Pulled the trigger

[Sirius Glass]

I think that the person with whom you spoke is full of sh!t...

To put it tactfully.

 

[LMNOP]

Anyone know what model to search for with instant film backs? I have Fujifilm FP-100C and I'd love to get it on the back of the Calumet CC401 if possible. I cannot find these on eBay.

 

[shutterfinger]

Anyone know what model to search for with instant film backs? I have Fujifilm FP-100C and I'd love to get it on the back of the Calumet CC401 if possible. I cannot find these on eBay.

Polaroid 545 or 545i instant sheet film holder.

Scanners: the main difference between the Epson V700 and V800 is the V800 has LED light source and the V700 has a cold cathode fluorescent lamp. The V800 will produce a slightly sharper scan.

Developing tanks: FR or Yankee, http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...d=CNS1r4WB68UCFUiPfgodsq8AIw&is=REG&A=details , very similar in design and usage. Leak chemicals easily, difficult to get even development with. Called "slosher" as you agitate by moving the tank side to side, sloshing chemicals out the pour and fill openings.
Copmbi-Plan, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000ALKEH/ . Slow to fill and drain. Film holder not rigid and film may become disloged during processing.
Mod 54, early version has sharp edges that cause scratches and other minor problems. Current version requires a 3 reel Patterson tank Dead Link Removed . Reported a good system. I have not used one. I have used the other tanks I have mentioned in this thread.

Scans: I have 4x5 scans off a Microtek 8700 Pro, both B&W and color that will produce mural size gallery quality prints. The look of a scanned/inkjet print is different from a basic wet print as is other specialty wet prints from basic wet prints. A lot depends on the skill of the person doing the scanning or printing. All can be very good.

Check Epson's clearance center regularly. After 4 weeks of seeing a V700 for $415 and finding no source for a Microtek M2 I bought the V700. I found the software bundle weak for the class of scanner and now somewhat out of date. The V750-M currently in Epson's clearance center for $598 I would have passed on it if that was all that was available.

 

[LMNOP]

Damn, Polaroid 405 holders are well over 100 on eBay. It would be so useful to have that functionality. Anyone looking to sell an instant film holder? I wish fuji still made the 4x5 film, those holders are much cheaper, no surprise.

 

[analoguey]

A darkroom isn't that hard to access -to develop and contact Print 4x5 -until you snag an enlarger. Check out the various Darkroom examples on this Forum or lff. You just need a light blocking mechanism, and you can develop film in trays. Contact Print the same and develop those in trays too!

Also, imho, one should develop ones own film to learn how to process it right and understand the developing & film shooting process better. The saving money part might just be incidental to it.

 

[jacaquarie]

Hello LMNOP

You are receiving good advice, not much I can add. Will make the effort.
I think you will find you will love 4x5, give it time. Here is what works for me.
I use the changing tent for handling film. I do not have the "darkroom", I do have the "dimroom", more on that in a moment. I process film at my kitchen table and sink. I use the sheet film daylite tank. Have been through a few different tanks to find the one(s) that work for me and my style of handing equipment.( my favourite is Combiplan tank) Give it time and you will find your style too. Will admit the changing tent can be a pain but it is what I have and I make it work and I do not miss the full size proper darkroom. My print processing is in the laundry room with trays on the washer and dryer for prints. This is my dim room, Has a window so I work at night. My enlarger is the Bessler 45, the price was right, it works. what more can you ask. Do not get hung up on equipment. My view is it is more important that you create the photographs anyway you can. Have you thought of 4X5 contact prints, a light source and a timer and you are making prints from your negatives you process yourself. By the way the space required does not need to be that large, I have an event I attend and have a utility trailer as the demonstration "darkroom / dimroom" process and printing within a 4 foot by 8 foot area. A product you may want to know about is "rocblock" (may need to check spelling) which is a light blocking liner for curtains and drapes. Sometimes can be found in colours. Also good as the dark cloth for composing on the ground glass.
Make some time and look into the 55 project, they are working to recreate the Polaroid type 55 film and negative. When this happen you will have a print and negative and no darkroom required. the one shot developer/fixer is available from time to time, seems the small batches sell out quickly.
The point of all this is you do not need the lab or even darkroom all you need is the desire to make it happen. Do some research about the earl days of photography and you will find you have it easy.
And the best part of 4X5 or any large format is we are just so cool that anyone else just knows we must be good at this.

The first rule, have fun,
The second rule, keep learning as you are having fun.
the rest are details along the journey.

Arthur

 

[palewin]

LMNOP: Just remember to double check our "free" internet advice! AFAIK, the Polaroid 545 series backs will not work with the Fuji film; the holders were designed for 4x5 Polaroid film, not the smaller Fuji. At one time Fuji made a 4x5 film, but I think those days are gone. There is the Kickstarter project for New55, an improved analogue of Polaroid Type55, which does use the 545 holders, but it is very expensive, and I'm not sure about availability.

I spoke with the Epson rep when the V80xx series of scanners were introduced at the PhotoExpo in NYC. He actually made no claims for increased sharpness over the V7xx series, but told me that Epson changed to the LED technology because they could no longer source all of the components needed for the V7xx scanners. He did praise the new film holders which came with the V8xx because they were both more rigid, and allowed adjustability to obtain better focus accuracy. If cost is an issue, I really think one of the older (V7xx or even 4990) scanners is the best choice.

Since you mentioned that you want to shoot roll film with your 4x5, look for one of the Calumet slide-in roll film holders. I have one and it works nicely with just about any 4x5, sliding into place just like a regular 4x5 holder. Sinar made nicer slide-in holders, but like most things Sinar, you pay a lot extra for the Swiss design and workmanship; the Calumet is much better bang for the buck.

 

[LMNOP]

LMNOP: Just remember to double check our "free" internet advice! AFAIK, the Polaroid 545 series backs will not work with the Fuji film; the holders were designed for 4x5 Polaroid film, not the smaller Fuji. At one time Fuji made a 4x5 film, but I think those days are gone. There is the Kickstarter project for New55, an improved analogue of Polaroid Type55, which does use the 545 holders, but it is very expensive, and I'm not sure about availability.

I spoke with the Epson rep when the V80xx series of scanners were introduced at the PhotoExpo in NYC. He actually made no claims for increased sharpness over the V7xx series, but told me that Epson changed to the LED technology because they could no longer source all of the components needed for the V7xx scanners. He did praise the new film holders which came with the V8xx because they were both more rigid, and allowed adjustability to obtain better focus accuracy. If cost is an issue, I really think one of the older (V7xx or even 4990) scanners is the best choice.

Since you mentioned that you want to shoot roll film with your 4x5, look for one of the Calumet slide-in roll film holders. I have one and it works nicely with just about any 4x5, sliding into place just like a regular 4x5 holder. Sinar made nicer slide-in holders, but like most things Sinar, you pay a lot extra for the Swiss design and workmanship; the Calumet is much better bang for the buck.

Great info! I am looking for V700s at this point, that would be a major upgrade. I am so glad you spoke up about what the rep told you, thanks!

 

[RalphLambrecht]

my suggestions would be get some paper and make paper negatives .. don't buy film yet ..
rate your paper around iso 6 or maybe 12 .. trim the long edge a teeny bit, and practice loading film holders with the red light on
paper is easy to develop in trays so you can see immediately what you did right or wrong ...

if the camera didn't come with it, buy a few film holders and a piece of black cloth ( dark denim if you have a fabric store near you .. or anything will do )
and if you don't have a suitable tripod, look for a tiltall, they are cheap and bult like a tank and can easily hold your camera. i think i paid 100 new from b+h, not sure
what they cost now, that was 30 years ago ...

have fun
john

+1

 

[Jim Jones]

While I use a V700, it offers little advantage over the 2400 it replaced for scanning 4x5 negatives. By now people may be giving or throwing 2400 or 3200 models away. Perhaps the biggest disadvantage might be incompatibility with newer computers. We don't need the latest and best digital editor, either. The Photoshop Elements 7 that came with the V700 does little more than the version 5 that it replaced. I supplement it with free Irfanview for those tasks that Irfanview does faster than perhaps any other program. If drastic editing is required, a 16 bit scanner and editor would be better.

Some LF photographers like me make very few negatives in an outing. For us, tray development is practical. Two ounces of developer used once with constant agitation and discarded is sufficient for one negative in a small tray. Prewash is advisable when developing time is short. It was absolutely necessary when solarizing Tech Pan negatives in Solarol developer.

Stroebel wrote the most comprehensive book on LF cameras. It is available in several editions over many years. Books by Simmons, Stone, and Shaman are also useful. Of course the many books Ansel Adams wrote over several decades are treasured by us old-timers. More comprehensive to today's photographer is Way Beyond Monochrome by Ralph Lambrecht and Chris Woodhouse. It is expensive, and worth the money.

 

[shutterfinger]

Scanner: Epson V500. Epson scan: Professional mode, configuration: no color correction which greys out the adjustment section, 300dpi, 16 bit grayscale, B&W negative. Stouffer 21 step transmission projection step wedge 6x6.


Scanner: Epson V700, Epson scan, same settings and target as with the V500. Both saved as highest quality jpeg, no post editing.

 

[tessar]

LMNOP, You haven't mentioned if your camera came with a case, but if it didn't -- I used to have a CC-401 that came without a case, so I made one as a DIY project.
I went to the best-stocked tool store in town and found a heavy-duty plastic tool box the right size, then made two pllywood inserts fastened to a thicker piece of plywood just far enough apart to fit the collapsed camera body. I cut the bracket (as I call it) to fit snugly against the sides of the tool box. The thicker piece of plywood sits on the bottom of the tool box; the two lighter pieces face up, so the whole assembly sits inside the box like a square-cornered U.
I then cut two half-round openings in the top centre of the bracket sides just deep enough to hold the camera rail steady against two metal strips fastened on top of the bracket in a way that the strips can swing away. The camera hangs upside down, as it does in the dedicated case. Add foam-rubber padding as needed. Lots of room under the rail for accessories and film holders. I wrapped fragile items in my dark cloth.
The tool box I found even had two wheels and a handle to pull! This improvisation worked well for me. A dedicated case is extremely hard to find.

 

[LMNOP]

LMNOP, You haven't mentioned if your camera came with a case, but if it didn't -- I used to have a CC-401 that came without a case, so I made one as a DIY project.
I went to the best-stocked tool store in town and found a heavy-duty plastic tool box the right size, then made two pllywood inserts fastened to a thicker piece of plywood just far enough apart to fit the collapsed camera body. I cut the bracket (as I call it) to fit snugly against the sides of the tool box. The thicker piece of plywood sits on the bottom of the tool box; the two lighter pieces face up, so the whole assembly sits inside the box like a square-cornered U.
I then cut two half-round openings in the top centre of the bracket sides just deep enough to hold the camera rail steady against two metal strips fastened on top of the bracket in a way that the strips can swing away. The camera hangs upside down, as it does in the dedicated case. Add foam-rubber padding as needed. Lots of room under the rail for accessories and film holders. I wrapped fragile items in my dark cloth.
The tool box I found even had two wheels and a handle to pull! This improvisation worked well for me. A dedicated case is extremely hard to find.

Whoa! This is awesome!

The eBay listing said it came with a storage briefcase... I am keeping my expectations low, if there is not a traditional case, I will seek out a similar DIY!

 

[shutterfinger]

I purchased one of these for my Cambo Legend which came without a case.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zeikos-ZE-H...790?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9f80123e
It would not fit any hand tool boxes.