Ken:
Did you mix part A and B just before developing? I mix mine while I am pre-soaking the film. What ration are you using? For Tmax 4x5, I think I used 1:1:100 at 72 for 16 minutes? Hard to recall a few years ago.
Also, the pyro stain sometimes looks like crap, but prints beautifully. Give it a shot.
I've been using Pyrocat HD for a few years.... it has provided 'beutiful' negatives or both silver and non-silver prints.
My Pyrocat HD, (both A and B) from 'scratch' was mixed up about two days ago and made up using a pipette into the 200 ml of water in a 500 measuring cylinder and then 'topped up to the 500 ml 'mark', stirred and poured into the container and inverted a number of times to ensure 'mixing'. The caps of my BTZS tubes were filled, the tubes loaded from a pre-soak tray. inverted and screwed into the caps. the tubes got their usual shaking and dropped into a larger 'tub' of water at temperature and given their usual 'alternating spin' where I usually move the last tube to the othere end meaning they get 'spun' in both directions during the development period. At the 'end' of the developing cycle I stand the tubes to allow the developer to 'drain' down into the tub caps... remove the tubes and immerse them (completely) in a water tray and 'jiggle' them... remove the film and place in a tray of fixer for the duration.
What is somewhat disturbing is the 'flatness' of the image on the Tmax negatives... and the complete lack of the 'stain' that I have come to accept as 'normal' since I started using Sandy's Pyrocat HD formulation.
There is absolutely no evidence of 'fogging' and the film's edge 'rebate' is nice and clear.
I am still scratching my scalp trying to figure out why the faeries stole my stain... I've really been a 'good boy' for quite some time now..... (but then... She Who Must Be Obeyed might argue a bit on that one....

).
Ken