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Pushing Acros

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mooseontheloose

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I'm looking to push Acros - not by choice, but because I'm traveling and, although I ordered extra film, I was sent tri-x in 35mm rather than 120, and now I'm screwed because it's too late to order any more film. This is for a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Bhutan, which starts on Friday for me (I'm currently in Thailand). If Acros doesn't push well at 200 or 400, then I guess I'll stick to 35mm for low-light shots. However, if anyone has had success with pushing Acros I'd appreciate any info you can provide - speed, developer, look, any issues....

I usually use Rodinal or D-76, but I also have xtol, and could possibly get HC110, although I've never used it. Most other developers are not available to me in Japan, other than Fuji ones which I assume most people are not familiar with.
 

ath

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I would stick to 35mm where Acros @ 100 is no longer possible.
Never pushed Acros but since its sensitivity is already at the lower end of the 100 gang I would avoid this.
 

Peter Schrager

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although I've never done it the diafine can says acros@200 speed; which I would tend to belieive
sorry it is not available but maybe someone here could send it to you
Best, Peter
 

Klainmeister

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I've pushed it to 200, 400, 800 and even 1600 with mixed results. Pushing to 200 is alright, 400 got poor highlights and shadows with decent grain and anything above that is fairly worthless. D76 did the best job for me. Let me look around and see if I have notes on it, but it can be done to 400 I believe. I feel like I did 1:1 in D76 for 18 minutes or something on that order.
 

Mark Crabtree

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I like the Acros film, but it does not seem like a good candidate for push processing unless you want an extremely high contrast effect without shadow detail. I would be happy if I could get a solid 100 speed out of it.

I am mostly developing it in Xtol, but switch to Acufine when I am trying to get a bit more speed. The Acufine only gives a hint of more shadow detail, but does help keep the highlights under control.
 

K-G

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Take a look at this thread. In posts no. 38 and 42 Thomas Bertilsson describes how he has exposed both Tmax 100 and Acros at 400 ISO and developed them with good results. He seems to know what he is doing.
Regards

Karl-Gustaf

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 

Klainmeister

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The 1:3 seems to be a good candidate. When I developed mine 1:1 in D76 @ 400 it was too contrasty, but for the application is worked hence no more further experimentation. You could shoot some rolls @ 400 and once you return home, shoot a couple around the house and experiment with xtol or D76 to get it dialed.
 
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Xtol 1+1 at 400 actually makes it look a lot like TXP. You may wish to slow down agitation to every two or three minutes to keep highlights in check. Develop longer to compensate, and thus get back some of the shadow detail you lost.
I have nothing but good things to say of my resulting prints from doing this. Test first. Test first. Test first. If you can. Otherwise use Tri-X in 35mm and do the best you can.

I'm sorry about your predicament. It's a situation where you have to make a choice, I guess. Think about Cartier Bresson shooting Tri-X in 35mm, and the larger prints made from those negs are gorgeous. Also consider Salgado. Same thing. Ralph Gibson. Etc.

- Thomas
 
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mooseontheloose

mooseontheloose

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Thanks everyone.

Thomas, just curious, what's a starting point for development time with Acros @400 in Xtol 1+1?

I guess I'll probably shoot most things with tri-x, but for important shots I may double up by shooting the Acros at 400 and see what I get once I get back home.
 
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12-13 minutes for diffusion enlarger printing, agitating every 2 minutes.
This is good for TMax 100 too.
Xtol 1+1 at 68 degrees.
 

ath

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12-13 minutes for diffusion enlarger printing, agitating every 2 minutes.
This is good for TMax 100 too.
Xtol 1+1 at 68 degrees.

That's nearly exactly what i take for 100 ASA with ACROS.... 2 inversions every minute though.
 
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I do ten minutes for EI 100. But it is up to each and everyone to test. There will be variations in lighting conditions, meter accuracy, shutter accuracy, water quality, on and on and on - variables that affect the outcome.

Do your testing.
 

Willie Jan

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I do ten minutes for EI 100. But it is up to each and everyone to test. There will be variations in lighting conditions, meter accuracy, shutter accuracy, water quality, on and on and on - variables that affect the outcome.

Do your testing.

thats the solution. Testing. Measuring between spot and integral meter often differs 1 stop in my situation. So with spot i use IE50 and with an integral meter IE100. My Time for across is 12min (with 1:1:100 pyrocat hd).
 

BetterSense

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I accidentally shot a roll of 120 acros when I thought I had a roll of Tri-X in the camera. I developed in Diafine and the pictures turned out, with an expected lack of shadow detail but otherwise attractive grain and tonality.
 
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mooseontheloose

mooseontheloose

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Thanks everyone.

Hopefully I won't have to do it, as photographing interiors is a big no-no here in Bhutan, and it's super sunny every day. But it's good to know I have the option.
 

Helinophoto

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Personally, I have no problems pushing Acros to 400.
I do *cough*scan*cough* these mostly though, and they look very normal.

To get this photo this gritty and contrasty, I really had to alter the curve after scanning, because I did have details in the shadows and the highlights and it was much flatter looking
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150904562226739&l=1b9a805dea (This is from the annual zombie-walk that took place last weekend over here)

This is 35mm

I used HC-110, Dilution B for 10 minutes for this, I've also tried dilution H for 20 minutes with 120 and those also came out very nice.
Negatives to look a tad overdeveloped though (a bit thick), so maybe 8-9 and 16-18 minutes respectively is better.

If you look furter in the album, you'll see how foma creative 200 asa fared (ei 200), much much darker for some reason (HC-110 dil. B for 3.5 minutes as per MDC)
 
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