Question about the red film windows on the back of a Moskva 5

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John51

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^ Thanks , and although I only have one left , I can't help but think of them somewhat fondly ( not every ones experience ) .
Nice big easily printed image in B&W , if you get one in good condition it's certainly the cheapest way to get that size of
negative acreage . Peter

If you can tolerate the hassle of respooling to 620, Kodak made some good 6x9 cameras. They go for pennies on the dollar compared to what a 120 camera of similar IQ would fetch. It's a cheap entry into mf and if you can load a reel in the dark, you can learn to respool.
 
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Huss

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Yes, I remove the gaffer's tape when I need to advance the film. I try to stand in the shade when I advance film. However, many times I am shooting under low-light conditions and need to use a flash light to illuminate the red window so I can see the number.

Thanks! That happened to me today, I loaded another roll and was in too dimly a lit room.. so I accidentally wound it past ‘1’ . This roll of film will start on the 2nd exposure!
 

Les Berkley

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I have a Mockba-5 I just got from a guy in Ukraine. As advertised, everything worked well and I like the camera. It's better on a tripod than hand-held, but the lens seems pretty good. Have not had problems with the red window, except that with Kodak film, it seems REALLY hard to see the damn numbers.
 
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Huss

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I have a Mockba-5 I just got from a guy in Ukraine. As advertised, everything worked well and I like the camera. It's better on a tripod than hand-held, but the lens seems pretty good. Have not had problems with the red window, except that with Kodak film, it seems REALLY hard to see the damn numbers.

Why is it better on a tripod vs other mf cameras that are fine hand held? Is it prone to
camera shake/shutter vibration?
 
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Huss

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My camera has proven to be light tight,including through the red windows. The first roll was scratched the entire length by the 6x6 frame mask (but thankfully just under the film border so it could be cropped out w/ minimal loss to the image). I realized this before I got the film developed as there was a tiny continuous shaving of film inside the camera when I opened it to remove the exposed film! I saw the offending edge on the film mask, pushed it down and the subsequent roll was fine.
About half my images are not as sharp as I would like, and I think it is due to my (lack) of technique introducing camera shake. I'm just not used to holding this thing yet and firing the shutter with my left hand! Hopefully I can improve on this w/o resorting to a tripod as I want this as a compact travel camera.
Shutter timing and aperture settings seem good as there was no issue with exposures.
 

Dan Daniel

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If you look on the shutter, bottom right area is the actual shutter release- dog leg silver metal. It is pushed by a black tab. This is where the final action happens when you use the shutter release on the top of the body. You'll notice that the front of the black tab has some ridges in it. Yep, a secondary shutter release. Watch your knuckle sticking out too far, but try it a few times. If nothing else, learn where this is in case you have a situation where the body shutter release activates the wind release and shutter lock without actually firing the shutter.

I find the left-handed shutter release on the old folder bodies to be very hard to use. Moskva, Voigtlander, Zeiss- all seem clunky and prone to motion. Try the front release instead- the release action is much smoother and more certain.
 

JPD

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I use black PVC tape with a little piece of black paper over the red window. The paper is so that the tape will not leave adhesive residue on the red window. Some red windows are made of a material that dissolves in alcohol, so it would be difficult to remove tape residue. I don't own a Moskva, but many other cameras that have red windows, like the Voigtländer E-Bessa and a Goerz Roll-Tenax.
 
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Huss

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If you look on the shutter, bottom right area is the actual shutter release- dog leg silver metal. It is pushed by a black tab. This is where the final action happens when you use the shutter release on the top of the body. You'll notice that the front of the black tab has some ridges in it. Yep, a secondary shutter release. Watch your knuckle sticking out too far, but try it a few times. If nothing else, learn where this is in case you have a situation where the body shutter release activates the wind release and shutter lock without actually firing the shutter.

I find the left-handed shutter release on the old folder bodies to be very hard to use. Moskva, Voigtlander, Zeiss- all seem clunky and prone to motion. Try the front release instead- the release action is much smoother and more certain.

Thanks for the info Dan I will definitely check this out.
 

Sewin

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If you can tolerate the hassle of respooling to 620, Kodak made some good 6x9 cameras. They go for pennies on the dollar compared to what a 120 camera of similar IQ would fetch. It's a cheap entry into mf and if you can load a reel in the dark, you can learn to respool.

Good point, the 620's are a lot cheaper. On some you can use 120 film without re spooling.
Trimming the end of the 120 spool with nail clippers works for some cameras allowing the spool to fit without the hassle of respooling.
.
Youtube is your friend. :smile:
 

John51

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I tried clipping a roll of 120 for my Kodak Reflex II TLR. It jammed after the 2nd shot. :sad: Ah well, worth a try.

The 620 cameras that take 120 on the supply side are pretty basic. eg. the Brownie Hawkeye. I got a Kodak Folding Brownie Six-20 (older version) as part of a job lot. It has an insert on the supply side that can be removed (and replaced) easily. With it removed, it takes 120. You can see the insert in one of the pics of this listing, it springs out with a little persuasion.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kodak-Fo...m21593a7095:g:nX8AAOSwb-JcuHs4&frcectupt=true

Such cameras are worth having to aid respooling. Halves the hassle.
 

Les Berkley

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Why is it better on a tripod vs other mf cameras that are fine hand held? Is it prone to
camera shake/shutter vibration?
The shutter has a lot of "oomph" especially at the 1/250 setting, where you engage an extra spring, OTOH, with a TLR, I am amazed how long an exposure can be handheld.
 
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Huss

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My technique is getting better but I am still getting a few shots per roll with camera shake hand held, even though shooting at 1/250. But I love using this camera so I will just have to improve!
 
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Huss

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Here's a weird thing, when I loaded the last two rolls in my Mockba 5, I missed the "1' and so started the roll on '2', meaning I got 11 shots only. And I thought I was paying attention! Just loaded my Nettar 517/2, and had no problem starting on '1' (but it was kinda hard to see).

Mockba 5, Kodak TMY 400


 

KN4SMF

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When I firsty saw this thread, I did a search on Moskva, having never heard of it. Seemed interesting enough to investigate further. I've got my eye on a Moskva 4 that I can grab at an admirable price. In return I am selling my Kodak Medalist II to finance it, which has proven to be a disappointment. I believe the person who designed the shutter escapement of a Supermatic shutter was the same culprit who designed the Sherman tank. And history told the tale of that iron coffin. As the tstory unfolds, the Soviets got the side of Germany with the good cameras, and took the factory works back to their land and started producing cameras by people with their bellies full of vodka. Somehow I'm getting the idea that I'd rather have a camera with a German shutter produced by drunk Russians than a Kodak Supermatic shutter, which is the most cheesy looking piece of engineering I ever saw. Well that's my rant on my Kodak Medalist II. It CAN'T be fixed. There's nothing to fix. It's just plain CHEAP, and totally worn out. So if anybody has opinions on the Mockba 4, I'm all ears. I don't like the 5 because the viewfinder is way off in the corner and parallax on close family shots would be terrible.
 

Theo Sulphate

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Impressive photos you've made with that camera.
 

cooltouch

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I bought a Moskva 5 recently, but I've only had the opportunity to put a couple of rolls through it -- Tri-X that I developed in Kodak D-76. My camera is fairly worn, but still serviceable. One thing I noticed about it was when I open the bellows, the front standard does not always snap into place. I have to physically shove the right bracket forward until it locks into place. With my first roll, I failed to do this, and the images were soft on a right corner. Once I learned of this "feature," the images were sharp across the frame. I mention this because a few members above mention some softness on the sides of their images, and I can't help but think that their Moskva-5s have the same problem mine does.

As for the two red holes, mine are light tight. When I first got the camera, the metal slides were stiff, but a bit of light lubrication and just pushing them open and closed took care of the stiffness. When I was shooting with the camera, it was during the depths of winter and the days were overcast and somewhat dark, so there wasn't any problem the film suffered from leaving the sliding shutters open. I don't recall if I closed them after advancing to the next frame, or left them open. In the future, however, I think I'll be more conservative and keep them closed between exposures.

I've uploaded a couple of images to show what I mean by corner softness. In the first one below, a photo of a frozen bird bath, the top right corner is soft whereas the rest of the photo is in focus. In the second photo of the trunk of an old oak tree, there is little evidence of corner softness. I had learned to ensure the frame rails were locked in place by the time I took that photo.
moskva_5_bird_bath_1a.jpg


moskva_5_oak_tree_1a.jpg
 

KN4SMF

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Thanks to the OP who started this thread and making me aware of a good alternative to my Medalist II which turned out to be a bitter disappointment, I just bought a Mockba 4 in very promising condition. We'll see. But since I flipped an incorrectly operating first-world camera and made enough money to buy the Soviet camera and keep some change to boot, I'm having a hard time seeing where I could have gone wrong.So what that Soviet workers were broken spirited, Vodka-swilling laborers, as the narrative goes? Certainly there's people everywhere who take pride in the things they make. I have an idea I might end up very happy with my choice.
 
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