As an aside, I also wonder why the used ones on ebay cost more than a brand new one ordered directly from the company that makes them. Thank you.
Since I wrote that (April 2024), the Intrepid has remained in its box and the Sinar has been the 8x10 I've actually been using. Yets, it's heavy and unwieldy, but it's also less frustrating than the Intrepid.I got one of the early ones; bought it second hand from a guy who upgraded to Sinar. I already had a Sinar but never used it due to it being so g*d&mn heavy.
I've been using the Intrepid for a while and it sure is light weight and fairly quick to set up. I see some improvements on the video which may (or may not) alleviate some of the issues I have with my older version:
Bellows easily creeps into the image frame. Basically, with a 300mm lens, movements are virtually out of the question; I get maybe 20mm of rise or fall and beyond that, it gets problematic. Tried all manner of
things with clamps and elastic bands, but nothing helps. I get the impression that the bellows on the one in the video is of a different type; maybe it fares better. I tried my 165/8 Super Angulon on the camera and it's a non-starter. It's literally impossible to fill the frame; the bellows are always in the way. It's not the baseplate that's the problem.
The 'rotating' back design is slightly different, too. Mine also clamps with two magnets, but in addition has two screws to secure it. This in principle is a nice touch, were it not for the fact that the screws are fidgety and never really want to align well. The back is held in place with (heavy-duty) elastic bands, which seems to work better/more conveniently than the camera I see in the video. I have no trouble sliding in and out the film holder.
I see the baseplate is a new design; mine is still plywood with nuts sunken into it, although I notice that this is still the case for the part that the front standard screws into on the new version. I doubt this will hold up to long-term use. But so far, no complaints.
I wonder if they managed to get the focus mechanism to be a little more user friendly. It's also virtually impossible to focus a somewhat heavy lens (I mostly use a 300/5.6 Symmar S) downward; the whole contraption is just too shaky and unstable for that. Which brings me to...
...the front stand, which is just plain annoying to work with with the kind of (heavy) lens you typically need for 8x10. It's a flimsy, rickety design and securing the lens so it doesn't tilt inadvertently involves screwing the front stand so tightly that I fear it'll wear out the ironware prematurely.
Being as lightweight as it is, it's a rather effective wind vane.
The ground glass is meh. Also, I don't think a fresnel is available for it, although one could be fashioned to fit. I've not yet gotten round to this, yet.
However....since it's relatively light weight, I have actually used it, which I could not (or barely) say about my Norma. Also, it's an 8x10" camera that's available new and at a very attractive price.
Having said that, I've recently unpacked the Norma due to the issues listed above which make the Intrepid less than optimal to work with.
Having owned a Horseman 8x10 (the one with the L brakets) for a number of years, it has proven to be such a heavy beast that taking it into the field at this point in life is rather prohibitive. Even though I've done a conversion that eliminates the rear L bracket, it's still heavy and awkward . Looking around the internet, another camera called the Intrepid 8x10 caught my attention . Note that I am an X-ray film user. I'd like to ask opinions on this Intrepid 8x10 camera. As an aside, I also wonder why the used ones on ebay cost more than a brand new one ordered directly from the company that makes them. Thank you.
I have never had anything break or fall off the camera
Oh, and I wouldn't plan on hanging heavy plasmats on the front standard.
Thank you for these answers, although the droopy bellows don't sound hopeful. This is my Horseman, which allows me 1 1/2 inches of front rise or fall (3in. total). The lens I would be using for the Intrepid would be this old Bausch & Lomb 12 inch Tessar, which is all the lens I ever intend to buy. The light yellow-green filter that stays taped to it provides some measure of "correction" for the Fuji HRT green X-ray film I use.As to eBay prices: I expect those prices reflect that fact that if you buy from the eBay seller, you’ll have the camera in days, as opposed to the six weeks (plus shipping time) it’s going to take for Intrepid to produce one. So sellers can ask a premium for that opportunity, used or not.
There is a long-running thread discussing this topic elsewhere on the forum and on the Large Format forum. This camera comes up in discussions often, and the summaries are much the same.
The 8x10 Intrepid is an inexpensive camera whose main features are its price, and light weight. Most everything else is a compromise, notably the materials and build quality. That said, I have never had anything break or fall off the camera and have not found it especially “fiddly” to work with. But if you’re expecting it to compare favorably to a Horseman or a Chamonix or something costing 5x or more, you will be disappointed. The Intrepid is a “get the job done” camera, not a work of engineering perfection.
Many Intrepid users value it most for its light weight.
1 1/2 inches of front rise or fall (3in. total)
My most oft-used lens on the Intrepid is my Turner-Reich Gundlach 8x10 lens (about 300mm) in the Betax shutter. It's neither the lightest lens I've used on this camera, nor is it the heaviest. (I just weight it: it's 1050 grams/2.5 pounds. The 240mm Symmar-S is only slightly heavier - not as heavy as I thought) I expect your Tessar in the Betax weighs about the same.Thank you for these answers, although the droopy bellows don't sound hopeful. This is my Horseman, which allows me 1 1/2 inches of front rise or fall (3in. total). The lens I would be using for the Intrepid would be this old Bausch & Lomb 12 inch Tessar, which is all the lens I ever intend to buy.
I realized it's not on this forum, it's over at the LFPF. See: https://www.largeformatphotography....epid-8x10-Mk-III-Post-your-thoughts-on-designIs it possible to post a link to the exact discussion quoted above, so I can avoid wasting time searching and ending up reading a long, less informative thread?
I think that if you approach the camera with that attitude, you will find it usable. For those who are acquainted with more precision cameras with far better build quality, the Intrepid is definitely going to be disappointing to use and create frustration. Because I'm not expecting it to be anything more than it is, I get along with it just fine.As for the Intrepid being less of an instrument of impeccable machining and fine fit, I'm sure I can manage. I drive a 1956 Studebaker with 3 on the tree and no power anything. Gets the job done just fine.
I resolved it by attaching a folded piece of duct tape to a middle pleat of the bellow, used a hole punch to make a hole it it and then ran a thin dowel through it which contacted the back standard at one end and rested on the front standard at the other
Smart; I like that. Thanks for sharing this hack; I'll probably do something along these lines next time I dig up the Intrepid. I've also got a fresnel sheet lying around somewhere I'd like to put on it.
The bellows material on my 5x7 Intrepid and the newer 8x10 Intrepid is a rubber/plastic material that is impervious to water. I've gotten mine wet on many occasions and it has zero effect.+1 I don't use my 8x10 v1 all that much, but I'm definitely going to remember this bellows tip! Not that anyone will be buying a v1 model, but another thing with the bellows is you don't want to get it wet! That will pretty much ruin it.
The bellows material on my 5x7 Intrepid and the newer 8x10 Intrepid is a rubber/plastic material that is impervious to water. I've gotten mine wet on many occasions and it has zero effect.
I watched that video. Not too bad, I guess, for what it is. Kind of rickety when inserting a film holder. But I suspect half of that situation is the tripod and tripod head. I will be using my Salamander surveyors tripod. It has no head. Just a big solid base. With no head, camera aiming is done by shortening or lengthening tripod legs. It's kind of heavy, but not unmanageable for short jaunts into the field from the car. At my age I'm not going to be doing any mountain hiking and the like. But a couple hundred yards from the truck will be entirely manageable. My Horseman lets you go about 40 feet, before you set it down and go back for the tripod and bag.
Seeing the video, I was dismayed that the spring back has only the top 2 holding clamps; none on the bottom.
I have no firsthand experience with the 8x10. Perhaps it is extremely different from the 4x5.
There's a funny thing with large format photography. As you go up in size, problems don't add up. They multiply. Exponentially.
Kind of rickety when inserting a film holder.
As you go up in size, problems don't add up. They multiply. Exponentially.
If you are an experienced 8x10 user, then I think you'd like something like Shen-Hao or Chamonix better than the interpid. I got my Shen-Hao 8x10 about 15 years ago when they first came out and have never thought about replacing it with anything else.
I do have had my eye on a Horseman 8x10 monorail. Mostly because I keep the Shen-Hao stashed in its backpack and don't like unpacking the backpack and all to use it in a studio setting. I'd like the Horseman to be able to be set up all the time.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?