Question about selenium toning, please help

[naaldvoerder]

I am tying to remove some of the olive-green colour on some FortePolywarmtone prints develoed in warmtone developer, with a selenium bath.
Can anyone tell me what influence the dilution of the seleniumtoner would have, eg 1:20 for, lets say, 5 min versus 1:40 for 10 minutes?

I hpoe you understand the question and shed some light on it...


Jaap Jan

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

There is not a 1:1 correlation between concentration and time with selenium or other toners. 1:20 for 5 minutes will not produce the same result as 1:40 for 10 minutes. You will need to experiment to see what produces the best result to your taste.

 

[Peter Schrager]

Seleniun

Forte will tone beautifully in selenium. Use 1.5 ounces to a gallon of water and keep the temp around 70 degrees F. Usually something around 1:45 minutes or
2 will produce the results you want. Watch the temp closely as it also relates to the toning process. Too much of a good thing aint good....
Best, Peter

 

[Hans Borjes]

I have been selenium toning slides developed in the Kodak TMAX reversal kit, and I have found that selenium toner works much stronger when applied to film (most likely paper as well) at the end of the normal process.

When you dry film first and pre-rinse it in water for two minutes before toning, the toning effect will be much less.

That should be considered when a series of films/prints are supposed to have the same toning intensity.

 

[Gerald Koch]

Olive green tones are caused by too much bromide in the working developer. I would suggest trying other developers with the Forte paper.

 

[naaldvoerder]

Olive green tones are caused by too much bromide in the working developer. I would suggest trying other developers with the Forte paper.

Do you know wich ones should be good?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

the new Ilford Warmtone developer is very nice. It does not produce any olive tone on Bergger VCCB warmtone paper (which I believe is made in the Forte factory). It is also quite economical.

 

[SuzanneR]

I recently tried Edwal Platinum II developer on J&C PWT... think it's pretty much the same paper. The olive green cast was somwhat less than with LPD. I quite liked the combination. I was also quite happy with this paper and PF BW65. I just keep running out of it!. I have a bottle of the Ilford wamtone... next on mylist!!

At any rate... I think this paper just needs some sel toning no matter what developer you use! so play around with it, til you find what you like!... it's beautiful paper.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Suzanne- take a look at my paper test ringaround I did...
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
These prints were all on Bergger, but it shows the tonal difference with the Ilford Warmtone, Cooltone, Ansco 130, and split warmtone/cooltone developer. No greenish tint anywhere in sight. and no selenium toning either.

 

[Gerald Koch]

Do you know wich ones should be good?

I seldom use warm tone papers or developers, sorry.

 

[dancqu]

Do you know wich ones should be good?

Developers that is. By the time you've tried
a few and have jugs or partly filled bottles
growing old you may begin wondering if
there is not another way.

I was in a similar stew a few years ago so took
up Home-Brew. Compounding a fractional batch
of this and that developer is easy, interesting,
and fun to see how it works.

BTW, I've found that some papers do not
need a bromided developer. Dan