• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Pyrocat-HD dev times

Emi on Fomapan 400

A
Emi on Fomapan 400

  • 5
  • 2
  • 61
Venice

A
Venice

  • 3
  • 0
  • 73

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
201,796
Messages
2,830,343
Members
100,957
Latest member
Tante Greet
Recent bookmarks
0

ParkerSmithPhoto

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
1,685
Location
Atlanta, GA
Format
Medium Format
Can anyone suggest some Pyrocat-HD dev times for TMY400, FP4 and HP5? 120 film on stainless reels.

I've done some experiments with Two-Bath Pyrocat-HD and, while I liked to results for the Ilford films, the TMY was woefully thin. Plus, it's a bit expensive compared to my normal Barry T's 2 Bath, as I do a lot of development where I'm running 2-4 rolls rather than waiting and running 20+ rolls at a time, which would make it more economical.

So, I still have a few hundred mL of the glycol PHD sitting on the shelf and I'd like to give it a bit more attention with the three films mentioned above but with a standard 1:1:100 dilution.

If you reply, please include your EI, temperatures and preferred agitation scheme. Thanks!
 
OP
OP
ParkerSmithPhoto

ParkerSmithPhoto

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
1,685
Location
Atlanta, GA
Format
Medium Format

Jim Noel

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Mar 6, 2005
Messages
2,261
Format
Large Format
Those are good starting times for stainless steel reels.
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Messages
451
Location
Toronto
Format
Medium Format
For what it's worth, I develop hp5 on stainless reels in Pyrocat 1:1:100 at 68F for 18 min, agitating for the first minute, then 10s every 3min. I give a 3min pre soak.

I generally shoot in contrasty light, and prefer contrasty negatives. My prints are on Ilford Warmtone, usually around grade 1 or 2

Forgot to add ei. 250 is what I use for side lit, contrasty early morning sunlight.
 
Last edited:

Ian Grant

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Messages
23,409
Location
West Midland
Format
Multi Format
For what it's worth, I develop hp5 on stainless reels in Pyrocat 1:1:100 at 68F for 18 min, agitating for the first minute, then 10s every 3min. I give a 3min pre soak.

I generally shoot in contrasty light, and prefer contrasty negatives. My prints are on Ilford Warmtone, usually around grade 1 or 2

Similar times here between 15-18 mins 1+1 to 100 @ 20º in Paterson or Jobo inversion tanks 35mm to 5x4 for all films. I agitate for the first 30 seconds then 2 inversions every minute, I print on Forte Polywarmtone or Ilford WT approx Gd2. Never pre-soak.

Ian
 

Chris Livsey

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
635
Format
Medium Format
A consensus emerges, maybe not for long.
I am on 15-17mins 70F Paterson reels 5 reel tank, 1:1:100.
Pre-soak, usually, forgot a couple of runs back and saw no visible difference at all as I expected but pre-soak gives me mixing time.
I call mine semi-stand, continuous gentle for 1st min then three turns at 4,8,12 mins for 15mins, so yes first turns are at 3mins after initial agitation.
Recent work on Flickr is on that regime various emulsions including some 120 which gets the same.
 

palewin

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
146
Location
New Jersey
Format
4x5 Format
The times mentioned for HP5+ seem long to me. I develop 120 on Paterson reels, and 4x5 in trays for 12 minutes at 70F, 1:1:100. This seems consistent with the Pyrocat instructions which suggest 10 minutes for rotary processing, with a 15% increase for trays or tanks (which would be 11:30). I pre-soak for up to 5 minutes. I used to pre-soak for 2 minutes, but a recent thread, with input from Sandy King, suggested that a longer pre-soak increased the staining effect. This was a recent thread, so I'm still experimenting with that timing. My agitation in tanks is 15sec continuous, then 2 inversions every 30 seconds. In trays I use continuous shuffle, going through the stack in about 15 sec for the first 6 minutes, and then slowing down to going through the stack in 30 sec for the second 6 minutes. Printing is via cold light on Ilford Classic VC FB, usually around a grade 2 setting.
 
OP
OP
ParkerSmithPhoto

ParkerSmithPhoto

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
1,685
Location
Atlanta, GA
Format
Medium Format
I found some TMY I did last year 5 mL A + 5 mL B + 400 mL water, 25C for twelve minutes. It was a bit flat. The negs look great, though. I am obviously not a good judge of Pyro negs.
 

Chris Livsey

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
635
Format
Medium Format
The times mentioned for HP5+ seem long to me.

I will run some at 12min but my usual is 15min, if I extend to 17min the difference is not night and day, I am densitometer free at the moment, I would say on time and temperature the HD is pretty flexible and shows gentle changes, certainly in my experience a minute here or there isn'y going to be make or break and we do have personal preferences as to what is a good negative to us.
This on 35mm HP5+ 70f 15mins agitated as above and a centring crop. And yes it's a scan so another set of preferences and variables as are papers and one frame proves nothing but every thread deserves at least one image


32758252842_5f4c5bb805_c.jpg


On 120 I do prefer a developer that will show of the tone transitions available more effectively, again HP5+, expired stock, with Harvey's 777, so hard to get in the UK.

15856140116_63a807e575_c.jpg
 
Last edited:

TheFlyingCamera

Membership Council
Advertiser
Allowing Ads
Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
11,599
Location
Washington DC
Format
Multi Format
FP4+, Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 - 11 mins @ 75, continuous agitation on my Jobo. But I'm developing for Pt/Pd printing. When I enlarge, these work just fine, but my base grade is a 1 or a 1/2 not grade 2. If you want to adapt my regime to grade 2, run the film at 11 mins at 68F, not continuous agitation. I'm using 75 as my base temp because that's the coldest I can get out of my tap in the summer time. Dead Link Removed
 
OP
OP
ParkerSmithPhoto

ParkerSmithPhoto

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
1,685
Location
Atlanta, GA
Format
Medium Format
I'm using 75 as my base temp because that's the coldest I can get out of my tap in the summer time.
I standardized on 25C a few years ago for the same reason. Much easier to heat it up in winter than cool it down in the summer. Nice photo.
 
OP
OP
ParkerSmithPhoto

ParkerSmithPhoto

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
1,685
Location
Atlanta, GA
Format
Medium Format
If you are set up to run the test, it doesn't take long and you have your own data to work from.

I know, I've actually tested several films in the past and have the whole procedure written down, so I could set it up and be testing in a matter of minutes. I guess I'm just being lazy, which will surely cost me more time and energy in the long run!
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2003
Messages
15,715
Location
Switzerland
Format
Multi Format
When I used TMY-2 and TMY with Pyrocat-HD and Pyrocat-MC, my developing times were usually 13 minutes at 70 degrees F, 1+1+100 mix, agitating first 30 seconds and then 10s every three minutes.
I'd expose the film at EI 250 which helped with film density. They printed well on Grade 2 and Grade 3 graded paper.

Today I'd probably go a little bit longer, about 15 minutes or so, agitating every 30s, because I've come to like higher contrast negatives.

FP4+ was exposed at EI 80, and processed 16 minutes at 70 degrees F, 1+1+150 mix, same agitation as above. Those were my favorite Pyrocat negatives. Really high print quality.
 
Last edited:
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom