half stop increments instead - 4, 6 (rounded up from 5.6), 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 64 - a sequence you might recognize.
The first few times you do this you might end up with all the tests too dark, or all the tests too light, and if that happens just change the aperture and test again.
After a while, you will be able to more frequently come close to hitting the target with your first test - you will get used to what the various settings on your enlarger are and how bright things appear on the baseboard when things are in the ballpark. That is what happens for me in my darkroom, but when I use someone else's darkroom, I'm much more likely to need a couple of tries.
The other thing that experience will help with is learning what parts of the image yield the best information in a test strip.

I use Matt's and Korak's numbers I expose the entire print for four seconds cover a strip, expose 2 seconds, cover the next strip, next 2s, next 3s, next 5s, 6s,10s,32s.
This way you end up with a strip exposed for 4,6,8,11,16,22,32,64. The typical enlarging lens is sharpest stopped down 2 stops from maximum aperture. So f 4 lens optimum is f8. Rule of thumb.
I have projection print scales but I'm always in too big of a rush to do the smart, easy way
Use a timer and a thermometer for development. Prints, look so much better, and are repeatable, I use 2 minutes at 68 to 70 F. Warm tone paper 3 minutes is OK .
Don't forget to try Kodak rapid selenium toner 1:9 really adds depth and blacker blacks. I tone everything. It's subtle but beautiful.

 

[mshchem]

However you arrived at your final print - it worked. Looks great to me! But to answer your question - a simple system to help figure out a print exposure time is to first establish an exposure for the important highlights (ignore the shadows). Once you have nailed the highlights then and only then consider the shadows. If too light reprint with a higher contrast filter. If too dark reprint with a lower contrast filter. My test printer makes this easy because it allows me to make six exposures in the same small area, say for a white t shirt or in your case the white spray painted graffiti. Initially you might consider a standard development time at a given temperature. I routinely use 1'30" for RC and 2'30" for fiber at 68 degrees. Should help give you more repeatable results.

Good advise, I have precut wood strips for shading the print but I will use coins to shade certain areas. Sometimes it takes me 3 or more sessions until I get what I'm after.

 

[Photo Chemist]

Your print looks like a good first effort, so well done!

Some good advice already given, but I'm wondering about your development of 25 seconds. Where did you get that time from??? Usually it's in minutes, usually one or two etc depending upon developer dilution. So I'd recheck the bottle and stick with that to ensure good future prints.

All I can think is that you thought the print looked about right in the tray and took it out and into the stop and then fix? This may have worked for you this time, but if your procedure is what I've described, future prints could loose a lot of detail and contrast. As I've said, read the instructions on the developer bottle again and stick to that time. If prints then come out a little dark or light, check and change the exposure / test print until you get what you want.

All the best,

Terry S

I wondered about the time in the developer. I started out at 1min - I took that from the Ilford website for the developer. The print came out nearly black. I didn't mix the developer myself (a student lab worker did) and I asked the lab coordinator about the concentration - and it was confirmed that it was 1:9. I also went and checked on the container, and it's written 1:9 (and it's hand written on it as well by the lab coordinator). I had the student dilute it further (making it 10:1) - but it didn't change anything dramatically. When the print was in the developer, went from nothing to an image within a second (like "whoooosh there it is" which I thought was odd). I wonder if I need to expose it for less time - and develop it longer? I will also make a new batch and see if it was the wrong concentration.

 

[Photo Chemist]

This is so true. I hate doing test strips and over the 30+ years of printing in the darkroom, I bought exposure meters and analyzers over the decades in an attempt not to do them. Doremus is correct.

I wondered about this as well. I will bring something into the darkroom to allow for this. BTW, my cat in grad school (and until we moved to TN) was a Maine Coon. Grumpiest cat ever toward others, but loved me to bits!

 

[Photo Chemist]

It would depend on magnification level, aperture used, lamp wattage, negative density and whatever else. When starting out, you don't know what a reasonably close value would be, but eventually you gain some experience and know what to expect. So yes, as a beginner, you start with a random value and make a progressively darker test strip.

Thanks! It was quite random at the beginning.

 

[Photo Chemist]

There are a variety of useful ways to find the correct exposure. After you become experienced it might be as simple as observing the projected image focused onto an upside-down scrap print (upside-down for the reflective white surface) and using your experience to “guesstimate” the initial exposure. Then you'd fine-tune the exposure with test strips or single test patches,

One nice way to save time and material is through the use of a 4” x 5” Kodak Projection Print Scale. These are no longer made, but can be found cheaply on eBay used. The condition can vary from perfect to grubby. You have to ask the seller for details before buying.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...S0&_nkw=kodak+projection+print+scale&_sacat=0

Here’s how to use it. It’s quite simple and works well.

"USING THE KODAK PROJECTION PRINT SCALE

With the KODAK Projection Print Scale, you can determine the starting exposure time for black-and-white or color enlargements, or contact prints on paper or film. See the test print on the back of this sheet.

For Enlargements:

1. Place the negative or transparency in the enlarger and focus sharply.

2. Turn off the printing light and other white lights.

3. Place the enlarging paper (of film) on the easel.

4. Lay the scale (shiny side up) on the paper over the center of interest of the image; hold it flat in contact with the paper (or film) with a sheet of glass or your hands.

5. Expose for 60 seconds* and develop it as recommended by the manufacturer.

6. Inspect the image and select the sector that appears to have the corrct density (darkness). The number on the rim of the sector is the starting exposure time in seconds.

7. Without the scale, make an exposure at this time on another sheet.

Note: Most photographic prints appear slightly darker when dry. Learn to adjust for this “dry down” when judging wet prints.

For Contact Prints or Negatives:

1. Place the scale on the contact printer glass, shiny side down.

2. Place the negative or transparency, and paper, in their usual relative positions over the scale.

3. See steps 5 and 6 and determine the correct exposure.

Although the segment may appear to have the correct density, when the entire print is made it may be slightly darker or lighter overall. This is because a small segment, out of context of the rest of the picture area, is not always an exact indicator of the correct density.

*If the exposure time is expected to be short, make the test exposure 30 seconds. The correct printing time will be half the number of the best sector. For printing black-and-white negatives from color transparencies, use a 6-second test exposure, and a printing time 1/10 the number of the best density sector.

EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY, Rochester, NY 14650
9-78-AXX"

The 10 segments correspond to exposure times in seconds as: 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 24, 32, and 48.

Here’s a new one sold under the Delta 1 Brand. It has only 8 density/time segments: 2, 3, 5, 8, 12, 16, 32, and 48 seconds.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/41621-Delta-Projection-Print-Scale

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/15711-REG/Delta_12610_Projection_Print_Calculator_Scale.html

Thank you for all this information!! I will try this once I get the scale - I ordered it from B&H yesterday, along with some other stuff I forgot (for my home darkroom).

 

[Photo Chemist]

You make a test strip with 2-3 second intervals unless it’s a very dense negative or you are making a very large enlargement. Then I usually use five second intervals. When you are inexperienced, or inexperienced in using new materials, you make your best guess for a starting point.

When you get some experience and are not wildly guessing, be sure to surround the correct exposure. Meaning start the test strip underexposed and end overexposed.

It sounds like test strips are the way to go. And guessing at the beginning. Thank you!

 

[guangong]

One of the most useful gadgets I bought decades ago is a piece of glass with time ratios printed on edge and a needle at corner on which sits an opaque circular sheet of plastic with cutouts. Lay glass on print paper, give a spin and turn on enlarger. Sure fire way to determine exposure times and can cover a large part of print, if need be.
However, also haven’t seen one for sale since I bought mine, but maybe on eBay.....