Pushing Film...Need a little help

[clineco]

I'm sure there are many techniques that can be done when it comes to pushing film. With that said, I'm hoping somebody can give me very basic instruction. Here's what I'm doing:

Shooting 400 Tri-X
Setting ISO on camera to 400
Camera meters f/4 @ 1/30th

I would like to push the film 2 stops so I don’t need to shoot at such a slow shutter speed.

So do I set the ISO on the camera to 1600 and push 2 stops in development or do I leave the camera’s ISO at 400 and push two stops in development?

Any help would be appreciated.

(I tried a search, but it the results were overwhelming) Thanks!

 

[bdial]

You would set the camera to 1600 and do your push development.
Note that pushing doesn't truly get you ISO 1600 film. Pushing affects mostly mid tones and highlights.
Shadows may not get enough light to record anything. Some Delta 3200 may be a good alternative, if you need a film that really is ISO 1600.

 

[clineco]

Ok, cool that is what I was thinking...I really appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

[Mike Crawford]

Set the ISO to 1600 and push the film 2 stops in development. The shutter speed will then be two stops faster, otherwise 1/125th. However, the film will effectively be underexposed by two stops and the increased development will hopefully compensate though it's not a magic bullet. If it's an underexposed scene with a high level of contrast, it may end up being a still underexposed scene but with far more contrast!

 

[clineco]

Thanks Mike. I'll have to do some experimenting.

 

[RattyMouse]

You would set the camera to 1600 and do your push development.
Note that pushing doesn't truly get you ISO 1600 film. Pushing affects mostly mid tones and highlights.
Shadows may not get enough light to record anything. Some Delta 3200 may be a good alternative, if you need a film that really is ISO 1600.

Delta 3200 is an ISO1000 film, not 1600.

 

[gone]

You're already shooting w/ one stop if you're shooting Tri-X at box speed. It generally works best at 200-250 ISO. I would set my meter to 800 and give it one stop push w/ the development, although seriously, w/ Tri-X, you could probably develop it normally, at least w/ D76 or it's clones. Some of this will depend on what you are using for a developer.

 

[Xmas]

Buy a tripod or a faster lens.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Here's what Kodak says about pushing Tri-X, read "Push Processing" on page 6.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf

Push processing is never a good idea unless there just is no other way to get the image. Your options are a tripod or other source of camera stabilization such as a bean bag. Use of a speed increasing developer. Unless you are photographing a moving subject use a slower shutter speed. Use additional lighting or flash.

BTW, you should be able to hold a camera steady at 1/30 s. Tuck your elbows in, take a deep breath, exhale and hold your breath, and shoot. This is something a good photographer needs to learn. There was a time when an ISO of 64 WAS a fast film. There are many famous photographs from this period.

 

[Neal]

Enough bashing of push processing. It's a legitimate tool that works very well in many situations. There are many occasions when the entire scene is less than 5 stops wide and many more when the subject can easily be encompassed by the reduced range allowing one to forget about unnecessary details. It is very often the best way to get the photo you want.

Neal Wydra

 

[jim appleyard]

Lots of good points here. There is truth in buying a tripod or faster lens, but maybe that doesn't work for you right now.

Delta 3200 is also another way to go. I get EI 1600 in Diafine.

Tri-X in Diafine will get you EI 800-1250. It is a very easy way to dev your film. Being a two-bath developer, it helps control the contrast and the end result doesn't look as pushed as other developers.

Acufine can be another answer. I've gotten EI 6400 on TX with it, but I wasn't as happy with the results as I am with Diafine.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Enough bashing of push processing.

Unfortunately it is the first and often the only solution that people resort to in low light situations. There are several others that may produce better results. The fact is that you pay the price of loss of shadow detail which can never be restored.

 

[ic-racer]

I'm sure there are many techniques that can be done when it comes to pushing film. With that said, I'm hoping somebody can give me very basic instruction. Here's what I'm doing:

Shooting 400 Tri-X
Setting ISO on camera to 400
Camera meters f/4 @ 1/30th

I would like to push the film 2 stops so I don’t need to shoot at such a slow shutter speed.

So do I set the ISO on the camera to 1600 and push 2 stops in development or do I leave the camera’s ISO at 400 and push two stops in development?

Any help would be appreciated.

(I tried a search, but it the results were overwhelming) Thanks!

"Pushing" is just underexposing. The underexposure throws away the lower values. With 'usual' development, the range of densities on the negative winds up being not high enough to print on medium grade paper. Increasing contrast (by increased development) fits the tonal range of the negative to the paper better (but the images still look like crap because the low values are gone.)