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Question About 35mm Film Leader

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I shoot as close to the ends of the roll as I can with the understanding that I may lose the very end shots. Therefore, I make sure I don't shoot anything important close to the ends. You could use the first frame to try something different that probably won't work, but hey, maybe it turns out interesting!
 
I shoot as close to the ends of the roll as I can with the understanding that I may lose the very end shots. Therefore, I make sure I don't shoot anything important close to the ends. You could use the first frame to try something different that probably won't work, but hey, maybe it turns out interesting!
Film is the cheapest thing in photography, I never shoot more than thirty three exposures in a 35mm film, If you've ever pulled the film out of the cassette in the middle of an important shoot when you don't have a changing bag with you you will understand why.
 
When loading, I wind my F3 until the counter is on one, but theoretically, you could start at zero. I have the back that leaves the leader out for mine, but I've never tried to figue out if it winds frame zero into the cassette fully, or not, since I don't start shooting at zero anyway.
You can aways wind the leader in manually after the motor stops, just keep the release pushed over on the back of the motor and give the rewind knob a few turns.
 
Film is the cheapest thing in photography, I never shoot more than thirty three exposures in a 35mm film, If you've ever pulled the film out of the cassette in the middle of an important shoot when you don't have a changing bag with you you will understand why.

I agree,its a false economy trying to milk a couple extra shots.Saving those pennies can cost you a shot thats worth a thousand words or dollars.
 
I load the leader, wind it until the upper part of the perforation engages the sprocket, tense slightly the film in the cartridge, close the back, wind the film until the frame counter indicates "1". That will typically give me 38 frames on a Fuji slide 135 cartridge, and no problems. That's with Minolta SrT, Minolta X-700, Minolta XM. "1" with this procedure means 38 good images.

38 and 35 doesn't make a difference just in cost, it makes also a difference in occasions. You have 8% probabilities less to miss a good picture because the roll ended at the worse moment. I remember at least one occasion when I had to change the roll, I took 1 minute or so (never been a lighting in changing rolls) and the light had changed. Changing film in the midst of the "action" can sometimes be very frustrating.

My Yashica T3 has a very nice auto-load feature. I just need to place the leader on the red sign, and close the back. That gives me 38 good images, with Fuji slide films which I use. 38 is pretty normal here, no risks.

Fabrizio
 
Smaller cameras that more more compact will easily give you more shots. My Olympus RC and Canon Demi S allow very little leader to be pulled out before film is engaged in camera.

I actually hate cameras that stop at 36, like many of the more automated ones and force you to rewind.

More film in camera, equals less time its in your hand reloading, more time to capture shots. There have been a number of iconic images captured right at the end of the roll, (I just cant think of them now lol but there are) that would have been missed if they didnt shoot to 37-38.
 
Shots available also depend on film manufacturer. Tudor film in the UK will give 3 to 4 more shots than declared. My last 24 exposure film gave me 27 pictures.
 
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