Pushing Portra 800 to 1600

[Darryl Roberts]

Hi,

Have you pushed Kodak Portra 800 to 1600? If so, what were the results/pitfalls?

Thank you

 

[Lachlan Young]

It works fine - if you understand what that underexposure will do to your shadows & the extended processing to your straight line. The curves are more resistant to crossover than some other films, hence why it can take a push with fewer issues.

What outcome are you looking for?

 

[Darryl Roberts]

Shoo

It works fine - if you understand what that underexposure will do to your shadows & the extended processing to your straight line. The curves are more resistant to crossover than some other films, hence why it can take a push with fewer issues.

What outcome are you looking for?

Shooting a lady inside of a supermarket, no flash, no tripod.

 

[Sirius Glass]

1600 is well within the range of latitude of Portra 800, so there is no need to push it. Just shoot it at 1600 and develop normally.

 

[Lachlan Young]

Shoo


Shooting a lady inside of a supermarket, no flash, no tripod.

Is the ambient lighting fluorescent, metal halide, tungsten, LED, a mix of the above, or something else? Portra 800 is pretty good at handling mixed lighting sources, but you might find that balancing for skin tones throws everything else somewhere you aren't expecting.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

Is the ambient lighting fluorescent, metal halide, tungsten, LED, a mix of the above, or something else? Portra 800 is pretty good at handling mixed lighting sources, but you might find that balancing for skin tones throws everything else somewhere you aren't expecting.

Likely a mix. I've already metered it and to get 5.6 or above I need 1600.

 

[MattKing]

Moved from the Instant Film sub-forum to the Color: Film, Paper and Chemistry sub-forum.
Try to position your subject so the lighting is even, and it won't be too damaging to your image if some of the shadows aren't that detailed.
Then meter and expose the film at EI of 1600, and develop it normally.
Watch out for mixed light sources that lead to facial highlights in one light, and facial shadows in another.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

Moved from the Instant Film sub-forum to the Color: Film, Paper and Chemistry sub-forum.
Try to position your subject so the lighting is even, and it won't be too damaging to your image if some of the shadows aren't that detailed.
Then meter and expose the film at EI of 1600, and develop it normally.
Watch out for mixed light sources that lead to facial highlights in one light, and facial shadows in another.

Thank you for the great advice.

 

[MattKing]

Here is an example (of slide film) with a plethora of mixed light sources. It works because the critical part of the image - the face - is relatively evenly lit. Note that the shadows under the chin don't show signs of any colour cast, indicating they are illuminated with the same sort of light as the face.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

Here is an example (of slide film) with a plethora of mixed light sources. It works because the critical part of the image - the face - is relatively evenly lit. Note that the shadows under the chin don't show signs of any colour cast, indicating they are illuminated with the same sort of light as the face.View attachment 307045

Very nice. Thank you.

 

[halfaman]

I pushed regularly Portra 800 to 1600 years ago (when it was way cheaper than today), I mean exposed to 1600 and overdeveloped (+30 seconds). Worked very nicely for interiors and street night photography where I used color correction filters that "steal" around 1.5 stops of light, but be aware that it could be very, very contrasty in daylight.

 

[Paul Howell]

In you have access to a color meter you can meter your subject and then use color correction filters to balance for skin tones. Or scan and fix in LR or PS.

 

[Nicklop]

I've pushed 500T 3 stops, looked fine. So I bet 1 stop with Portra works good.